Recovering the electronics box
 

As with most D2s it seems, most of the screws in the electronics box in mine have seized at some point, and previous owners have just yanked the top cover off. There was only one screw left usable by the time I got it. It's 'only' £100 new for both pieces, but I'm getting bored of throwing money at this problem child so repair rather than replace. In the pics the electronics box is removed from the car (since I was also working on the heater valve) but there's no reason you couldn't do this in place.

The brass inserts are all still seized to the rusty screws and so stuck in the lid. Mole grips didn't help so I just drilled the heads off them all.

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/s8/top1.jpg

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/s8/top2.jpg

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/s8/top3.jpg

I've found some more black screws and washers on ebay - they are on the way.

To repair the box itself I found these little beasties (also on ebay):

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/s8/inserts.jpg

They're called 'D nuts' and are intended for use in wood but I figured they would work just as well in plastic. The teeth on them are a particular shape to prevent them backing out, and given the torque required to put them in its unlikely you'd be able to apply more than that to an M5 screw so they'll be pretty solid.

You can see the difference to the original brass inserts here:

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/s8/oldscrew.jpg

The new inserts are designed to fit a 7.5 - 7.9mm hole which, conveniently, is a little bigger than the one the old inserts leave when they pull out :)

Drill out to 7.5mm:

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/s8/drilled.jpg

The new inserts have a flange on the top so the holes need countersinking slightly using a 12mm drill to allow them to sit flush. That's important to allow the lid to seal properly. Well, as best as it can anyway :rolleyes:

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/s8/countersunk.jpg

The new inserts have a 5mm hex socket in the top to allow them to be screwed in:

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/s8/insert2.jpg

one done:

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/s8/insert3.jpg

and all complete:

http://www.corradov8.com/pics/s8/electronicsbox.jpg

Fixed for a fiver and an hour's work +++ New screws with anti-seize grease should mean this will outlast the car.

I am impressed by your resourceful repairs, not a duck tape and try raps type of repair either but proper robust solutions :cool:

Not to put a damper on this, but I had all sorts or electrical problems recently because the rubber seal in the lid of the box had failed. A new lid comes complete with a new seal.

"Damper" :D

The rubber seal is the reason I made sure all the new inserts are flush, and luckily mine is in very good condition with no signs of water ingress even with only one screw holding it together. If that seal was showing any sign of compromise then I would definitely have replaced the lid :) Its about £40 so even if you only rescue the bottom piece its still a saving of £50-odd and a huge amount of swearing to get it out.

I like that. Mine needs doing......

Nick

Just in case anyone tries this and makes a mess of it, I have 2 spare lids surplus to requirements

Great job.
I admire the amount of effort spent to remove lower part of the box to do this repair !!! +++

I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to say that this really works, so thanks Mikki and keep on giving us all these cool tips!