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-   -   UPGRADE: Chrome Window Switches (http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=8848)

M-A8 1st October 2014 11:16 PM

UPGRADE: Chrome Window Switches
19 Attachment(s)
So, a not so quick story behind this upgrade, some may enjoy reading it, some not, well...
As you may have noticed me and Scott want MORE chrome inside the cabin, BUT not too much, not more than what's OEM, but with few touches of our own ideas.
So far we both added a chrome light switch, plus I swapped my steering wheel buttons to ones with chrome surrounding...and this is just the beginning :D

On Tuesday morning I got a text from Scott (who clearly was bored at work and more focused on chrome upgrades than the actual work :p) to check a chrome window switch online.
That was a defining moment for me where I decided to forget about work for the day and I dedicated all my time to develop with Scott this idea.

After a full day of searching, researching, comparing tons of pictures of all possible switches from all angles, digging through ETKA, few phone calls to Audi we finally achieved our goal to have chrome window switches on our 8s.
A final phone call to Audi that day in the afternoon and the switch was ready to pick up today (one at the minute to confirm our find)

All Audis from 2011 had chrome switches as standard so we focused on 2012 Audi A3 8P, and that is because on the very end of the day we realized that there is only slight difference between A8 and A3 part numbers, for example:
A8 D3 window switch: 4E0 959 855
A3 8P window switch: 4F0 959 855

And that was the final nail to the coffin.

So as soon switch arrived I decided to put work on side and dedicate all my time again to see if we got it right...and yes WE DID +++
Originally we were hoping for a simple cap swap, but it got even better, 2011on A3 switches are a direct replacement for A8 switches :mexicanwave:
It felt like Christmas already.

So the guide below, is base so far on one switch replacement (passenger front door), but trust us, there will be more to follow very soon as price enquiry for two sets will be made tomorrow.

To order switches just take down the number plate of any 5 door 12plate for example Audi A3 off Auto Trader and just order whole set as they all will come chrome as standard even if ETKA says soul black.

This mod/upgrade will involve:
- 3x single window switches
- 1x master switch (driver side)
- 1x mirror switch with fold option

Here it is:

..and for anyone interested here is the shot of internals, the difference is pretty big hence cap swap is impossible, but it is a direct replacement so why bother

Here we go:
Few pics from Elsa showing fixing points and connections between the door and the door card


So first remove the decorative door trim, start prying from the hinges side.
Then get your self a 8mm socket and a extension bar for the bolt behind the door pocket. This are the only two bolts you will have to undo.


Picture below shows you more realistic position of door card clips, and they are really really strong and quality. You wont break them like on other cars, but they will get you sweaty a bit because before the very first one gives up you will think 'That is not going anywhere'.
Start from the bottom outside corner and then just lift the card gently to disconnect one electrical connector and door handle.


As per picture 2 above (from Elsa) disconnect the door handle and then disconnect main electrical connector

Lay the door card in the boot for example and remove the insulation/fabric by pulling and turning at the same time either way metal clips.
(at this stage ignore the ''wrong'' and ''hook it up'' markings)



Your next step is to remove the arm support from the door by unscrewing 11 standard Audi torx screws, but before you do that pull the connector off the door and disconnect it as per picture below


Now the arm support. Here are only 3 standard torx screws which you have to remove in order to remove bottom cover to get to the switch, undo all of them even if you think the third one is irrelevant or are inpatient like me, otherwise you will break a plastic pin where one side of the cover clips on.



After replacing the switch follow everything in reverse order.

One thing with the insulation, make sure it is behind the internal door handle clip like in the picture below


Now it's time to remove door card clips.
They all should disengage during the pull, but they not. Use cutters or tool of your choice to gently disengage each clip and pull the off the door.
Position each clip on the door in disengaged position




Hook the door card up and start clipping it bit by bit. Use some force to engage the clips so the card sits nicely on the door with no gap and not loose.

