[MikkiJayne]

If someone can operate a Hunter then they ought to be happy enough with the idea of a custom alignment if you tell them that's what you want. Basically its everything to factory specs except front toe which is parallel +0/-0.1, so effectively a very tiny bit of toe in or none, but not toe out. (nb - don't take these numbers as gospel. I'll scan my alignment sheet this evening)

If you have a different reaction one way to the other the first thing I would look at is where the tie rods are set in the hub. They have vertical adjustment to give some bump-steer control, but no one other than Audi ever knows how to set that. On a lowered car I will set the tie rods to the bottom of their adjustment, so basically loosen the top bolt plenty and then loosen the tie rod pinch bolt so the rod moves. Tap it down until it stops and then tighten the pinch bolt and nip up the top bolt. The idea is to get the tie rods parallel with the ground at normal ride height. You can't get that, but you can at least set them to the correct end of the adjustment.
If you have different settings both sides that means you have different bump steer characteristics side to side as well, so when the car leans in to a corner you'll get a different amount of steering angle change side to side which will feel very odd indeed, especially lowered with stock toe settings.

The other thing to look at on the alignment is whether camber and caster are roughly equal side to side. If the subframe isn't on straight then you can set toe just fine and it'll drive straight, but you'll see camber and caster differences which can also lead to odd handling.