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D2 - Fuel and Exhausts Everything to do with getting fuel into the engine, and fumes back out again |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
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I made a tool from metal bar and 2 bolts, M6 I think, when I was doing it.
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure |
#12
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Quote:
I don't have a welder and don't have a drill press. So I can't take a metal bar to weld two bolts to it or take a metal bar and drill two holes to fit the bolts though. I guess I'm going to have to buy the tool. |
#13
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This is what I use:
Lube sometimes helps too - I tend not to use WD40 on o-rings or plastic, but some sort of light oil maintenance spray which is thin enough to soak down the cracks would help. |
#14
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I used cordless drill and and bolts with nuts,
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure |
#15
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This solution cost me a few dollars from a hardware shop. No tools or welding required - just a measurement or two. Ok, I lied - I did have to file the channels in the angled metal a little.
Did you read the notes that I posted? Click here . . .
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1998 D2 S8 Jaspis Green Last edited by C4R 100N; 19th May 2020 at 08:36 AM. Reason: added notes link |
#16
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I did read your notes and that part must have slipped through my mind lol. I was laying in the trunk on my side when I read it and probably didn't absorb that info as I was frustrated with trying the pliers method like in that video. I ended up buying long 90 degree needle nose pliers that I will use this weekend. The nice thing about the 90 degree needle nose pliers that I bought have a flat surface that I can push down with my other hand while trying to turn that cap.
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#17
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I ordered a new fuel pump to replace the new fuel pump that I broke and finally got the fuel pump assembly reinstalled.
How important is to have this locking tab completely square? Sorry I wasn't able to get a clear picture of this locking tab so it's a little hard to see but it's not completely square. I can't get the top half to turn anymore to the left to get it square. How important is to replace the rubber o ring that's for the round electrical plug at the top of the fuel pump assembly? New fuel pump installed and installed new ear clamps. The fuel pump assembly is ready to go back into the car. Last edited by Audifan; 9th November 2020 at 10:13 PM. Reason: switched pictures to attachment |
#18
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O-ring on the electrical connector is not super critical. It doesn't seal anything in the tank.
It's mainly there to seal the connector from the world around the tank (tank just hangs below the car, and can be subject to water spray, road grime etc). I don't like it in the video (in vicinity of 10:30) when he says to just pull the pump straight out of the tank. NO YOU DON'T! I'll keep saying this: "it corkscrews out"! Pulling it straight out puts unnecessary strain on and can damage the hoses. I made a crack on the main high pressure hose (from the pump to the top of the housing) worse on mine by initially following that advice. On the third pull out of the tank (initially thought I hadn't seated it properly), I had my technique sorted and also found the problem! You don't need your own marks on the housing either, there's a small triangle at about 4 or 5 o'clock on the housing top that lines up with another on on the tank top. The big plastic ring nut that holds it all in and seals the tank gets tightened "tight". Mark it of you want. I didn't. I'll also confirm Pauls advice (of mine) that you don't overtighten the long bolt on installation. The nut is captive in a weakish plastic housing on the bottom of the in-tank receiver under where the metal-rubber gasket mates, and its very easy to overtighten and end up with it spinning in the housing. Not easy or cheap to solve, so don't do it! I'm sure Audi has a torque spec for this, but if you have good feel when tightening, you can tighten the long bolt by hand until the rubber starts to bind/compress on the metal rubber gasket. At this point put your spanner on it and gently tighten until the "squishyness" of the rubber becomes solid hard. Stop there - you have now squashed the rubber flat onto the metal part of the gasket, and that is as good a seal as you are going to get. Any tighter risks disaster, and won't achieve anything.
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Cheers Marty ____________________ Current: 2001 Audi S8 - Brilliant Black with Black interior, C5 RS6 rims (whenever I actually put them on...), Solar Sunroof, Tinted side and rear glass, RNS-D, Grom, Bose, clunky old phone in arm rest! 2002 Audi S8 - Project Replacement head coming arrived thanks to MJ Silver with Black interior. All features as the '01, with the 'S' mode auto shifter. Dodgey rear tint (need to find a way to get rid of that). Family: 2009 Volvo XC90 V8 R Design - has a louder more obnoxious exhaust than the S8, sounds great! Love this thing - Q7 was double the price, and certainly not double the car! Sold: 1997 Audi A4 - Hamilton's Club Sport, Achat Grey (will miss the old girl) Last edited by 27litres; 1st July 2020 at 01:27 AM. |
#19
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I ran into another issue during my fuel pump job. For some odd reason I can't get the banjo fuel line square when I'm trying to start threading in the banjo bolt . Has anyone run into this problem?
Last edited by Audifan; 9th November 2020 at 10:07 PM. Reason: switched picture to attachment |
#20
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Yeah thats tricky to line up. I find its easier to push the union down on to the pump body while getting the banjo to catch as thats the best chance of getting it parallel with the threads.
One other thing is to make sure the ribs on the black plastic nut aren't fouling the hard line, as they can stop it sitting flat. It looks like you may have one sitting right under the hard line, in which case just try to move the nut 1/4" way or the other to give a bit more room. |
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