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What's in the workshop this week? Jim's black Final Edition
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Its that time again :) Jim (The Laird) brought his spotless black FE down for new cam tensioners as they are rattling on start up. I'm going to pull the engine and re-seal everything as it has a few leaks, plus a general tidy up and fettling in the engine bay as it's on 180K miles now.
Here's Jim's (left) next to Stephen's (What was in the workshop last week) before it came in to the workshop: http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1553983807 First job on Thursday was to remove the bumper and headlights in preparation for pulling the front end. I left the front panel in place as I needed to move the car off the lift on Friday, but then got back on it today http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1553983807 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1553983807 A small pile of bits starting http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1553983807 >> to today: Split front snubber mount - that's pretty standard so I keep them in stock. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1553983807 So this is how its going to be then? :rolleyes: Two snapped bolts taking the front panel off :( I'll deal with these later. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1553983807 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1553983807 One of the oil cooler bolts in the rad too. This is going to be fun http://www.corradov8.com/pics/banghead.gif I can see a special tool in my future... http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1553983807 A bit grubby under here after 180K miles http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1553983807 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1553983807 We can fix that +++ |
Amazing work +++ that will be one happy owner when its returned!
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Yeah that's it. The chain tensioners use oil pressure to keep the chain tight between the two camshafts on each head. As they wear inside (I think its o-rings) they develop a tendancy to leak away residual oil pressure while the engine isn't running and they lose their push on the chain so it gets loose. When the engine starts again, the inlet cam is pulled so far by the driven exhaust cam, but then when it gets over-centre on a lobe it jumps forward, pushed by the valve springs. It then pulls the chain tight and slaps it on the tensioner pad - that's the noise that makes the rattle. After a few rotations of the engine there is enough oil pressure to tighten the chain and it stops making the noise.
It starts with rattle on cold start, but Jim's had got to the point where it would rattle on hot-start too so the tensioners are losing pressure quite quickly so need changing asap since the slap of the chain obviously doesn't help the life of the plastic pads. I've tried changing the oil retention valves which keep oil in the heads on shutdown but they have no effect. Its oil pressure leaking past the piston in the tensioner that is the problem. I did have an idea about using a thing called an 'Accusump' which is basically an oil pressure accumulator used on race cars. This would collect oil under pressure while the engine is running, store it while it's off, and then release it all when the key is turned. Theoretically this would put pressure in to the tensioners before the engine fires and therefore stop the slap. This would be cheaper than replacing the tensioners (£576 each!!), but wouldn't actually fix the problem of the tensioners bleeding off oil pressure. I think it might actually mask it such that you wouldn't know there was an issue until they bleed so much pressure that the engine has an oil pressure problem. I did see someone post on FB about rebuilding the tensioners with new o-rings which is worth investigating. I can't see how they come apart in a fashion where they can be put back together but I have some dead ones which I can cut in half. At some point we're going to run out of new ones so we need to find a solution of some sort! |
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One more question before getting back on topic with Jim's car. I'm assuming this is why the tensioner pads wear excessively, and why you replace them (although it doesn't resolve the underlying issue)? |
The tensioner pads wear simply because they're made of plastic and are pressing against a steel chain running over them at considerable speed. It's designed obsolescence - almost all of them made it through their ten year warranty and they're now exceeding their 15-year expected lifespan. Audi don't care if they all explode at this point.
