Changing rear brake pads and discs - need help
 

I'm not sure where to begin as it's a long story!
I went at changing my rear pads and discs two days ago. I'd bought OBDeleven and I'd managed to retract the parking brake OK. I put the car in jack mode and lifted the rear of the car up on axle stands. I removed the wheels and calipers and prised the pads (or what was left of them)off the disc and then found that I wouldn't be able to get the discs off without removing the caliper carrier. The job was getting bigger than I had anticipated as I thought I'd read somewhere that the discs could come out without removing the carrier bracket. Anyhow, I went at removing the carrier bolts which were a total pig to loosen and it took me about two hours of trying to figure it out before I had them all loose. The carriers off, I took out my piston retractor only to find that I had a two-pin plate and the A8 took a three-pin. I had a pain in my arse at this stage so I finished up for the evening. Next day I buy the three-pin plate for the piston retractor. In the meantime I had also read that the carrier bolts should be replaced when removed so I ordered four of them also. I went at retracting the pistons yesterday evening. The LHS was taking most of my effort to wind the piston in but eventually I got it all the way in. In the meantime I read that the pistons didn't need turning at all so on the RHS caliper I put on the retractor but didn't turn the plate and the piston went in a lot easier than the LHS although there was definitely some sort of 'creaking' sound at one stage. My next problem is that I can't remove the lower caliper carrier bolts from the hub carrier as the brake line is in the way and I'm not sure how to release it. Please see pic.

[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/6f4kg8.jpg[/IMG]

SSP17 says (about rear discs - all versions including ceramics)
"It is possible to change the brake disc without removing the brake carrier."

I didn't remove the carrier on mine, the disc just swung out.

Hmm, dunno so, mine definitely would not come off with the carrier on and believe me I tried as I really didn't want to take off the carrier. Main problem I have now is I've put it all back together but rear brakes seem to be stuck on. Parking brake seems to cycle OK and it passed a test OK. I'm getting a fault for brake linings although I did enter the new pad value of 12mm and when I check it it reads 12mm. I'm wondering if I've buggered one of my calipers - there was a lot of resistance winding the LHS one in and the RHS creaking started me thinking was it the piston creaking in the bore? This car is braking my heart.

I feel your pain. Been there done that. I think I was able to slacken off the calliper carrier and move it with one bolt removed. That way I got the disc off. My process was scuppered when the EPB module ate itself. By that point I replaced all the parts and handed the f**&er over to a garage to sort. They replaced the module and cleared some codes. I could have done that, but by that point I was a broken man.

The steel calliper carrier bolts on the O/S/F (alloy) hub were contact corroded to death. I had to use a blowtorch and WD40 on the bolt, with an impact gun to get the thing to turn. The N/S/F came apart easily as could be. I still shudder at the memory of that afternoon, that became a weekend of pain.

I love Audis but they really aren’t that nice to work on. I still remember trying to replace the battery on my A2. Thought it would take minutes. Over an hour later I was still cursing the thing as I stared at the old battery in situ!!!

I’ve worked on all my cars and family members’ over the years, without so much hassle as I’ve had with the A2 and A8.

Whereabouts are you OP?

I'm in Dublin, Ireland. I managed to get the discs off in the end like you said - with one bolt removed and the other loose the carrier could be moved enough to get the disc out. I ended up taking all the carrier bolts out and replacing them although I'm still not sure how anybody is supposed to get a torque wrench on the two lower bolts. I've had the calipers back off a few times now at this stage trying to figure out what's causing them to stick as they were working OK before I went at them! I have a seal kit coming so maybe bleeding the system and rebuilding the calipers might solve the problem, although at this stage I'm very tempted to offload the whole thing to a mechanic just to be shot of it.

Sorry to bring the old thread back up, but how did you sort your issue at the end?

If you mean the sticking calipers, it was really only one that was sticking and I fixed mine by replacing it. The piston in the old one was well rusted and wasn't moving freely in the bore - especially when pushed all the way back in with the new pads. I was in a hurry at the time put I'm presuming I could have just replaced the piston and cleaned up the caliper, and I still have the intention of doing this with the old one....sometime :)

Thanks mate, same issue with my rear left caliper. After driving 10 mins or so it starts squealing. Bought a new one as I am in a rush. Was gonna go refurb route but don’t have diagnostic to release epb

OBDeleven dongles are relatively cheap and can do just about everything.

Any link?+++