Fitting New Radiator
 

I've had a small leak in my radiator for a while now, but it hasn't been a real issue as the leak is at the very top of the radiator, so only leaks when the engine gets hot. I'm considering getting a new one and fitting it myself :eek:

I've read through the relevant section in the Tech Dump and it seems reasonable enough to do. My question relates to how to fill the system after the radiator has been fitted. The PDF talks about using some specialised VAG tools for filling it. Is this really necessary or can you get away with just filling it up through the expansion tank and running the engine for short bursts to pump it through the system?

I'll have a look at it for real tomorrow whilst checking the vacuum lines to see if it is as easy as described.

Each time I've drained and refilled mine, all I did is open the bleed screws and refill via the expansion tank. First without the engine running, then with, topping up until the level no longer drops. I usually set the cabin heating to max and rev the engine a little too, continuously checking the the level. I then go for a short drive and check the level again (and check a few more times for the next few days). Not sure if that's the correct way, but that's what's always worked for me.

The 2 bleed screws are to the rear right of the engine. Use a large flat blade screwdriver and be gentle with them - they're easily broken.

Cheers Mark. I'll have a look for those bleed screws as well tomorrow. Your procedure is pretty close to what's in the tech dump PDF. Just have to decide when I need to do it, but it will definitely not be before the annual meet.

Likewise what Mark said. The D2 fills fine like that. Give the bleed screws a squirt of WD40 before you undo them and use a nice big screwdriver that is a good fit in the slot.

Also I'd recommend replacing the four rubber bushes which support the radiator. By now they're probably seized in place so you'll likely destroy them getting them out, and they'll be getting a bit soggy anyway. Upper two are 441121273L, lower two are 441121273K. Etka says about £15 each, although I think the upper supersedes to a cheaper version.

This is doable job.

I replaced radiator and aircon condenser in front of radiator without significant mechanical experience.

Two more things from me:

1. Be careful with two aluminium pipes at the bottom of aircon condenser. They are aluminium and very easy to damage. If you bend them they'll probably develop a leak and pipework to condenser will need to be replaced. Because the junction between pipework and aircon condenser will be diffusion/rust "welded" you will probably need to replace aircon condenser. So be careful.

2. After you swapped radiator you will be installing temperature sensor to your new radiator. There is an o-ring for that sensor and I'll advise to change it. There are two other o-rings where gearbox cooling pipes connect with radiator. Renew those as well. When you connect two main coolant hoses to your new radiator it they may still leak, so I'd suggest to use a bit of Hylomar BLUE universal gasket and jointing compound on the nozzle that goes into the hose. Make sure you use "blue" variety of the product since it is non-permanent.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221156317650
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXiVZIBoHL0

Use only genuine Audi radiator.

Sounds like I might need to some more homework on this and check around for prices. It's better knowing now that something like the aircon condenser could cause problems, rather than when I'm stripping the car down. +++

And I forgot to check the location of the bleed screws whilst I was doing other stuff. Oh well, something else to do tomorrow. :)

You can just about see them in a photo I posted in the 'Getting ready for the Annual Meet' thread earlier. They're here, at the top of the two hoses:




http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1495574756

Attachment 16138

Perfect. Thanks +++

You can change the rad without disconnecting the AC. It can be swung out of the way without damaging the hoses the same as you would doing the timing belt. If it ain't broke...

I used Nissens parts when I replaced both the rad and AC condenser on mine. Supposedly decent quality European parts, but the fitment was awful! A genuine radiator is about £500 I think so I'll be searching for a better aftermarket option when its time to do the FE.

I hope you're not suggesting that I tackle this job next! :eek::D

£639 RRP for a Valeo one was the most expensive I saw. Needless to say I shall be browsing the more 'economical' brands come the time. :)