View Single Post
  #9  
Old 27th October 2020, 01:25 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5,017
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Jones View Post
which would be easy enough to sort if all the hard line fittings weren't corroded solid. The powder coated pipe is the very devil to re-flare
Assuming they are the same brake fittings as the D2 with the C-shaped spring holding the flexi in to the bracket:
  1. Press the brake pedal and hold it down with a broom. This stops fluid draining out when you open the system
  2. Try and get the hardline union moving in the flexi fitting, but obviously don't turn it too far otherwise you'll corkscrew the hardline. Just enough that it comes loose.
  3. Cut the flex off as that is sacrificial.
  4. Cut the C-shaped spring off (chunky wire cutters + metal fatigue)
  5. You're left with the hardline and the flexi end fitting. Hold the hardline fitting still and wind the flexi fitting off it (mole grips etc)
  6. Let the brake fluid drip out (won't be much - only the downward portion of the line, as the master cylinder is cutting off fluid flow from the reservoir)
  7. Heat the hardline union with a blowtorch until the plastic coating melts and oozes out of the union, then before it cools use a spanner etc to wiggle it and get it rotating. You can then wiggle it up from the flare whereupon you can clean out all the corrosion and old plastic and eventually get the fitting to spin freely.
  8. Clean the end of the hardline with sandpaper and thinners and paint it with direct-to-metal paint (I use Rustoleum).
  9. When the paint is dry, reassemble with the new flexi and a replacement C spring, then I usually give it a squirt of spray grease or waxoyl to stop moisture getting in again.
Reply With Quote