Coolant temp a steady 105 Deg?

[MikkiJayne]

Mine was misfiring and throwing cam sensor codes, but it had a nasty cheap coil packs and cam sensor so I have no idea what the root of the problem was. It was a very sick puppy However, even with the belt that loose there is no visible valve damage which is remarkable. The hydraulic damper on mine had failed and was completely compressed - there's no spring left in it at all.

Is there some weight to the pulley when you turn it by hand? Mine had almost no resistance since the impeller had fallen off, but rattled when rotating it.

Rather surprised at the comments on Audiworld claiming that's normal

[laketahoequattro]

I re-adjusted the timing. All slack from upper belt is gone. I also replaced the viscous fan and serpentine tensioner. I am still over heating and the noise is still there haha. I have not yet ruled out a large trapped air bubble. May have my buddy's shop do a pressurized coolant fill and bleed. But not sure that is really necessary just yet.

Here is an interesting clue. As days go by my coolant has been hovering around 102. Spikes to 108 or so when beating on it. My heat has improved inside the vehicle from being able to turn the fan from only level 4 to like level 6 with normal driving. I have been monitoring the output air temperatures on the HVAC special settings. (however my left broken vent flap makes he drivers side 10degC colder than passenger vent)

When I was going down a very long steep mountain, I was engine braking for the most part and I noticed my heat was 100%. I turned the heat up to full blast and the heat maintained 100% HOT. For the record the engine also decreased temperature to the 93.

So there is some correlation between coolant flow upon deceleration/engine braking and my over heating issue and the flow thru the heater cores... Thats all I got for now.

Edit: The CFs are now 2.0 and -5 respectively. No real changes in timing. I must add that the car runs great. Especially at my current elevation, wish I was not concerned about it.

[Mechcanico Lee]

WOW ! still having trouble , couple of things spring to mind were you say you where going down hill under engine braking ..........

The cambelt will go tight on the other side of the run (the side with the hydrulic tensioner ) under engine braking ,thus putting more tension on the water pump i would think .

Have you definatly done the belt by the book , is the hydrulic tensioner working correctly , did you take it off put it in a vice and compress it to get the pin in , there is a lot of weight on it .....you have to turn the vice handle quite hard to get the damper piston in to put the pin through it .

Previously with the belt slack could the drive /no drive condition to the water pump loosened up the impeller on the shaft , when the engine is under a braking condition and not pushing against the water as hard as a under load condition perhaps the drive of the impeller is good at that time . If it was air in the system going down hill would put the heater matrix at the highest point in the car , air always wants to go to the highest point so in theory the matrx would have air in it and you would not get good heat in the car and you say heating was great going down hill

Bit like if you have a water leak on a car say on the radiator as the level drops first thing that you normally see is the heater getting poor on heat because normally it is the highest part of the cooling system and there is no water flow through

Bit of a brain tester this one .................

[laketahoequattro]

Yes all fingers are pointing to a bad water pump. I am assuming it is spinning on the shaft and being funky. For now I am going to put her in the garage till the summer. Maybe I will start searching for the s8 engine I want to put in it anyways

[SilverS8]

Following this closely as my FL S8 overheated today when in slow traffic.
It showed 115-120 and i could hear the extra fan turn on(for the first time in 4,5 years) The strange thing was that when arriving at the house and opened the hood the top of the engine(intake manifold) was way colder that it usually has been from my recollection..

One difference from you problem is that i have plenty of heat in the Cabin..

[laketahoequattro]

See that is a weird symptom. Such as that I would defiantly think it was your CTS

[laketahoequattro]

Took it up to redline this morning after the car had been sitting for 3 days. Got CEL, it was for P1522 and P1519 (camshaft adjustment) both at the same time. No other codes. Cleared codes, drove it 60 miles up to redline several times and codes never came back. Very weird.

[SilverS8]

Not to Hijack your Thread in any way��

Scanned the car yesterday with VCDS, no codes..
I had the car idling yesterday and with full speed/Heat on the clinate it was steady at a 105 degrees in VCDS. If i reduce climate speed/reduce heat it sneaks up to 115-120 and the megafab kicks in and i returns to 100-105.

When driving it heats up normally and it has taken apx 25-30 min before it passes 90 deg(most likely because i then hit traffic) This is with fan at 75% and max heat on.

Since the circulation is good(had over 40 deg in the cabin today) i would assume i'm looking at a broken thermostat.. But at the same time, a non opening thermostat would stop heat from circulating into the cabin? and wouldnt normally a fully open thermostat make the engine run colder?

Bear in mind that outside temp here is between 5-7 C.
��

EDIT : Checked the radiator just now when vcds is showing 110 degrees.. Its "luke" warm on the top (1/4) and bitter cold on the bottom(3/4)

[Mechcanico Lee]

The thermostat only closes off the radiator when it's closed , you will still get heat in the cabin via the water pump action .

Your symptoms sound like non opening thermostat or only opening a little .

[SilverS8]

Originally Posted by Mechcanico Lee

The thermostat only closes off the radiator when it's closed , you will still get heat in the cabin via the water pump action .

Your symptoms sound like non opening thermostat or only opening a little .

Hmm.. so water for the climate does not take its way around the radiator at all?

My thread on this issue to avoid thread hijack