Oil on the front is not from the valley gasket as that can only get down the back. Things on the front are cam and crank oil seals which usually tend to be a bit damp but not leak profusely. The usual culprit is cam cover gaskets which can leak oil on everything.
I would take the engine out for a full re-seal, but tbh thats just because its easier to do all the other jobs at the same time - oil cooler plastic pipe and the cam chain tensioners on the 40V. Its entirely possible to re-seal the cams, crank, cam covers and valley gasket with the engine in place, but the front end will need to come off - bumper, headlights, front panel, radiator etc. The AC condenser can be swung out of the way.
Taking the inlet manifold off requires critical cleanliness - these engines collect a lot of schmutz between the manifold and the cylinder head so multiple stages of degreasing, vacuuming & air blasting are needed to clean the area as much as possible. Even then, some always remains once the manifold is lifted so I then go round with the vacuum again immediately after removing the manifold to pick up anything else before it can fall in the ports. Once everything is spotless I'll stick some duct tape over the ports while I do everything else.
If I remember correctly, the crank sprocket bolt for the 32V is NLA, but I think there is an alternative from another model. Seals should be easy enough to get from the aftermarket. All the timing gear will need to come off to re-seal the cams and crank so you'll need to acquire the locking tools for the 32V which can be a challenge. Probably sensible to do the belt and tensioners while you're in there.
Hoses will have to come from Tradition so its pot luck which ones they have unfortunately. Knock sensors are obviously easy enough to get aftermarket.
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