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Old 12th September 2018, 11:53 AM
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The_Laird The_Laird is offline
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Default Engine mount (?) part number

Hi All

This is a photo of an engine mount (?) on my 2002 S8. It's at the front of the engine on the driver's side and is clearly in need of replacement! The photo is taken from the open bonnet. I have a little knock at slow speeds on rough road surfaces from around this area, so I suspect this might be the culprit. A proper description and part number would be most helpful.

Thanks, Jim
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2002 Final Edition S8. Ebony black with Silver Grey leather and myrtle wood trim.
Current mods: solar sun roof, 20mm rear spacers, 15 mm on front, red brembo callipers, 6k headlights, rear view camera, engine remap, alloy dash dial rings, alloy navi rings, tt/phaeton pedal upgrade, (and custom matching foot rest) dension ipod interface & parrot hands free kit (both fully hidden), av input, tv in motion switched thro' PF switch in blanking plug right of steering column, Audi 'quattro' sill covers, repositioned centre console switches, radio clock, .
Planned mods: auto-dimming rear view mirror, dash cam (as steamship's), fit the ski hatch, refit philips drl's (or maybe not - nope, definitely not - horrible botch!).
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Old 12th September 2018, 12:57 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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4D0199267 'rubber mounting', about £50 iirc.

When you change it, remove some shims from underneath the body bracket so that the bracket sits neatly on the top of the mounting. The reason it fails is that from the factory the bracket is shimmed to the right height but after 15 years all the main engine mounts have sagged so the engine sits 3-4mm lower than when it was made and it tears this mounting in half. Put plenty of penetrating oil in to the mounting bracket threads from above a day before you start since the bracket collects water and the steel bolts go rusty.
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Old 12th September 2018, 01:19 PM
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The_Laird The_Laird is offline
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Thanks MJ.

Is it an easy DIY job to remove and replace it, or should I trundle down to my local Audi indy?
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2002 Final Edition S8. Ebony black with Silver Grey leather and myrtle wood trim.
Current mods: solar sun roof, 20mm rear spacers, 15 mm on front, red brembo callipers, 6k headlights, rear view camera, engine remap, alloy dash dial rings, alloy navi rings, tt/phaeton pedal upgrade, (and custom matching foot rest) dension ipod interface & parrot hands free kit (both fully hidden), av input, tv in motion switched thro' PF switch in blanking plug right of steering column, Audi 'quattro' sill covers, repositioned centre console switches, radio clock, .
Planned mods: auto-dimming rear view mirror, dash cam (as steamship's), fit the ski hatch, refit philips drl's (or maybe not - nope, definitely not - horrible botch!).
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Old 12th September 2018, 01:36 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Its easy if you have the front end off. I would say the minimum dismantleage is undertray & bumper off and driver's side headlight out. You may need the front end in service position to get to the bracket bolts though.
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Old 12th September 2018, 02:00 PM
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The_Laird The_Laird is offline
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Yep, a trip to my local Audi indy is due then. Thanks again. Wish we lived in the south-west!
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2002 Final Edition S8. Ebony black with Silver Grey leather and myrtle wood trim.
Current mods: solar sun roof, 20mm rear spacers, 15 mm on front, red brembo callipers, 6k headlights, rear view camera, engine remap, alloy dash dial rings, alloy navi rings, tt/phaeton pedal upgrade, (and custom matching foot rest) dension ipod interface & parrot hands free kit (both fully hidden), av input, tv in motion switched thro' PF switch in blanking plug right of steering column, Audi 'quattro' sill covers, repositioned centre console switches, radio clock, .
Planned mods: auto-dimming rear view mirror, dash cam (as steamship's), fit the ski hatch, refit philips drl's (or maybe not - nope, definitely not - horrible botch!).
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Old 12th September 2018, 03:49 PM
Regulus Regulus is offline
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Here is a couple of photos to give you a better view, when the front is off
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Old 14th September 2018, 03:43 PM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Laird View Post
Hi All

This is a photo of an engine mount (?) on my 2002 S8. It's at the front of the engine on the driver's side and is clearly in need of replacement! The photo is taken from the open bonnet. I have a little knock at slow speeds on rough road surfaces from around this area, so I suspect this might be the culprit. A proper description and part number would be most helpful.

Thanks, Jim
I have replaced mine twice with used part and I think it needs replacing again. Not sure if it's the second hand parts or my driving that makes rubber to rip off the metal base. At least I only paid £10-15 for second hand parts but might try new part and see how that lasts.

Quote:
When you change it, remove some shims from underneath the body bracket so that the bracket sits neatly on the top of the mounting. The reason it fails is that from the factory the bracket is shimmed to the right height but after 15 years all the main engine mounts have sagged so the engine sits 3-4mm lower than when it was made and it tears this mounting in half. Put plenty of penetrating oil in to the mounting bracket threads from above a day before you start since the bracket collects water and the steel bolts go rusty.
I have to say that I never noticed any shims so removing them could help in future as well if they are still there or they may have been already removed before my ownership.
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  #8  
Old 14th September 2018, 04:24 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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They're often stuck on to the bottom of the bracket with corrosion

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Old 14th September 2018, 11:57 PM
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27litres 27litres is offline
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With those shims/spacers, its almost as if Audi expected that torque mount separation to happen!


MJ, with the tensioner pads, are they doable en-situ, or do you need to remove the cam chain or inlet cam to replace them?
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Old 15th September 2018, 08:38 AM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 27litres View Post
MJ, with the tensioner pads, are they doable en-situ, or do you need to remove the cam chain or inlet cam to replace them?
Both inlet cams have to come out, along with two of the cam caps on the exhaust. Right hand side you can do without disturbing the timing belt, but the left hand side sprocket has to come off to get the rear belt cover tinware off so you can remove the tensioner.
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