Well, I just replaced my 4E0959617C valve/circulation pump block today with a used part that was 220PZL (£47) delivered from allegro.pl to UK. That is about 1/3 of UK ebay price.
I tested in the house with 12v DC on the pump and heard it wizz up.
I didn't put 12v on the other connectors in case it damages the solenoid, but they were both 17.6 OHM.
My old one was 4E0959617(A) but I can't see any difference between the two externally. They don't seem to have any manufacture date on them at all.
Quite a fiddly job, the Audi service manual instructions are not much use really, but I recommend using a paint pen to mark all hoses A, B, C, D and the two larger ones from the bulkhead T for top as the last two are especially easy to mix up.
On my 3.0 TDI there is a waterbox cover with an ECU sat on it in the way and these had to be removed and set asside. I also had to disconnect a few coloured multipin plugs in the waterbox to allow me to pull the loom away. The look had a block shaped bung where it enters the waterbox and this can slide up and out to move the loom. The cabin air filter also needs removing.
Now that is as much room as you can get, so time to mark up the hoses and undo the jubilee clips. Then you need to wiggle off the hoses with a scredriver. Remove 3 electrical connectors *which are all keyed so can't get mixed up. The valve is mounts on six (2 upper and 4 lower) rubber carrots. it will pull off these but refitting is tricky.
Once all hoses are off the unit will pull up with some wiggling and you can compre new and old on the bench. Mark the ABCD etc hose postitions on the new part (it helps a lot) and refit. TIP - -I had to remove again and start all over as it would not push down and lock with the 4 lower carrots - You have to remove 2 x 10mm nuts and take out the mounting bracket and fit it to the valves first. Put soap on the carrots and then pull them through the hole with pliars, they stretch a lot and sort of extrude through the hole. The 10mm nuts are easily accessible when in position.
Putting the hoses back on is harder than pulling off. Helps if they are we with coolant was harder the second time by which time they were drier.
Last pipe was the drivers side upper which I used for bleeding, you can just put a garden click on hosepipe fitting to the valve outlet and open the tap a bit until coolantr comes out of the rubber pipe, then pull off hosepipe and fit coolant hose. This does dilute your coolant a bit so can syphon some off and add neat coolant when all finished.
Make sure electrical coonectors are dried with air duster or alcohol before refitting. Back to toasty again, and when your colleagues tell you you should have bought a Japanese car you can tell them this was a Japanese DENSO part.
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