The pads are made of nylon 4.6. If they wanted them to last longer, they could have used a different material like UHMW polyethylene, Acetal, even PTFE, and provided an oil feed to the wear surface to further reduce friction. This would have been more expensive though. Nylon 4.6 lasts longer than the warranty so it will do. Once the pads are sufficiently worn, they crack and fall apart whereupon the engine shreds itself. A loose chain slapping on worn pads makes them more likely to shatter, but is not the cause of the wear in the first place. I replace the pads on non-rattly tensioners to avoid them shattering, but the tensioners will still wear out eventually. |
Great work MJ +++
Good to see my car's twin getting some attention :) I need to arrange to get mine down to you some time in the near future for a bit of TLC and a few relatively minor jobs, but mainly for the tensioner pads, even though I have no start-up rattle .... yet! (130K miles). In my ten years of ownership I have always changed the oil far more frequently than is necessary though ... I mean obsessively frequently. Whenever it goes into the garage for anything, I usually ask them to drop the oil again. So sometimes it'll get 3 or more oil changes in a year, even though I'm averaging at just 5K-6K miles annually. I wonder if that's helped the tensioner seals to last a bit longer? Quote:
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Great to see how you are turning back the clock (metaphorically) on Jim's car MJ. Excellent tread.
Jim, I bet you're looking forward to getting back into it again. I know I would be. |
Mark, I just checked if they fit anything else and they are also used in the D3 so we should have supply for another 5 years in theory.
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After my bad experiences of the local Audi indy people in my (relatively) new neck of the woods, it is wonderfully reassuring to have my car in MJ’s capable hands. Well worth the 4 hour drive and a couple of weeks or so without a car. And reading a ‘what’s in the workshop’ write up on your own car is brillaintly exciting!
MJ made me very welcome and we did a reccy with the car on the lift, so there are a couple of other jobs to be done as a result. And I’ll be back at a later date for a rear subframe rebuild. And as an added bonus, I had a short trip in MJ’s car when she gave me a lift to a services to meet up with a friend for a lift home. Even from the passenger seat, you can tell how ‘tight’ MJ’s car is - it’s like a brand new car (which it pretty much is!). And the interior is a beautiful place to be - the red leather and black trim is a very pleasing combination. I can’t wait for the next post - thanks MJ! :) |
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This morning's activities:
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554064154 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554064154 |
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This afternoon was spent removing engine parts and prepping it for cleaning
I think this is where most of the gunge on the lower half of the engine came from http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 Attached to the bracket for the engine stand http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 On the stand http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 Locking tools in http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 Started taking the timing gear off. This is a new one :rolleyes: This is the tensioner roller and you can just see that there is a threaded insert stuck on the bolt. The threaded insert should have stayed in the engine but it appears the thread of the bolt is a bit mashed so it took the insert out with it. This is going to be 'interesting' to repair... http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 Whoever gorrilla'd the tensioner bolt apparently attacked the cam sprockets with a lump hammer too :tuttut: http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 Drained the remaining coolant from the block. Its a good sign that both drains are clear. Oil cooler drain first http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 passenger side drain - this drain is almost always blocked, but on this engine it runs free :) http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 The vac hoses are completely perished so I'll replace those http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 I left the oil draining overnight, ready for tomorrow http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554066018 |
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4 hours of cleaning... :eek3:
I pulled the oil cooler housing off. The plastic pipe had already cracked. That's getting replaced with an aluminium one. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 Yeuch http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 I really don't know why these engines collect sand between the inlet manifold and the head. They all have it, and one has to be extremely careful when taking the manifold off to not get any down the inlet ports http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 Flange cleaned up and the inlet ports protected http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 There was evidence of coolant leakage down the back of the block so I pulled the water pipes off the back of the heads. Just as well I did since one o-ring had turned to fluff and the other was already leaking. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 Cleaned up the valley http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 Breather cover removed - the gasket on this is the source of all the gunge in the valley and also all the oil down the back of the block. There's a little drain hole on the left of the pic where everything that leaks from here escapes down in to the bellhousing :rolleyes: http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 More grub http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 2 gallons of degreaser later... http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554150670 |
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So, this threaded insert for the tensioner roller...
