Crankshaft ,belt etc replacement
 

As part of winter maintenance I'm replacing the crankshaft seal, belt and,tensioner pulley i have front stripped and am adding this short post as it may ( or may not) help others as I have gathered a lot of information and benefited from the forum and I wouldn't have been able to do this job or others myself without the forum .

I don't have a lift so I jacked car at front ( select Jack mode) and put stands in at front cill points ,removed front wheels and slide wheels cw cardboard under car just as a back up to stands
Removed front wheel liners then the 3 nuts per side to release front bumper plus row of screws on top ( 2 screws hiding under 2 pieces of foam ) ( i removed grills prior to this ) carefully pull bumper out at both sides to release side brackets ( my passenger side one was broken) only headlight washer pipe and 1 plug for foglights to disconnect, I used a 6 mm bolt to plug washer pipe and tied it up to front of car and then moved bumper totally away ,I marked position of cross member ( don't know if it matters or not) then removed the 2 bolts ,striped the horn brackets of and set them up on top just ,then removed the passenger side cross member bracket ,4 bolts and a spring clip ,again i marked position, and lifted cross member off .
I then measured height of rad frame from ground and found a couple of old wooden drums the correct height and cut 2 timber support legs and positioned the drums at front of car ,removed the 2 plastic plugs on top of the front locking panel that push down into the rubber bushings in the rad frame ,disconnected the electrics plug on bottom of drivers side in the rad frame ( i broke the clip inside the plug ,I do not like the clips inside the plugs in general ) and the large coolant hose on drivers side at the engine, ( I had the air box out for this)I cable tidied a piece of a strong plastic bag over engine coolant port to reduce coolant loose ,there is also a metal pipe fixed to the bottom of the rad by 2 screws , (I removed screws ) very gently and carefully move rad frame forward at the top and check for any pipes ,wiring looms etc that need uncliped then lift rad frame up to remove it from bottom rubber bushings ,again carefully move drivers side of rad frame away from car ,whilst watching the 2 ridge air con pipes which are attached to to rad on the bottom passenger side ( there is flexible pipes which attach to the ridge ones which will allow movement) these are the big risk item as it these are cracked ac gas will be lost, I then fixed the 2 timber props with cable ties to steady frame and used a short piece of pipe to prop between locking panel and frame
I then took a pic of belt route etc ,removed tensioner ( 2 bolts) as adjuster was seized and removed belt ,only then discovered that the idler pulley had a noise in the bearing ( new one ordered tps) .removed the 8 bolts from the crank pulley ,( marked it ist ) and gently levered it off with a screwdriver,it came off nice and easily,gave the area a clean and the existing seal isn't leaking but I'm going to change it anyway (pics attached so far )

Couldn't figure out what you were trying to hide in that first picture... until I read the writeup. Nice cosy roomy garage to work in.

I even bought myself a heater at the start of this winter ,I had visions of something falling against the rad and damaging the fins so I thought the cardboard would be a good plan

Job finished today,all went well and was very straight forward ,rad and everything went back together with out any hitchs ,didn't fit the bumper yet as I might do a couple of other jobs now as well

No bother to you Keith keep up the good work getting it ready for me to take it for a good run.

Excellent thread and thanks for the update +++

We,ll have to wait until the good weather comes and we get vaccine Trevor then we could go to Mondelo park to see if she's as good she should be