The milkshake will be a failed oil cooler as that is the only place oil and coolant are in the same place, other than the head gasket which neither I nor Ian have ever seen fail. Changing the oil cooler is the same as changing the oil cooler pipe since they're both in the same housing. A genuine cooler is about £200 and still available new as it is shared with the D3. Aftermarket versions are also available.
Sean is spot on about the tensioners and the milkshake could well have caused the failure. Its usually only the driver's side which rattles due to the design of it. The simple way to check is to pull the cam cover and turn the engine over by hand from the crank pulley. If the 'cold start pin' is jammed because it ate the filter, the inlet cam will jump forward just before TDC and the chain becomes slack, then as you continue to turn the engine the chain tightens up again and the inlet cam moves again. The cam jumping and the chain going slack are the cause of the noise. On a mature engine with >120k miles on it this really does need investigating because if the chain guides are worn (which they will be at that mileage) the chain slapping on them can break them and then worse things happen.
New tensioners are still available for £650 each. There's a chap in Lithuania who rebuilds them for £70 each but I haven't had a chance to try him yet, and there are new German aftermarket units available for about £250 iirc, although I haven't tried those either. Chinesium ones are garbage obviously.
Starting problems are usually one of three things - F125 is failing, junction box is corroded, starter interlock relay is full of water. Given that you've seen smoke from the wheel arch I would be inclined to remove the junction box to clean and inspect the starter cables. Its not uncommon for them to corrode inside the grease as moisture still gets in. The box is still available afaik and isn't expensive.
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