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D2 - Everything else Anything that doesnt fit elsewhere |
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#1
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couple of S8 pre-purchase questions
Encountered a few things on a second viewing yesterday that I wasn't sure about, hoping folks may have seen these bits before.
2002/02 D2 S8 boot release switch (drivers door trim) not working - assuming switch or poss fuse having searched on here Bootlid was not completely straight i.e. it was 2-3mm higher for the left panel gap than the right ( where the bootlid joins the rear arches near the rear screen)- is this something that can be adjusted easily ? No evidence of accident damage - it just looked a bit pi55ed. rear numberplate surround trim loose - assume clips broken or similar ? didn't have the original Audi windscreen, spec says with shadeband but this one wasn't marked with the Audi rings and no band. Are OEM screens silly money ? scuttle and wheel arch drains needed unblocking - have seen the guides on how to do this. when I used the interior lock/unlock switch in the drivers door, from rear-left of car there was what seemed to be a compressor-type sound lasting about 5-10 seconds after pressing Unlock. Didn't do it after lock. It did sound a bit odd going on for so long - any suggestions on what this could be ? Something powering actuators or similar ? corrosion on silver trims - does something like Autosol metal polish or the Megs equivalent get this back to health or once they have started corroding that is the end of them ? I'd expect this to happen on an 11yo car but would be nice if I can provide a bit of TLC to make an improvement. thanks Last edited by rs32; 1st June 2013 at 08:21 AM. |
#2
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What year S8 is it?
The central locking is vacuum-actuated, so the noise could be a leaky pipe or actuator. Shut lines are always tight and straight on A8's. The boot I think has some adjusters but I'd be looking at the hinges as well. It's not a powered boot lid is it (don't think that was available on D2 anyway)?
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#3
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have updated above for year
I thought maybe boot hinge but seemed odd that is was so noticeable. You can trace the height difference all the way from the rear screen edge to the rear bumper, it's only a few mm but looks very odd. Slight (careful) pressure by hand evens it all up. |
#4
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If the switch is faulty for boot release (easy enough to test by pulling it out and shorting the necessary connections) they're available for peanuts new - about 6 euros from Audi in Germany. Not sure what the UK dealer price is?
Could be the actuator in the boot of course. Does the button on the remote fob work to open the boot (need to press and hold for a few seconds)? Windscreen sounds like a cheap insurance replacement where the previous owner hasn't noticed it didn't even have the top band. It should do and new screens are apparently tricky to do right if you have exacting standards. Mine has been replaced in the past but seems OK
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===SOLD===2002 Audi S8 D2 Final Edition (yes, really) in Avus Silver with purple extended leather===SOLD=== 2011 S5 Sportback in Phantom Black with black Super Sports leather, 9x20s, tech pack high, adaptive xenon plus, intelligent key, memory seats pack, sunroof, B&O, Audi Drive Select & quattro Sports Diff, DAB, parking system plus 2015 VW Golf GTI Performance Pack in Carbon Grey with black Vienna leather, tech pack (Discovery Pro nav & Dynaudio), DCC, factory towbar and retrofit RVC |
#5
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Quote:
Probably OK but a VCDS scan will likely throw up an error if there is a leak.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#6
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>> corrosion on silver trims
Polishing won't help. >> didn't have the original Audi windscreen, spec says with shadeband but this one wasn't marked with the Audi rings and no band. Are OEM screens silly money ? That's a pity. Check for corrosion around windscreen surround trim. I would walk away if corrosion is there. >> when I used the interior lock/unlock switch in the drivers door, from rear-left of care there was what seemed to be a compressor-type sound lasting about 5-10 seconds after pressing Unlock. Didn't do it after lock. It did sound a bit odd going on for so long - any suggestions on what this could be ? Something powering actuators or similar ? Leak in vacuum system. Can be difficult to fix, but doable. Based on what you write is seems to be relatively tired example with owner who didn't car too much. It all depends on your priorities. You can find better car but it takes time. If you don't care too much about cars then buy it. If you think seriously about restoring that car to proper condition it is worth checking for better example.
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I'd rather drive on left |
#7
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thanks - actually the rest of the car is pretty decent for the mileage and price point, full mechanical check next week but it took me 2 visits and a few hours to find that list of things.
130k miles - Most of the paint is decent, front stone chips tidied up reasonably well, leather interior very good and will restore to that of a 60k miler, everything in terms of visible engine components very clean and no serious leaks that I can see. Suspension silent, gearbox smooth, pulls very well. Auto box was replaced 2 years ago, brakes recently done, wheels all good, all other exterior trim good, some minor trim issues inside but it's 11 years old after all .... why do you say walk away if the windscreen trim has corrosion ? I read a few threads about this being quite common and a failing of the manufacturer part rather than anything more sinister ? If we're talking <£500 to sort out relatively minor issues, it's not a problem given the history provided with the car. If the mechanical check comes back with unforeseen major points and e.g. the compressor/vacuum ends up troublesome then you're right but I wouldn't say it's a clunker, far from it. Last edited by rs32; 1st June 2013 at 10:34 AM. |
#8
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He meant corrosion to the body around windscreen, not the trim itself. Most of the quick and cheap windscreen fitters does not use proper primers and adhesives to save on time and cost and just use cheap primerless one component adhesive. This can result in corrosion if paintwork under glue was damaged removing old windscreen.
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure |
#9
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Think what Notorious is suggesting is if the screen was badly fitted and they didn't prep the area when the screen was out there may be corrosion appearing around the screen surround, rather than just the trim bit
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===SOLD===2002 Audi S8 D2 Final Edition (yes, really) in Avus Silver with purple extended leather===SOLD=== 2011 S5 Sportback in Phantom Black with black Super Sports leather, 9x20s, tech pack high, adaptive xenon plus, intelligent key, memory seats pack, sunroof, B&O, Audi Drive Select & quattro Sports Diff, DAB, parking system plus 2015 VW Golf GTI Performance Pack in Carbon Grey with black Vienna leather, tech pack (Discovery Pro nav & Dynaudio), DCC, factory towbar and retrofit RVC |
#10
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>> why do you say walk away if the windscreen trim has corrosion ? I read a few threads about this being quite common and a failing of the manufacturer part rather than anything more sinister ?
Sorry, I meant corrosion from under the windscreen trim. And fixing the one that comes from under windscreen is a tough job. Windscreen out, paint pinchweld, glue windscreen again.
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I'd rather drive on left |
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