Towbar fitment: fouling LPG tank in spare wheel well??
Hi All,
Thanks for following what may be the most boring posts on the forum. Other folks are fettling V10s, sorting gearboxes, surgically cleaning paintwork... :o And I want advice on towbars.... :ROFL: But hey! That is my take on the A8, a towcar that isn't a truck with a diesel engine, something that I want to drive when I am not dragging a caravan! +++ Soooooo, I have the offer of two towbars, one from our Sponsors at a very reasonable but still £££ (£200 as it "just needs a bit of work", genuine AUDI), or £50 from a forum user (copy, not tasty quick detach). Before I decide I would appreciate the experience / knowledge of forum members:- does the towbar fitment goes anywhere near the spare-wheel well (and my toroidal LPG tank)?? :tuttut: If it does that might just delay my purchase: would have to go to an LPG specialist to get the tank off then they may as well fit the towbar. Place in Doncaster seemed very capable but they do need paying.... :-( Thoughts please? Want to get this towbar thing off the Forum so I can talk about overtaking the two cars and a bus as I knew they would slow for my favourite corner on the A169 coming back from Robin Hoods Bay.... Robert |
The beauty of the genuine one is that it should slide right in with no cutting anywhere, so your spare wheel well is safe.
The aftermarket one is a bit more of a lottery. They usually need the bumper cutting, but shouldn't need to go into the wheel well. The genuine one is fully removable and invisible when removed. I'd never fit non genuine personally, and I'd never buy a car that's had a none genuine one fitted as it shows clear signs of budget spend on a flagship car +++ |
I would agree with IT over the oem vs aftermarket from a fitting point of view.
I would also add in a point about liability, if an aftermarket bar fails allowing the prized caravan to detatch and cause goodness what carnage, you're likely to be on your own. At least with oem from a reputable source like our forum sponsor, you should have a chance should the unforseen occur. |
You do have to cut the rear undertray to clear the socket for the swan neck and the electrics, but certainly not the wheel well.
I have noticed there is a difference between the swan neck on early and late versions, I think changing at the point where the bumpers became two-piece. I had a factory bar on my '99, and I have just put the same bar on my 02 but the swan neck doesn't clear the bottom of the bumper. I'm going to have to cut a slot about 2" deep to clear it properly. Having also seen a proper 02 factory bar, the swan neck is a different shape, obviously to clear the later bumper. So, having waited a year for the unobtanium towbar in the first place I now have to find a new swan neck for it, or hack up my bumper which will be visible when the bar isn't in :( If there is a genuine bar available, buy it, especially if its that cheap. Having fitted many different bars in my time, the factory (Westfalia) bar for the D2 is a no-brainer for ease of fitment and quality. |
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Now, with regard to which one to go for, I'm afraid that's still your decision. If you check out the following link, it will show some photos of the westfalia towbar. The post after that, by Dezzy, shows the A8 with the bumper removed: http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showpost....22&postcount=5 Just below the corner of the boot, you'll see three bolt holes. This is where the bumper piston attaches. This is part of the main chassis, onto which the towbar is secured. Mine wasn't OEM, but is secured by three bolts on either side. Would assume the OEM one was secured the same way. I didn't have to cut the bottom of the bumper, although there is a large piece of plastic underneath, to the right of the spare wheel well that needed trimmed to allow for the neck of the towbar. Since fitting it, I have towed several tons of concrete up lanes and through building sites and not had any issues. Even had to tow my brother home in his BMW (spit) recently, and still not managed to take the shins off myself walking past. |
Depends what you want for sure. Personally I think 200 notes for a tow bar that needs work is over priced, 50 sounds much more like it and you can buy another bumper with the change even if you have to cut yours.
The tow bar I fitted to the "Traders 8" wasn't removable but that said it was only 2 bolts that held the bar to the bracket under the car, so if you did want to take it off its 10 mins max. I lost the plastic under tray at speed as I had to cut it to fit the kit, it was about 2 months after fitting and I didn't worry about it. But if you spend a lot of time looking under the back bumper you might want to have a better fix. |
I fitted my AutoHak bar myself.
Very straight forward, very strong build and strong mounting points on the car. No cuts or intrusions into the boot space. Quote:
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I bought AutoHak as it was the only viable option here at the time. The hitch receiver is a bit of a pain hanging down in the breeze (hits curbs on occasion in the S8), but the construction of the bar is excellent and plenty strong enough to rescue vehicles that get stuck on our steep gravel driveway. It is rated to the factory spec of 2400kg, but the ball down load is only about 120kg though (5% instead of 10% - but so is the factory bar), so if you're towing a caravan get either a light one, or a tandem. Quote:
So what's the difference between a FL and PFL rear bar? Quote:
So the liability is the same factory, or non-factory... |
If I need to tow something I'd go and buy towing vehicle. The one which is disposable.
There are multiple issues by towing something with rare & premium car. |
And Fonally Folks!
Hi,
I bought the copy towbar and saved enough to buy 60 % of a Mackies gearbox oil change or lots of Autogas! :love: Thanks for honest comments, I guess my 3.7 will never be one of the Concours examples that are so amazing but I can afford to drive it 500 miles in 2 days and still eat! (Grimsby to Leeds desk job tomorrow...). +++ Robert |
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