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554151280 I sacrificed a 10mm socket to make a tool to remove the insert from the thread http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554151280 It fits like this http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554151280 The insert came off with a little persuasion http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554151280 Whoever fitted the last belt didn't bother to clean the schmutz out of the thread. They just gorilla'd the bolt in and it got stuck. There's actually no damage to the thread - it just needed cleaning :rolleyes: http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554151280 Made an assembly tool to put it back in the block. It will be held in with Loctite 638 retaining compound http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554151280 Screwed in to the block and permanently bonded with Loctite. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554151280 |
Let’s name and shame, shall we? The “gorillas” who did the last belt change were from AudiTechnik in Glasgow. Thanks guys!
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There's something compellingly voyeuristic in these threads :D
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Chain tensioners.
Since the engine is on the stand I can rotate it 45° so the head is level. This makes the tensioner swap an order of magnitude easier than doing it in the car with the head at 45°. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 Not quite so spotless inside as Stephens! This is fairly normal for a 185K mile engine. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 Removed the first set of cam caps. The bottom left one is removed even though the cam doesn't come out, since this leaves space to swing the tensioner out. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 The cam journals are in perfect condition, despite the gunge http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 Bizarrely, even though the tensioners rattle on startup, the pads in this one are barely worn :Confused: http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 The new tensioner in its box. There really ought to be an angelic choir or fanfare opening this up :ROFL: http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 Ta dah! http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 The passenger side cam is a pain because the roller lifters push it off to one side as it's tightened down http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 This is the culprit http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 Rather than just using the two main caps to pull it down in to the head, I use all four, plus a technique I've developed which I can't photograph with only two arms! http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 Back in place http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 It goes back in with the timing marks slightly off as the lifter pushes it out of position while the tensioner is compressed with its locking tool http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 I mark each bolt as I torque it up. 5Nm then 90°, so two marks on each bolt. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 New oil seals http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 A genuine VW special tool 3366! This compresses the tensioner so it can be removed or inserted http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 With the tensioner locking tool removed the spring pressure pulls the chain tight which pops the cam back in line http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 Cover cleaned up and back on with a new gasket http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554241009 The driver's side is exactly the same procedure but much easier as it isn't trying to open any valves so it just drops back in place. |
Fascinating stuff! +++
I notice the new pads are a different colour to the old ones; are they made of a different material or is that just how they look when they are clean!? |
That's just how they are when they are new :) Same material as far as I can tell, but younger and less brittle obviously. The aftermarket pads are slightly more brown than the new genuine ones but seem to be also the same material.
The old pads in Stephen's are exactly the same colour so I think its more to do with the material ageing than picking up dirt from the oil. |
It’s starting to go back together again. How exciting! :p
Were the old tensioners visibly knackered, or can’t you really tell - apart from the rattle? |
There are no visual clues which ones rattle and which ones don't unfortunately.
I have discovered something interesting though - there is a tiny wire gauze in the oil feed to the tensioner to stop debris getting in. Odd, since the oil filter is much finer, but they do trap debris so they obviously have a purpose. On many of the tensioners I remove, this gauze is either broken or missing, which means it has gone through the tensioner! Now debris or not, a small chunk of stainless wire going through something containing rubber o-rings is not going to do it a lot of good! I have a theory that when this gauze disintegrates, this is what causes the tensioner to start rattling since it trashes the o-rings. On that basis, they may well be better off without the gauze and just take the tiny amount of debris that turns up. I will build an engine up like this in the summer and see what it does long term. Curiously, this is a known issue with the W engines, except in those the gauze apparently ruins the tensioner rather than just making them rattle. It's a $10K job for the W8 Passat at dealer rates! :eek2: Another job for the summer is to build some sort of test rig for the tensioners. I plan to saw the end off one of my trashed heads and just use a couple of cam lobes and a tensioner to see if I can test good/bad/indifferent. That will also be useful if I can figure out how to rebuild them too. |
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These are the two old tensioners. Note the broken gauze on the right hand one. I wonder if it was only this one rattling because it's eaten some stainless steel wire? I might put the left one in another engine and see what happens.
