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-   -   Clarification of 'Chassis No' for Parts (https://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=12728)

steamship 18th February 2017 09:53 PM

Clarification of 'Chassis No' for Parts
 
Probably a daft question, but just need confirmation before I spend some money.

Was looking at some suspension parts and it says on them 'Chassis no to 4D-X-005 500'. There are also similar ones that say 'Chassis no from 4D-X-005 500'.

Does this come from the VIN number of the car, with it being the relevant last six digits, or what? My VIN is WAUZZZ4D92N002072.

Ameiseuk 19th February 2017 05:39 AM

I've had similar issues when ordering bits for the rebuild.
Always just worked on the last 4 digits - never had a problem

ainarssems 19th February 2017 06:56 AM

My understanding is that X is important as well as it is model year where X stand for 1999.

For example my VIN is WAUZZZ 4D Z W N 002603 with relevant bits in bold. So I am looking at W first, as it is before X in alphabet I know it falls in up to X-005550 category, if I had Y, 1 or 2 I would know it falls in after category, I would only look at numbers if it had X as the letter. You can ignore the N in the middle as it is the factory where it was made, N is for Neckarsulm, Germany. The W in mine shows that it is 1998 model although it was actually manufactured late in 1997.

steamship 19th February 2017 11:23 AM

Cheers fellas.

It appears mine then fails in both scenarios :-(

I'm quite surprised by how much the front suspension changed. The kit I need is apparently this one and the one I was eying up is this one

I was thinking that if I changed the whole lot it would be okay, but from the pictures alone, there are significant changes to the design. Maybe I should take a wheel off and see exactly what type I've got, just to be sure, to be sure.

MikkiJayne 19th February 2017 12:29 PM

Yours is the 'Chassis no from 4D-X-005 500' set because your is model year 2: WAUZZZ4D92N002072. The actual number becomes irrelevant at that point.

The only difference between those two kits is the size of the tapered pin on the lower front arm (check the 'Details' tab). They have photographed some of the arms as a mirror image in the two different kits which makes them look different when they aren't.

The steel uprights (PF, and FL with 20s) have the large pin (Meyle kit 116 050 0030/HD with lower arm 116 050 8228/HD) and the alloy uprights (FL) have the small pin (Meyle kit 116 050 0041/HD with lower arm 116 050 0031/HD). A 2001 will have alloy uprights so you need the latter +++

steamship 19th February 2017 01:39 PM

Cheers MJ.

That's cleared that confusion up for me. :Confused:

Now I must go and lie down as my bank account has just suffered an abnormal liberation of funds. :eek:

David's8 19th February 2017 01:50 PM

But just be aware that my 2002 car (currently fitted with 18" wheels) was actually specced for 20" at the factory and hence had steel uprights requiring the bigger tapered fitting. I ended up ordering the wrong ones to start with....... See the thread here: (page 4 is the key section). +++

steamship 19th February 2017 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David's8 (Post 124880)
But just be aware that my 2002 car (currently fitted with 18" wheels) was actually specced for 20" at the factory and hence had steel uprights requiring the bigger tapered fitting. I ended up ordering the wrong ones to start with....... See the thread here: (page 4 is the key section). +++

Cheers David. I remember reading that thread. Was out earlier checking mine against the photos and still couldn't be 100% certain, but mine was a poverty spec car (bar the heated screen) and definitely has the aluminium uprights.

Ameiseuk 20th February 2017 05:52 AM

Think I've just been lucky and the right parts have turned up!

steamship 6th March 2017 01:08 PM

Now that I have my shiny new suspension kit, I've just printed off the instructions on Audipages on the procedure for changing them, and it raises another question.

Whilst I'm getting this done, should I also replace the front shock absorbers and springs at the same time? I replaced the front brake pads yesterday and had a good nosey at the suspension bushes, and am amazed by how quickly they deteriorated from the last MOT, as every single one of them on both sides are knackered. I've had a look at the shocks and there is no sign of weepage, but how can you check these to see if they're past it?

I suppose if I replace the front shocks and springs, then would it also be advisable to replace the rear ones as well?


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