Yet another due to the box.
 

I've been having issues getting it to find drive in reverse from cold, will engauge but is sluggish to move.
Through the local VW forum I've been able to get an Audi mech to check things out and confirm my suspicions.
He said that it sounds very much like the last clutch assy in the box and that I'll need either a recon or a replacement.

So, seeing as the car is only worth about the 3k mark I cant see any point on going down this route, not with it sitting at 148k.
What else is round the corner in repair bills???

Any suggestions on who would want to buy it for a low price and break it?
Still drives and no errors came up on the box codes.

Cheers.

Now going to have a good few beers to say farewell to the uber barge :(

Steve

it saddens me every time i hear of another d2 coming off the road how much and what is the car tell us a bit about it

If it is worth 3k then it might make sense to repair it for 2k rather then scrap it for £500 and you would be sure it will last fairly long time and there are not much other common expensive problems so it should serve you fair while without to much of additional costs.

Mine is not worth then 2.5k and if gearbox was to fail it would get a manual conversion.

I might be interested Steve, depends on how much you want, model and year.

The internal fan has also given up the will to live (thanks being to the solar sun roof) headlight level sensor is broken, there is also an issue with the parking sensors, they have not worked since the timing belt replacement last year.


It's a year 2000 D2 S8 and here's the code listing from the book.

E0A = No special edition
4UF = Drivers and front passenger air bag with front passenger air bag deactivation
6XL = Exterior mirrors: with memory function, automatically dimming, electrically foldable/adjustable/heated
5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex
6TS = Right exterior mirror: aspherical, large viewing field
1KW = Disc brakes, rear
J1G = Battery 450 A (92 Ah)
1ZL = Disc brakes, front
4LA = Without controls
1AT = Electronic stabilization program (ESP)
1BD = Suspension/shock absorption for special sports design
3FR = Electric sliding/pop-up solar sunroof with automatic pre-selection
5MW = Decorative inserts, dark myrtle wood
7X2 = Park distance control, front and rear
F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment
0L2 = Electric throttle actuation
8GT = Compact alternator 90 - 150A
0G7 = Tiptronic
0YV = Weight range 20 installation control only, no requirement forecast
0JL = Weight category front axle weight range 11
T7S = 8-cylinder gasoline engine 4.2 L unit 077.2 (aluminum)
8EC = Bi-functional headlight with gas discharge lamp, for driving on the left
U0L = Instrument insert with tachometer clock and mph speedometer
X2B = National sales program Great Britain
1N1 = Power steering
2ZP = Leather trimmed sports steering wheel for air bag system with tiptronic and "S" badge
3HA = Without leather parts scope
8Q3 = Automatic headlight-range adjustment dynamic (self-adjusting while driving)
8Z5 = Not hot country
M8G = 8-cyl. gasoline eng. 4.2 L/265 kW V8 40Vcamshaft adjust. w/o cyl. cutout
7Q2 = Navigation system with color screen
C9T = Alloy wheels 8J x 18
7K0 = Without tire pressure warning light
4X4 = Side air bag, front and rear with curtain air bag
3L4 = Electric seat adjustment for both front seats, drivers seat with memory system
4KP = Side and rear windows, acoustic glass
3Y5 = Electrically operated roll-up sun screenfor rear window and mechanically operated for side windows
4K4 = Radio remote controlled central locking
5D1 = Carrier frequency 433.92 MHz-434.42 Mhz
1SA = Without additional engine guard
5Z0 = Without separate power seats rear
Q1D = Sports front seats
4GP = Windshield in heat-insulating glass withsunshield and viewing window for vehicleidentification number



I need a car as when I'm woring in the office I have a 60 mile round trip, so getting things converted or worked on is going to be an issue. It's already been a royal PITA and I'm on time off just now, going back in the office on Tuesday and I'm looking to collect the car in the next couple of days so I can at least get about.
I know it's not the best thing to do but I just cant see the point on spending more that the car is worth to fix it.


I'm also looking to see if I can get a trade in against another car, just hope they are quite busy the day I go in and dont take it for a drive.

I had the same thoughts with mine back in May/June time, sold my 2000 4.2 Sport with a broken gearbox for £1,400 to a Polish scrap merchant.

And believe me, I am sitting here still reading the A8 forums, wishing I had spent the 2,150 on a replacement box. Sure, it would have been worth 3k tops, but I couldn't have replaced it for 3k, and then I'd have had a sorted A8 with a good gearbox.

Sure things go wrong, but it's the same for all car - I replaced mine with a Boxster, which has no major problems, but plenty of 'perfectionist' niggles.

Interesting that they are specific about the xenons for driving on left

8EC = Bi-functional headlight with gas discharge lamp, for driving on the left


Kind of puts the mockers on the claims that our lights do not need to be adjusted for driving abroad :Confused:

A recent cracked windscreen [€800] led me to investigate the scrapping option. I'm under the impression that my D2 is worth around £1000 as aluminium scrap, plus if broken a few goodies such as rear blinds, rear heated seats, Bose etc. Wheels might be worth refurbing. I drove it around pondering but in the end I couldn't scrap it so nice shiny windscreen for me. Now needing a new set of heater plugs in addition to the new turbo hose I had to fit. Cold cash should have led me to scrap it and buy a Golf.....

I did exactly that sarg, decided that better the devil you know when mine went last year and plumped for the VAG service exchange box on the basis that if youre spending that kind of money then you basically get a new box, torque converter TCU etc etc - it even came with the oil pre-loaded. The warranty was unlimited mileage for 2 years (which for me is 8-10k lol) but I intend to get the gearbox oil flushed every 25000 miles from the start which should keep her sweet.

When I get it back from the mechanic I'm going to look at a 53 plate A3 3.2 quattro that's in a local Audi dealer for 7k.
I'll see what they offer on a trade and take it from there.