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 Last nights update a little late: The temperature sensor is totally rusted in to its socket. With overheating issues we're changing this as a precaution, plus with it seized in like this it would be a nightmare to change later on with the engine back in. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 It has to be destroyed to get it out http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 The o-ring was totally perished and crusty so just as well we're changing it http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 Socket cleaned up ready for the new sensor http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 Water pipes back on the engine http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 This is my tool for fitting the crankshaft seal. Its a piece of exhaust tube that fits perfectly inside the old seal so it can be used as a drift to push the new seal in. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 The bushing that drives the oil pump is swapped back to front when fitting a new seal so that the seal lip has fresh steel to run on. After 185K miles the rubber seal has worn a noticeable groove in the steel bushing http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 Timing gear all back on http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554411300 |
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Tonight's progress:
I don't know why people say the oil cooler pipe is really difficult. Just turn the engine on it's side :ROFL: The aluminium cooler pipe is fitted to the block here http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 This is the old plastic pipe - split at both o-ring grooves so the o-rings were stopping it leaking for now http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 Oil cooler housing back on http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 I removed and cleaned the oil pump pickup gauze but forgot to take a before pic! It had a few chunks of carbon debris and old silicone sealer in it so I cleaned those out and put it back together http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 Not many people get to see their engine like this :D Its so much easier to do the sump like this though! http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 Cleaning old silicone out of all the bolt holes is most vexing! http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 Sealing flange all cleaned up http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 Sealant applied http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 Bolts torqued and a nice even-ish bead of sealant all round the sump http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 This damn oil sensor! This was leaking because the seal (missing from the pic sorry) was perished but you can't buy the seal on its own - you have to buy a new sensor for £loads :mad: Luckily I had a duff sensor with a good seal in left over from the sump I got from A8parts for Stephen's car so swapped the seal over and put the good sensor back in +++ http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 I subconsciously registered that there was something odd about the oil filter housing when I took it off, but only twigged what it was when I went to put it back. Jim's on the left, a spare of mine on the right. The support structure for the filter is missing! Its not in the old filter which means at some point in the past someone has managed to snap it off when removing the filter and 'not noticed' :tuttut: I sense another call to Maria in my future... http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 One thing that really annoys me about these cartridge filters is that its impossible to fill the filter with oil when changing it. This means on restart the engine is starved of oil pressure for a moment while the pump fills the filter. With the engine upside-down I can pre-fill the filter, so I do :p http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 Back together with my spare filter housing which I shall replace with one from A8parts http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554412281 It'll stay upside down overnight to allow the sump sealer to set completely before refilling with oil. |
Love that, great work.
Mine at 197,000 probably needs the D2 Doctor Platinum service in the near future. |
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The 'valley pan' gasket has been bugging me a while - it's responsible for all the oil under the inlet manifold, but has been on back order. Luckily, it arrived this morning :)
This is the old one - no re-using that! http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554497253 New one in place http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554497253 Cover on http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554497253 The knock sensor plugs disintegrated as I removed them, which is a very common problem. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554497253 New Bosch sensor in place, hiding under the inlet manifold http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554497253 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554497253 The other one is easier to get to http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554497253 The viscous fan bearing was worn out and very noisy. £loads for a new one and also on back order, but luckily I had a low mileage used one in stock http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554497253 Removing the engine from the stand since I don't need to turn it over any more http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554497253 and back on the separating table so I can get to the crank main seal, then it can be reattached to the gearbox http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554497253 |
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I had one fail a few months ago. Fortunately it was the other one, which is much easier to get to, but I bought two new ones and asked the garage to replace both. They replaced the faulty one but decided to leave the other one because they couldn't find it. We guessed that it might be under the inlet manifold but I couldn't find any info or photos confirming it. |
