Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne
On the bench - I never do control arms on the car. The principle should still work on the car, but you're swinging the hammer in an awkward direction of course.
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Now ya tell me!!...lol
Indeed, no swing could be had with a hammer with the bearing housing on the car so I decided to take your lead and remove the whole assembly until I ran into the same problem again (only worse!) with the tie-rod ball-joint. The pinch bolt is seized solid and there doesn't even seem to be a bolt head to shear off to pull it through like I did with the other one. I had liked the idea of pulling out the whole assembly as the arms could then be torqued up to the referenced angle on the bench (if I read the manual correctly?) not to mention full access to my arch liner as I have a washer fluid leak issue to look at while I'm in there as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by S81
I had the same problem ,I used a trolley Jack and a small round bar to apply heavy upward pressure on the pin in the track Rod and then taped the housing gently and prolonged and pin eventually started to move ( it's not that easy to get the bar and Jack positioned to get the strong upward pressure as part of the suspension stops u from getting directly under it)(same as yourself I didn't want to damage the rubber boots ) ,I think I cleaned the corrosion out of the slit with a hack saw blade and sprayed penetration oil into it before hand as well ,when I went to the second side i just rung the head of the bolt right away and pulled it thu with the nut as it seemed to be the only thing that worked on mine
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Thanks for that...I was ready to admit defeat and had the wheel back on with the intention of giving it to a professional, but I'll give it another go and see if I can get anywhere with the jack pressure. I did speak to a mechanic who told me he just hammers in a ball-joint fork and at the same time expands the slit in the alloy to get the arms out.