3.0 TDI Poly-V Belt & Tensioner Replacement
 

Well folks, idle has sounded a bit noisier than usual outside of the car the last few days. I looked under the bonnet and saw that something had leaked at the front and was splatted around by the poly v belt. It didn't smell of coolant or oil, so jet washed it all off and went to work. Upon arriving, same again. Not coolant, not water pump, seems to be the belt tensioner has blown and it's damper oil leaked everywhere, but not 100% sure, so will clean off again tonight.

New belt ordered.. Was £10 this morning, now £18:D
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FC4L774/

Will order new tensioner when I'm a bit more sure...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391298142750
Never heard of them, but INA is the OE and they make them for all the more expensive brands such as SKF, Gates, Audi, Meyle, FEBI etc...

Has anyone else changed the belt and or tensioner on a 3.0TDI? and if so any advice?
I have the Audi PDF but not sure whether the front end really needs moving forward to lock carrier forward position etc...

Few months back I did all the belts, stat, pump... everything so it's sorted for a few years. Used INA as they are quality components. I'm sure a few others will vouch for INA.

I know it's a different engine but I removed the front for unobstructed working. Not sure on the space available between the rad and the engine on the 3.0tdi, but would think it's possible with lock carriers.

http://i.imgur.com/OQTPR8U.jpg

Thanks Matty, looks easy to do with the front off, but getting it off would be beyond my patience. I cancelled the belt and got a more comprehensive INA kit with idler pullies. I also kept hot pressure washing the oil off the belts and pullies before every journey and it has ceased (stays clean) so more convinced it was damper oil and it is now empty.

INA is OE. A lot of the time the INA parts have the Audi part number ground or machined off but are otherwise identical - timing belt damper for the 40V V8 for example. I've even had parts from TPS come in INA boxes with just an Audi part number sticker on the box!

Thanks MJ - Still trying to order the parts, motor factor sellers on ebay and amazon have backed out twice! I'll get there in the end and hope to do during August.
There are two versions of all the parts: Belt, tensioner, idler 1 & idler 2
and they changed in late 2006 and then reverted back to original part no.s in mid-2007.

Will keep an eye on this thread as I think I will get mine done as well as precautionary measure as my one has 120k on the speedo. +++
NB can you not do it with bumper in situ?

I'm going to try! Although I am a horn down, so ought to take bumper off and do that. In the past, I ride the belts on with a small wedge of wet kitchen roll to hold it half on and flick the starter over - the tensioner has enough 'give' to allow this.

Got it done this week. Removed bumper, put in lock carrier forward position.
Audi PDF's from this site invaluable.
Gave it all a good clean and fitted new tensioner and belt.
Once access was gained, it was quite a doddle and not at all hard to get the belt onto plulleys compared to other cars I have done.
T60 torx socket is the only tool I had to buy.
I also replaced the snub mount (torque reaction buffer) as it was crumbling and only £5 from ECP. I was also lost the high tone on my fanfare a couple of years ago, so ordered a used one off ebay that was dud, so got a second one from site sponsors and that one works.
Squeeky belt noise gone, so happy.
For reference, the old belt had nearly 260,000 miles on it and was perfectly serviceable, as were the bearings on all idler pulleys, waterpump and driven ancillaries, smooth free turning and virtually no endplay or slop. I only replaced the belt as it was contaminated and coming off anyway. I would not recommend doing the belt as a precaution but just visually inspect it annually. Also swapped Xenon ballasts over as one light is brighter than the other despite new bulbs. Have not tested yet.

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I also took the oppurtunity of the lights being out of the wings to remove the oxidided yellow and pitted coating. Not sure whether to add a coat of PU clearcoat,

Good work +++

My S4 had it's headlights regularly polished after removing the original surface due to stone chipping and wear and tear, they would discolour over a period of a few months and after 6 be visibly yellow! So I sanded them back, used a rattle can of clear (Halfords own) and applied a few coats. Since then, touch wood, have remained crystal clear since +++

Thanks chap, before you clearcoat - do you leave the lights fine matt after sanding or buffed to a gloss finish?