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#1
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screw in tyre, advice?
I managed to get another screw in my tyre, only a month after the last one.
This is getting expensive. It somehow went in diagonally and into the thick part of the tread not between the ridges. I pulled it out and didn't lose pressure. Does this mean it didn't penetrate all the way through? Is it safe to drive like this or is there a danger if the tyres heat up at 70mph that the incomplete hole will crack through the remaining thin rubber and deflate at high speed? |
#2
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If it is holding pressure I think you will be fine!
Just don't tighten it up |
#3
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Almost certainly repairable, if you can get it to a tyre fitter soonish: personally, I'd drive it a bit more slowly (say c. 50mph), especially for a front tyre, until you can do that.
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#4
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+1 with Steve (tintin)
Sooner, rather than later, let a tyre expert check it out. Even if they only put the complete wheel in a tub of water. They might drill through the damage into the interior then insert a mushroom from the inside which will then be vulcanised. A very good repair and much less than 10% of a new one. Problem is when the nasty object affects the tyre wall integrity, then a new tyre. Good luck with it. I had a spate of finding odd screws on the road surface near our house, suspect someone dropping them whilst walking by.
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Ray at Wigan Pier 2014 A8L D4 4.0TFSI Gold (Sticker says "Beige") Can't leave you in a black smoke cloud anymore.. In progress, Nothing left to do. Gone 2004 A8 D3 3.0 TDI. Ebony Pearl Black (with little bits of other colours and glitter) |
#5
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It'll be fine as long as its not penetrated the casing. The tread it’s self can be swiss cheesed and sometimes is on snow tyres as you fire stud into them.
A bit of spit on your finger over the screw head and look for bubbles. If there is none then unscrew the screw, check again for bubbles. If you get bubbles screw it back in and go see the tyre fitter. The casing its self is the pressure vessel as such so don't worry about it warming up an popping. I've seen truck tyres shed the whole of the tread off the rest of the tyre and in the good old days of remoulds was a common thing as the donor casing is stripped of its tread right back so you can see the wires and then retreaded. http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1459926556
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1996 A8 4.2 QS. Bose, Solar roof, um...um... rally sport towbar. Now gone to a new home as the Traders 8. Bright yellow bus o love. Last edited by Dezzy; 6th April 2016 at 07:09 AM. |
#6
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Quote:
The mushroom is called a plug and requires the hole to be reamed out. normally only used for large holes where a patch just doesn't cut the mustard. They're not vulcanised just an adhesive that's allowed to go touch try before contact. I would say the "expert" will repair it for you even though it needs no repairing. Unless you've marked the hole i reckon you'll struggle to find it. Most tyres are repairable if the puncture is in the main 3/4 of the tread, shoulders and side walls = scrap tyre
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1996 A8 4.2 QS. Bose, Solar roof, um...um... rally sport towbar. Now gone to a new home as the Traders 8. Bright yellow bus o love. |
#7
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Thanks guys for the advice.
I took the screw out already, seems to be holding pressure so far. Dezzy, I will try the soapy solution method to see if the remaining hole still leaks slowly, thanks. That's what I was worried about, if there is no hole all the way through, the repair shop will still make a hole and patch it anyway. Maybe if its not leaking I could fill the hole from the outside with vulcanising solution or this stuff? http://www.mikes-diving.co.uk/storms...glue-297-p.asp |
#8
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I thought the more normal process these days was to put an adhesive airtight patch on the inside.
But if it's not actually leaking, leave it and monitor regularly. Anything applied on the outside is likely to come adrift given the wear and movement in a tyre tread. I'd probably plan to swap it to the spare in due course, having it taken off the wheel and checked inside at the same time.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#9
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If a screw goes in and doesn't burst through, I just poke some rubber glue in with a wooden scewer.
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#10
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Quote:
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1459935902 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1459935902 http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1459935902 Off road it's also possible to repair puncture from the outside, string insert.
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1996 A8 4.2 QS. Bose, Solar roof, um...um... rally sport towbar. Now gone to a new home as the Traders 8. Bright yellow bus o love. |
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