Quote:
Originally Posted by RICKY D
what prep work did you do beforehand? Any rubbing down, any cleaning etc?
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The first step is to remove insides from the R8 cap. Remove the valve with pliers. Then attack the bottom of the cap with Dremel tool with cutting disc attached. Start from the middle and do several cuts to remove the central part of plastic directly below the valve. Then work your way to edges with pliers. Just remove plastic by small pieces.
Before gluing I have rubbed inner surface of R8 cap with sandpaper for better adhesion and then wiped with methylated spirit to completely degrease it. This bit of preparation was over the top I must admit, but I just enjoyed taking my time.
I also removed about 0.5mm of plastic from the top of the newly purchased blue D2 cap where all the letterings are. Basically flattened the top. Done it for two reasons: 1. to make it sit 100% horisontal within the R8 cap during gluing process. 2. To save 0.5mm of height since I had a theory that the bonnet will sit too close to the top of R8 cap, which didn't prove to be the case.
The blue cap was also roughened a bit with sandpaper and wiped with methylated spirit directly before gluing.
The *important* preparation step is to mark where exactly the D2 cap will sit/point in fully tightened position in order to glue the R8 cap on top of it so it will be aligned the way you want it. For example, on my car in fully tightened position the R8 cap's handle sits fully horizontal and the warning triangle on it isn't upside down. There is only one gluing position that allows for this. It should be properly calculated. Additional allowance should be given for the new D2 cap gasket to settle with time as well since it'll become a bit squashed in the future, so the cap should be rotated further to achieve full tightness.
Allow 48 hours for adhesive to settle before tightening the cap.
Hope it helps?