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Fantastic and informative thread MJ +++ At 115k I think that mine needs a thorough look at in the next year. |
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I'll post up some pics and links later. The PF is the same part. |
Also I believe nylon pads get brittle with age in a hot engine oil environment. There are newer type nylons such as Stanyl 46 or Stanyl Diablo which last longer before getting brittle in engine oil. I asked a couple of companies how much it would cost to make a copy of our pads in one of these newer nylons but their minimum order is something like 10,000 units :ROFL:
Another option could be to have replica pads machined out of a block of one of these new nylons, but machining costs are not cheap either. If there is a way to repair old tensioner units that would be amazing. Over £1000 for a pair of new units is a bit much. |
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I am so chuffed to have MJ working on my car! +++ |
Great thread as always +++
I am building a list in my head of all the parts that will need changing preventatively because they are probably already in a bad state. |
The weekend was a complete shambles because of three tiny little bolts to attach the torque converter which stubbornly remained on TPS's shelf instead of coming to the workshop http://www.corradov8.com/pics/banghead.gif
I also ran out of degreaser on Saturday so there was nothing more I could do at that point. Now I have those little bolts, and more degreaser so I can make some more progress +++ |
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It's always the smallest things that cause the biggest headaches :ROFL: |
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I would be tempted to give it a go, considering that original part can last close to 200k miles, 20 years, Chinese should be good for 10k doing 2k per year. If the bearing fails than it can be changed for a better one. It's not a safety critical part like tyres or brakes or even wheel bearing. And not too much work involved changing it if doing myself. |
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This is the fan bearing as it comes from Audi:
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554755500 The hub can be pressed out, but the bearing housing and flange are one single piece: http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554755500 This is £13, ebay listing here http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554755500 Its listed as Audi 100 & VW LT, but the part number is in the description which is how I found it. With this one the flange and bearing are separate so the bearing can be changed.The holes are a bit off-centre, but they're close enough for it to bolt in to the bracket. No idea how long the cheap Chinesium bearing would last, but I guess for low-mileage D2s it may well be acceptable for 1/20th of the price of a genuine one! I may well buy a few and a few SKF bearings to go with them, then I have good ones ready to go if needed +++ |
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Some work from the weekend - fitting the new crank rear main seal. The end of the crank was pretty crusty
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 Cleaned it up with a wire brush in the dremel http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 The new seal comes with an interesting plastic sleeve which fits over the end of the crank to allow the seal to slide on without damaging it, similar to what I do with the plastic bag for the CV boot http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 Push the seal in thus, then pull the plastic sleeve out http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 Drive plate back on with new bolts http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 Roll the engine and gearbox back together. With the machine, I can literally pop them together with finger and thumb :cool: http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 Its at this point I got stuck because the bolts to attach the torque converter were still sitting on the shelf at TPS http://www.corradov8.com/pics/banghead.gif I managed a couple more jobs. Ready for the inlet manifold, but I forgot to take a pic of the manifold back on http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 The header tank hose is a little worse for wear. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 Unfortunately we can't get these any more so mitigation is the only option. I covered it in some high-temperature heat-shrink sleeving. I'll form this to shape better when its installed. The sleeving shrinks at 200+ degrees so it's quite happy at coolant temperatures, and it will protect the hose from any more damage. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 The rest of the coolant hoses installed http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 And now today's work. The missing bolts arrived this morning. You can see why I got stuck without them! http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 Torque to 85Nm through the starter hole! http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 The crank is held still with the breaker bar while tightening the drive plate. The crank locking pin can't be used for this job because there are three bolts so the engine has to be rotated to specific points http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 Bosch FGR6KQE spark plugs - exactly what the factory fitted but without the Audi logo and 1/3 the price :p How many mechanics use a torque wrench on spark plugs, or even bother to read the torque specification on the box? One - me! I am amazed every time I take an engine apart how completely randomly tight or not the plugs are. Some are gorilla'd in, some are only hand-tight! Its really not that hard to do it properly :rolleyes: 28Nm in case you need to know http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 Only one picture for a couple of hours work, but I degreased and cleaned up the wiring harness and put that back on the engine, along with the starter motor, alternator and engine mounts. Its pretty much ready to go back on the subframe tomorrow +++ http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1554756016 |
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