40v Timing belt parts and tools
 

What are all the timing belt parts and all tools needed for the job? I want to buy everything that is needed to do this job while I also do the cam chain job.

I know you need the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump, thermostat (what is the correct temperature?), timing belt rollers. What else is needed?

I know the tools needed are the camshaft holding bar, crankshaft lock tool. What else is needed?

In terms of specialist tools you need:

Camshaft bar
Crank locking pin
Tensioner locking pin
Eccentric roller pin wrench

You also need a large 1/2" torque wrench for most of the hardware, and a small 1/4" torque wrench which can read in reverse (!) for the eccentric roller. The latter I have found very hard to come by so the alternative is to note the position of the roller before it comes off, set the new one to suit and then measure clearance at the tensioning damper.

General tools you will need metric sockets and 5, 6 & 8mm allen wrenches both loose and in socket-drive (3/8" or 1/2" drive). The 8mm is for the crank locking pin blanking plug, for which you will also need a long extension bar and a universal joint. Tx30 Torx for the water pump and thermostat.

Parts are the full belt kit with rollers and tensioner damper (always do the tensioner damper regardless of apparent condition as it's lifespan is 1.5 belt swaps!), water pump, thermostat, and usually do the aux belt and rollers while I'm in there.

I also recommend a full set of water pump bolts if you can get them (12x N90827702 but they might supercede to a WHT number) and give the existing ones a sharp tap with a hammer via the Tx30 tool before removing to break any stiction.

Bear in mind the OE thermostat (077 121 113C) doesn't come with a seal (N90136802) so that needs ordering separately.

The aux belt is 6pk2680. The aux roller is INA 532006610 and rather than changing the entire aux tensioner (which is expensive and doesn't seem to fail), a roller from a 2.7 Hyundai motor can be used instead ;) INA 532054310 for that one. You need to use the smaller of the two washers with the centre drilled out, and the original Audi bolt. I recommend the INA version as it comes with the washer you need - others tend to be the bare roller. You save about 60% of the price of the full tensioner doing this +++

You'll need new coolant too obvs - G13 which is pink / red in colour. Typically about 8 litres for this job, so I use 4 litres of concentrate at a 50/50 mix.

Would you have part numbers for these tools?

The VAG numbers are:

Cam locking bar - T40005
Crank locking pin - 3242
Tensioner locking pin - T40011
Roller pin wrench - T40009

Sealey do a full kit of these as VSE5938 which is £120, but I hire my set out to UK folks if needed +++

I also forgot to mention above that you need a 2 or 3-leg bearing puller to pop the cam sprockets loose, and a sturdy pin wrench to get the fan pulley off.

The reason I didn't ask about the locking bar is because I bought one from someone on here a few years back... if I can still find it!

Even better news with the Sealey kit, thanks.

Thanks for the info MikkiJayne. I will start buying the special tools soon. Then I will buy the timing belt parts. By the time I have everything the weather should be cooled down where it'll be comfortable to work on my car.

Perhaps even the special extra heavy duty version! :D

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I found this inexpensive can locking bar that comes with a crank locking pin and a tensioner locking pin. linkHow many tensioner locking pins do I need? When I google search the part number T40011 it shows you can buy a set of 3 locking pins. Also how many roller pin wrench do I need?

You only need one of each thing. The bar in that link looks like the V6 one, although the listing does say its for the V8 so it may just be the wrong photo.

No T40009 pin wrench in that kit by the look of it, but you can get away without it as long as you have a pin wrench of some description. 90 degree circlip pliers work at a pinch. The main thing with that is to get the proper tension on the belt, and to do it the Audi way you need a 5Nm torque wrench which works in reverse. I've never found such a thing so I set it 'about right' from experience and then measure the gap at the hydraulic tensioner per the procedure, and re-adjust as necessary.