And here it is, maybe not so impressive as the master switch, but when they all are changed it will add nice feel to the cabin.
Illumination works exactly as the original switch and it has exactly same colour.
I hope some of you will find this guide useful +++
Goodnight, it's time to sleep ;)



...and here is the exact part number of the single switch for now

ScottD3 2nd October 2014 07:18 AM

The fruits of our labour, so worth it.

Can't wait to do mine.

I'm tempted to buy the bits up and wait to do the chrome door pockets at the same time and fix my fibre light unit.
Then I only have to take the door card off once.

Nice guide mate and thanks for being the guinea pig +++

M-A8 2nd October 2014 08:34 AM

yeah, it was a long day, but well worth it +++

About the door pocket chrome trims.
They are about 400quid for a set of 4. Yes, guys they can be changed. If you look properly like did as originally I thought the pocket is a just one piece, the top part is a separate part number (inc. switch mounting, fuel cap/boot)
The only possible problem for anyone with interior colour other than black could be the actual colour.
For example, my grey interior is called Platinium, its def not soul(black), (torrone)beige, silver or indigo blue.
The faclift 2009on models interior colours are silk beige, light platinium (grey), cardamom beige, silver and soul (black)

So atm I'm confused in regard to my options, but anyone with black interior will be fine +++

...sorry, they are actually 136 each according to ETKA

ScottD3 2nd October 2014 10:07 AM

I might wait on the chrome door pockets at that price.
but will do the window switches.

Delboy 2nd October 2014 08:57 PM

Sweet mod, I had my suspicions that the a3 switch gear was similar as I too had being sniffing around with the same train of thought but thanks to you both its confirmed.

Good work

M-A8 2nd October 2014 09:02 PM

They are looking great Del.
Full set inc. mirror switch will cost you up to 130 inc. VAT from Audi +++

M-A8 3rd October 2014 11:27 AM

1 Attachment(s)
PNs for anyone interested

Architex_mA8tey 3rd October 2014 07:19 PM

Great write-up thanks Marcin! Added to sticky +++

M-A8 4th October 2014 11:52 PM

Cheers Neil +++

Some time next week there should be a follow up for rear door and driver's door (but that will cover only the differences as rest of it will be more likely the same)

M-A8 9th October 2014 10:10 PM

11 Attachment(s)
So, today I managed to fit rest of the switches and oh boy, they look sooooo good. One of the best mods for the interior, no doubts.
One thing different in operation is the mirror switch, it is way much smoother.

Scott, we did it and thanks once again for putting this idea last Wednesday in my head, hours spent on research were well worth it.

So here it is, and below you will find the rest of the guide.
There is one thing you have to do to get the master switch fit, but its fairly straight forward.




Location of the fixing points on the rear door card.
One thing. When you pull the card off, be very careful and don't pull it to hard !!!
Wiring from the twitter speaker is very short and plugs directly to the main speaker from the top, so please take extra care. Squeeze both sides and pull it up. The disconnect the door handle same as on the front door and then there is one and only main connector at the bottom - it's easier if you do that one last (lean the card towards your body and you will gain a good access to it.


Mirror switch is a bit of a pain, but nothing serious. But, mine was glued on one side from factory, not much, but you will have to break the glue first.
It sits fairly deep. I used iSesamo tool which I squeezed between the clip and the surrounding housing and then used a flat head screwdriver to push it out.

Here is the only little adjustment you have to do to make the driver's master switch fit, if you don't do this you will end up gluing it. I did as I was expecting to just click in, but instantly both front clips just broke off.


So there is a cut out in original switch for two plastic bits which you will have to trim a bit in order to fit new switch, well, it's better if you look at the pictures as I am brain dead after a long and hard day.


Then if you take too much of the plastic off as per pictures below the switch will go too deep and will be loose so keep cutting off bit by bit until you get the best fit.
At least someone else, me :hammer:, made this mistake so you don't have to.



The gap should be about 0.5mm so the caps don't rub.

Here is the picture of part numbers and prices.
(this is the invoice for almost two complete sets, mine and Scott's, so don't get put off by this)
Cost about 130



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