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  #71  
Old 7th December 2018, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Conan_the_Librarian View Post
If you want to go to the shop in stockings dont let anyone tell you you cant!
How did you know!?
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  #72  
Old 7th December 2018, 11:54 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Originally Posted by funkmiester View Post
I did spend 15 years in the plastics packaging industry and have a degree in material science and was the first person in the UK to extrude PLA on an industrial scale
That's pretty cool

What do you want for the Delta? I've been looking at the Kossel-based machines on ebay just as a curiosity. I don't really need another machine that big (the CR-10S is 300x300x400) but it'd be interesting to have a play with one. I'm planning to build a Prusa i3 clone with direct-coupled extruder next, and then a Hypercube of some description. Addi(c)tive manufacturing

I was going to try a Kinect for scanning too, but having drawn the footrest in Fusion360 I'm inclined to just try drawing a foglight grille as well. How hard can it be?
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  #73  
Old 8th December 2018, 09:01 AM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
I'm inclined to just try drawing a foglight grille as well. How hard can it be?
I imagine you'd take a totally different approach to the original. Sounds really interesting.
After all, it was designed to be injection-moulded with a specific material, you're using a totally different process.

The only real objectives would be:
1. The front looks the same, or very similar to, the original.
2. It fits properly (around light, into hole in bumper etc.)
3. Allows appropriate airflow and is robust enough
5. A secure fixing method, not necessarily the same as the original!

Remember, Neil currently has my spare one-piece pair for scanning if you need any for comparison/measurement.
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  #74  
Old 8th December 2018, 09:23 AM
Markiii Markiii is offline
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How goes the brake brace?
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  #75  
Old 8th December 2018, 09:43 AM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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It needs to be redesigned so that the plastic cover fits. I might have another crack at that over the weekend since I am doing brake things on the manual swap so its a good time to try it.
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  #76  
Old 22nd December 2018, 01:54 PM
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MJ
We have started to use a reel of Dremel and it is pretty crap. The fibre itself varies in fragility before we do anything with it. I purchased this reel from Box when I bought the CR10.
What do you recommend fibre wise?
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  #77  
Old 22nd December 2018, 03:11 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Steadytech from Box is a good basic PLA filament at £20 a roll.

If you want something a bit nicer then Fillamentum do some great plain PLA, and some amazing metallics. Rapunzel Silver is one of my favourites.

Proto Pasta HTPLA is fantastic stuff, also in plain or metallic. This can also be annealed in the oven to increase strength.

For real wow-factor, Polyalchemy Elixir is very special.

Ziro make a rather nice marble-effect filament too.

3D Filaprint are my go-to supplier for filaments. They do Fillamentum, Protopasta, and Polyalchemy, plus many more. They also do an own-brand of cheap PLA but personally I don't rate it much as it's a pain to get it to adhere to the bed. I prefer Steadytech for basic printing. They're great for all the others though. They also have a Filament Sample Outlet which is really handy for getting filaments to play with, without having to buy a full spool.

I've found that the CR-10S can really only print PLA well because of it's PTFE hot-end which can only go to 240 degrees. PETG will print at 230, but not well. ABS will print, but warps and falls off the bed because it won't go hot enough. TPU just won't print at all with the bowden extruder.

I'm contemplating upgrading the CR-10 to an all-metal hotend like the Microswiss, but I'm going to build a Hypercube with an E3D V6 hotend which will overcome a lot of the limitations so I may leave the CR-10 as it is. TBC
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  #78  
Old 22nd December 2018, 04:04 PM
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Thanks, MJ, for the prompt reply.
I'll be stuck until after the Xmas thing now.
I find the Dremel stuff is very inconsistent in quality. Seems good enough for small things but as soon as you try to go higher it fails, and what it does print has weak interlayer strength. That’s posh talk for splitting between layers.
I’ll follow your advice and try the 3D Filaprint people.
Meanwhile have a nice break and enjoy Christmas.



Different subject but I’ll mention it while I have your attention.
I’ve bought a Sphero mini. It is an “App-enabled Robotic Ball” The kids and the cats (especially the cats) love it. Bit expensive for what it is but hey-ho it’s fun.
Talking cats do you know about the “siliconhell.com” website. Operated by serious cat lovers.
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2014 A8L D4 4.0TFSI Gold (Sticker says "Beige") Can't leave you in a black smoke cloud anymore..
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Last edited by tc4332; 22nd December 2018 at 04:12 PM.
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  #79  
Old 22nd December 2018, 05:16 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Have you tried increasing the print temperature? PLA prints at 200, but its not very strong at that. I tend to print at 205 most of the time, and if I want something extra strong I'll drop the speed to 40mm/s and increase temperature to 210-220 depending on the filament. Steadytech is nice and strong at 210-215. Protopasta HTPLA can print at up to 250 for max strength according to their web site, but the CR-10 will melt if you go that high!
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  #80  
Old 22nd December 2018, 05:43 PM
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Thanks MJ.
Will try this evening.
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