Modified VCDS labels for your VCDS - Page 2

richardracer · #11 9th April 2016, 07:00 PM

Hi there,

Loaded this up today and put in the quoted security code but it reports security error. Any suggestions from our experts?

Thanks

Richardracer

Darius · #12 9th April 2016, 08:03 PM

Was just using this an hour ago or so, worked fine. What code are you putting in?

woodie227 · #13 1st December 2016, 04:30 PM

Thank you Delboy, you're a star;loaded the file as per your instructions of years ago(!) and it works a treat to test the accumulator etc. Never done anything with files like this previously so it's done my confidence the world of good too! Onwards and upwards eh!:

kele · #14 7th December 2016, 04:04 PM

Thanks for this. Very useful.

I also charged the Accumulator to 15.5 bar and stopped there. Supposedly this tells me the compressor is healthy but it did not sound too healthy I have to say. I keep looking for what's going on..

Architex_mA8tey · #15 24th December 2016, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kele

Thanks for this. Very useful.

I also charged the Accumulator to 15.5 bar and stopped there. Supposedly this tells me the compressor is healthy but it did not sound too healthy I have to say. I keep looking for what's going on..

Mine was putting out 7.8psi when I checked it vs 16 bar when healthy and that was after it had a "bagpiping andy" replacement seal kit applied to it, and it was causing the compressor to run for too long as it tried to top up the system. This in turned caused the orange light to come on when the compressor stopped due to over heating. Changing it for a new one has resolved all issues but the label file was helpful in being able to test the old compressor first etc.

kele · #16 25th December 2016, 07:12 AM

Yes. I have drawn that conclusion too. I figure that with the miles on mine now and these codes, it is only a matter of time before it fails. Although on short, local trips it seems ok.

So i have a a new relay and compressor waiting to fit in the coming days..

snapdragon · #17 9th April 2019, 09:13 AM

Thanks for the label file Del, it works as you say.
I drained the whole thing down. It went much lower than it sinks to naturally through the leak, all 4 tyres hidden in the wheelarch. Then inflated the accumulator up to about 15 BAR (It took 8 runs to do this) and the compressor got to 97˚C so I allowed it to cool for a minute or two between runs. I wonder how many runs it should take? It seems to run for a prescribed amount of time each time. Last night I inflated the accumulator and the front axle to max and will check it in a bit so see what the pressures are.
I also will fit the new valve block this afternoon in any case as it is an early 08 part with 111,000 miles and mine is late 05 with 271,000miles. We are now pretty much at the stage where all used parts are >10 years old on the D3

Delboy · #18 9th April 2019, 10:01 AM

Glad it worked well for you.

There is miniature ball valves on the pneumatic instrumentation market that could be cut and shut into the lines to assist with finding the source of leaks. Never needed it my self but it's the route I would take.

snapdragon · #19 9th April 2019, 03:53 PM

Just changed the valve solenoid block. £52 it was. Hardest part was jacking up and removing the wheel really. It is behind the front left wheelarch liner, the liner is in two parts, it is behind the rearmost half, sort of behind the repeater signal on the wing. 5 torx screws and it can be peeled back and access is easy without removing it.
It was not leaking around any connections, replaced and cleaned it all and tested again for leaks. Charged the system. Suspect no different but will need to drive and park up to level the vehicle properly. If no differen't hopefully can sell my old valve block as it must be OK.

Attachment 21276

Attachment 21277

Delboy · #20 9th April 2019, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snapdragon

Just changed the valve solenoid block. £52 it was. Hardest part was jacking up and removing the wheel really. It is behind the front left wheelarch liner, the liner is in two parts, it is behind the rearmost half, sort of behind the repeater signal on the wing. 5 torx screws and it can be peeled back and access is easy without removing it.
It was not leaking around any connections, replaced and cleaned it all and tested again for leaks. Charged the system. Suspect no different but will need to drive and park up to level the vehicle properly. If no differen't hopefully can sell my old valve block as it must be OK.

Attachment 21276

Attachment 21277

This was the bits I referenced earlier so you can isolate a shock from the rest of the car thus finding the real problem.

https://forums.ross-tech.com/showthr...ll=1#post66453