Few electrical niggles
 

Hello fellow owners, have few electrical issues on my newly acquired D2.

1. Trip computer won't register that boot is shut? Where is the sensor for that, can't see one separate, is it part of the latch?

2. Lights won't come on in the boot, no +12v to the bulb holder? Could be related to above?

3. When I unlock the car only front interior lights come on? Rear comes on when I turn front on, but they won't come on with the rear switch? :Confused: Makes sense?

4. Now it's bit chilly outside, trip computer screen is very dark? Once car warms up it's nice and bright?

TIA +++

The display being dim when cold is a common problem. Without replacing it (and there's probably no part available) I dont think there's any solution.
The interior lights and locking mechanism and detection systems are all controlled through a single "Central Locking Alarm System and and Interior Lights Control Module" in the boot on the left side near the wheel well.
The boot lid alarm switch is in the latch mechanism and feeds into this module.

Finding the Module would be a good starter for ten here. As well as getting VCDS scan +++

I'll get it scanned tomorrow and find where the module is and take it from there. Seems like all the issues are related :hammer:

No errors on vcds for central locking :Confused:

Well, i guess that the boot being detected as open is not a "fault" as it is just recording what the sensor is telling it. Therefore its a faulty sensor.
The interior lights issues will probably just need some patient fault finding.

I'll start with replacing the latch and take it from there. +++

The rear interior light behaviour is pretty common too - sometimes removing it and cleaning the contacts will help for a while, but from memory the only permanent solution is a new one

Various people have tried to establish the exact cause - have a look for posts by Notorious and HPSauce as I think both have investigated

The boot latch microswitch is "probably" OK, I have a few spares if you really do need one.....

My experience is that plastic/nylon interior parts of the boot latch wear or break. The "usual" problem (based on my multiple experiences and taking the latches apart) is that the boot will then not latch shut at all or jams.
The microswitch not being triggered is probably secondary - if you take one apart you'll see why.

To be honest, it's best to get a good latch from our sponsors, and check it works properly before fitting as well. (I have been sent a faulty one, which was speedily replaced with absolutely quibble at no cost to me.)
You can check it opens and closes properly by using a chunky screwdriver shaft to emulate the latching post, and test the wiring/microswitch with a multimeter.

Replacing the latch isn't at all difficulty, though you do have to take the boot lid interior trim off to get at it. Due to excess practice I can do that in about 5 minutes! :tuttut:

If you can risk having the car without a boot latch for a few days take it off and investigate. If, like me, it's parked outside and accessible get a spare first.
But if it's failing there's a good chance that when you remove it the damaged parts may just fall out making it inoperable.

Boot closes perfectly, and tested with a screw driver and all is as it should be. Already checked with Prestige and they have few for sale on their Ebay store just need to double check the part number. They're not overly expensive so I'll just get a replacement. Hoping it will also fix my interior lights but doubt it .

Is it only 2 wires for the latch or? (Have taken trim off but haven't got round taking latch off yet)

Yes, just 2 wires, you should be able to get at the wiring connector for testing if the trim is off.

(Rear interior lights are a problem I've had and documented here; IIRC the solution for me was to resolder some dry joints in the switch block in the rear interior light unit. I have a spare unit now that I "fixed" in beige)

Back on boot latch switches. They are just held in by a plastic flap/clip and are dead easy to replace, just can't recall if you can do that in situ.
My problem was the plastic parts that actuate the switch, they broke and jammed the latch.
Here's 2 good ones I have immediately to hand: