Ok gearbox stuff - how to change all the output seals on a 5HP24a or 5HP19FLA.

These are what we need - same parts for either gearbox:

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean/gearbox/seals1.jpg

01V 409 399 front right
01L 409 399 front left
018 409 399B rear for non-updated flange
SKF 6007C3 bearing from Simply Bearings

If you have the updated flange, the rear seal is 01V 409 399A. This is the difference between the two (018 on the left):

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean/gearbox/seals2.jpg

As we know, it doesn't seem to make much difference which you have - they both leak eventually. Given that the updated flange is £250-odd, fit the seal to suit the flange you have.

This one has been leaking for a while!

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox10.jpg

The flange just unbolts with a T40 torx and slides out. It might need some percussive encouragement! Covered in baked-on oil!

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox11.jpg

The rear seal is pretty simple - pop it out, press the new one in, bolt the flange back in and top up with oil.

The front right seal is much the same - a T40 bolt in the middle and it slides out.

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox24.jpg

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean...x/gearbox1.jpg

Pop the seal out

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox21.jpg

Press the new one in

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox22.jpg

Use a couple of bolts and a bar to hold the flange still - this works for the rear one too.

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox23.jpg

The left seal is a little more involved. It comes out with the bearing housing and a shaft which goes through the gearbox to the diff. Remove three T40 bolts and it will push itself out as there is a spring in the end. If you did the right side first, most of the oil will already have drained out.

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean...x/gearbox2.jpg

This is the shaft assembly

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean...x/gearbox3.jpg

There's a circlip to remove to get the shaft out

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean...x/gearbox4.jpg

You could press this out, but I don't actually have a press so I use a vice and a BFH :D With the alloy mounting flange sitting on the vice jaws and the steel output flange between the jaws, a good whack on the end with the BFH will have the shaft out in a moment.

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean...x/gearbox5.jpg

Both parts separated:

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean...x/gearbox6.jpg

Clean the oil off the shaft and stick it in the freezer. More on that in a bit.

Now you can get to the oil seal and pop that out

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean...x/gearbox7.jpg

Drift the bearing out

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean...x/gearbox8.jpg

The original bearing is an SKF 6007C3. 6007 is a standard size. C3 has larger internal clearances to allow operation at high speed / temperature - perfect for gearboxes.

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean...x/gearbox9.jpg

Clean up the housing in the parts washer, then press the new oil seal in

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox12.jpg

Flip it over and press the bearing in. This taps in easily with a rubber hammer.

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox14.jpg

Speedo sensor back in the housing, and the shaft nice and cold (I left it for 2 hours while I did some other jobs) and its ready to reassemble

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox17.jpg

I forgot to get a pic of the next bit, but with the bearing side down & sitting on the vice, put the shaft back in and with a bit of BFH action it drops back in to the bearing. With the shaft nice and cold it takes much less effort to get it back in than was required to get it out. You could of course use a press instead of a BFH :p

This is with it pressed back in

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox18.jpg

Circlip back on and the assembly is complete again

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox19.jpg

Bolt it back in to the gearbox and its done +++

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/h10ean.../gearbox20.jpg

I'll re-fill both diffs with oil once its attached to the engine & gearbox jig so its properly level.

Since the gearbox is working nicely, the sump isn't leaking, and the ATF is in good condition, we're leaving that alone for now. I'll just top it up once everything is back together and a full fluid change can be a job for the sucky-pumpy-squirty machine at some point in the future.

nice work (as usual!)
dave

Excellent write up

Excellent write-up Mikki! Just the info I was looking for. How do you know if you have an updated flange? I'd like to know if I also need to get that rear seal.

The 01 just started leaving trails of nasty brown oil on the ground. I popped it up on ramps, and it's a mess down there. It looks like it's time to do BOTH sides. Fun.

Do you recommend doing the shaft bearing at the same time? From the brief reading I've done so far, It's recommended to do CV boots, but I'm wondering what other items would be recommended while doing the flange seals.

These days I just keep the standard seal in, and forget about the updated version. The update makes no difference to the life of the seal. You can't tell whether you have the updated version without taking the flange out, so unless you can get both seals on sale-or-return just get the original since that works with either flange.

I always change the bearing as a matter of course because its cheap and has to come out to do the seal anyway. I see maybe 10% of them which don't need changing.

I don't change CV boots unless they actually need it. Worth noting you don't have to take the suspension apart to get the front shafts out. Take the inner CV heat shield off and with an assistant to hold the steering on full lock, you can move the inner joint forward slightly and then get the outer joint out of the hub past the brake caliper.

Good info! So, you're saying that one of the axles has to be removed from the spindle to get enough clearance...that means removing the axle bolt that holds it to the spindle. Do you know if the bolt can be reused? Or should I add a new bolt to my parts list?

I hope you don't mind me picking your brain about one last thing....the seal quality. Is there a brand that is recommended or to stay away from? For both front left and right seals, I see OEM VW/Audi, ZF, and SKF. I only see OEM, DPH, and Rein for the rear flange seal.

Right hand side you could possibly do by just moving the shaft. I haven't tried it since its easy enough to get the shaft out. Left hand side the shaft definitely has to come out. I reuse the bolts a couple of times - technically they are stretch bolts, but they don't seem to stretch by very much, and 'enough torque to bend a 3' bar' appears to be enough to hold them in.

I don't know about aftermarket seals - I only use the genuine ones, for now. When they run out I may have to look at alternatives.

Most excellent.

Thanks for the input!!!! A little surprised with the OEM VW prices for the seals. I'm looking at about USD 180 for seals alone. I wasn't expecting to pay the domestic car parts prices I pay for my tbirds, but even the OEM BMW output flange seals for my 8 series are only 20 USD a piece....yep, the CSi decided to sprout a leaky diff, too. How lucky am I!!! :mad:

But you gotta pay to play! And I do love to drive this beast.