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D3 - Interior Electrics Airbags, Sensors, climate modules, instrument clusters, switches etc |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#31
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Agreed,
I need to run through the settings for HVAC on VAGCOM, its just finding all the right block data so I can confirm the range of movement is correct. Also my laptop battery decided it would not last longer than 3 minutes on a full charge so had to order another one. I am not sure if I need to run through output tests for the flaps to move full range and reset or if I need to go through basic settings and reset one of the blocks? |
#32
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Well all the motors seem to be move on the HVAC system, I have spent far to long taking glove boxes off and removing knee rolls today!
Now the top radiator hose is warm, coolant levels are fine but I have another question. By the firewall to the left of the cabin filter next to the brake resovior; there is two coolant pipes. They have a bleed screw on top of each pipe, I have bled both and there is no air. Question is one is cold and one is warm, is this correct? I am trying to work out if these come from the heater core and one cold pipe indicates a blocked heater matrix? |
#33
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Snap mine is now behaving in exactly the same way and I have no idea why .. It takes ages to warm up
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#34
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I went through everything in the end.
Checked all the motors, flaps and electrics and all were good. Replaced the water pump and valves for new also with no success (The ones removed were good in the end). I topped up the coolant and went through VAGCOM and reset everything then proceeded with going through all the basic settings test to check it all works which it did. All still with no luck. I came to the conclusion in the end that the Heater matrix (x2) were blocked and needed to be cleaned or flushed. At that time I fell out of love with the car after pouring nearly £2000 into it over 6 months and sold it. I went on to buy the current D2 S8. The new owner got back to me and he said unfortunately the problem was the heater matrixes but they needed replacement not flushing. |
#35
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I think mine may also be the matrix in need of a back flush perhaps. . I don't like the sound of changing it completely .. its rather nippy though..
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#36
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Fixed . Working perfectly now it's great really hot now ..
Back flushed the matrix and low and behold perfect heat now no waiting 2 hours for it to trickle through on the cold early morning starts |
#37
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Great result and a lot cheaper than replacing both the heater matrix's.
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#38
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Did you also do a coolant change while doing the matrix flush? You've a 4.2?? Does that need to be refilled by the vacuum method? I recently did a matrix flush on the A4. Lots of heat now!
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Matt 2004 A8 3.7q, 1998 A4 2.8q, 1994 Coupe 2.8q SORN, Last edited by mattylondon; 14th January 2015 at 09:52 PM. |
#39
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No vacuum no just fill up. Full heat on and bleed nipples open all the way
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#40
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Hi There,
I think i've got a similar thing.....I've a 15min drive to work and get no heat. Engine dial is up at 90 within a few minutes of driving. The auto setting seems to keep the fan on low, if I turn it up I can get a *little* heat, but MEH! I went on a long drive at the weekend and EVENTUALLY we got heat and even to the point that it was too warm. So it's obviously taking AGES to get heat to the cabin. VCDS doesn't seem to show any faults with the system (i've got a few on others) apart from the rear heater matrix's not working and they've not worked since getting the car and I don't recall last year a lack of heat being a problem Any ideas from this ??? Lee
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Current : 2005 A8 Sport 4.2 V8 D3 - LPG working! Previous : 1998 S8 PF 4.2 V8 D2 - Gearbox died ~120k 2002 S8 FL 4.2 40v V8 D2 Prins LPG - Engine valves met pistons ~230K Also : 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0l (Post Apocalyptic makeover) 2003 Brabus Smart FourTwo (should sell) 2003 Mazda Rx8 2.3 (might sell) |
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