It might take 7 hours as a standalone job if you stop a lot for tea and biscuits, but once the front end is off its less than 2 hours extra work, most of which is selecting the right combination of hex bits and extension bars to get to all the bolts. I do this pipe as a matter of course on an engine-out service since it's simple to get to.
A word of warning trying to do it with the engine in - the bolts have shallow socket heads (simply for the schadenfreude - there's no technical need for it) and while they are not done up to massive torque, they do have a considerable amount of stiction. On the engine stand I will always give them a sharp tap with a hammer before taking them out, otherwise they have a tendency to round off. If you rounded one in the car then its game over and engine out to recover it. Its almost impossible to hammer the hex key in to them because the chassis leg is in the way so I either used a long punch or an extension bar to just shock the top of each bolt, before tapping the hey key in gently. They all came out that way without too much of a fight.
The factory plastic pipe has a single o-ring at each end, and the water pipe which connects the cooler to the back of the engine has another of the same o-ring. The metal one has two each end. Your link is the same one I have in my grey S8 btw. I buy the o-rings 20 at a time from a bearing shop for pence each rather than paying the silly dealer price.
The oil cooler seal isn't available on its own any more. You can only buy it as part of a kit (077198405) which is four times the price and full of stuff you don't need.
Last edited by MikkiJayne; 12th January 2020 at 05:16 PM.
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