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  #31  
Old 24th January 2017, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1781cc View Post
I'd say probably not, I replaced the top mounts on my first S4 in order to solve it, but it didn't, its to do with the hardening of the rubber I believe, but I'm no expert, only what I experienced is what I can comment on.

The Track car has super pro racing top mounts (polyurethane) and they squeak like mad, I think its a weight thing combined with temperature. If the issue was something age related I think it wouldn't go away in summer or when the temperature moves up

EDIT: Just seen Conquistador's post - maybe thats why mine didn't disappear with new top mounts. Although that said, the TT has recently had an R32 roll bar fitted and still squeaks so maybe its a bit of both?
Not good

EDIT: yeah, the noise is at the top nowhere near the antiroll bar. I know they can creak as well, but not in this case
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2015 A3 S line 1.4 TFSI - for the missus to keep her away from my car.
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Last edited by M-A8; 24th January 2017 at 01:28 PM.
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  #32  
Old 24th January 2017, 06:07 PM
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What an amazing car and write up as always, Marcin - need to come round and have a look sometime soon! Hope you're well
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  #33  
Old 24th January 2017, 06:14 PM
snapdragon snapdragon is offline
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When my first ARB creaked, I could disconnect the ARB links behind each wheel and rotate it back and forth in the top mounts. It would creak and judder. I rocked the bar and moved it sideways and applied some silicone spray before sliding it back to centre - but it only worked for a week or so. I would probably try Araldite if I did it again to stop the bar sliding in the rubber.

Audi replaced the ARB for about £200 (need whole new bard as the top mounts are built-in). I had one winter of silence but the follwing one was back to creaking. It sounds like ship's timbers creaking behind /below the front centre console.
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  #34  
Old 24th January 2017, 07:59 PM
Audidothat Audidothat is offline
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Mine is exactly the same as described, sounds like HMS Victory for the first couple of minutes, especially in this cold weather.
Soon goes and I haven't noticed any extra roll, bounce or movement when driving.
Cold start drowns it out anyway!
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  #35  
Old 24th January 2017, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audidothat View Post
Mine is exactly the same as described, sounds like HMS Victory for the first couple of minutes, especially in this cold weather.
Soon goes and I haven't noticed any extra roll, bounce or movement when driving.
Cold start drowns it out anyway!
You'll have to ask Conan the Librarian to verify the sounds of old creaking timbers in HMS Victory! I understand that he was Nelson's cabin boy!
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  #36  
Old 25th January 2017, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David's8 View Post
You'll have to ask Conan the Librarian to verify the sounds of old creaking timbers in HMS Victory! I understand that he was Nelson's cabin boy!
he was called Roger in those days!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XIIO-fyUEw
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  #37  
Old 21st February 2017, 03:11 PM
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Found some time over last couple of weekends to clear some of the ''To Do things'' from one of my list

- replace both power steering hoses (coolant->rack / coolant->reservoir), inc. flush with new oil.
- remove snapped bolt on the T piece and fit x8 new bolts
- air leak - new throttle body to T piece gaskets x2 inc. x8 new bolts
- replace all x12 manifold bolts in order as per Audi's manual
- ''deep clean'' fuel cap area + new cap and fuel door stickers
- new oil cap
- fit new number plate she got from Father Christmas
- investigate engine oil leak
- investigate coolant leak
- update interior, door and boot lighting with led replacements
- ''sticky'' sunroof only from fully open
- lower suspension (VCDS)
- investigate boot opening issue which requires ignition off in order to open the boot (something I have messed up somehow and can't undo it)
- new wheels
- good wash+clay+detailer


Power steering hoses.
I've discovered recently a leak on both steering hoses (both coolant side) after checking steering fluid level which showed below minimum.
Removing original clips and putting two new per hose has solved the problem instantly. They were Halfords Fuel line slips 15-17mm.
It's only then I've realised that one of them was a bit perished and I didn't like it. Thankfully it was the easiest and the shortest hose, but because there was a second hose going straight to the rack side I just couldn't replace one so I've done exactly what Del did. It's only thanks to his thread and help I managed to complete this without any major problems.

First fix






Perished hose



These are the hoses I've replaced



Audi's top engineering when car went for a new steering rack.
To be honest with you, I've tried separating this hose with clips off and I bloody could not do it plus I found very quickly a point of no point of splitting it so I left it like that
It was a very good joint.





Feeding thru was actually ''fun''? Dont know if you say this things today




Blue roll will hold the fluid in the system ready for flushing

It was a very late one due to not starting anything properly until around 12-1pm, but that day I just had to have everything done no matter what, couldn't deal with the fact of waking up to this again especially it was the cold 6 degrees day, from evening down to 2degrees. Plus I wanted to at least run the car for 30min to get all the air out, go thru sequences of full lock to full lock many times just I can leave only re-assembling for a cold Sunday morning.





New coolant to reservoir hose



I did put a brand new clip from Audi on each hose by the coolant side and they were not up to the job to my surprise, so I have doubled here as per original fix but this time 1x oem clip and 1x Halfords per hose and its all good.



It's worth to read the manual here as it states the fluid only should be 2mm above the minimum when cold and half way between Min and Max when at 50 degrees C.






New manifold, T-piece and throttle bodies bolts inc. the one which has snapped due to previous damage or being stretched too far.





Here is the air leak on the throttle body. Had a good clean everywhere and the sealing flanges I have treated with a bit of autosol metal polish.
All sound no more air leak.






Also I have noticed that on my car comparing to Del's I've had a piece of foam missing from behind the fog grill light and couldn't find PN it ETKA as it was keep saying part number unknown. It was the piece circled in the pic and which was protecting the both hoses and their clips by the coolant side.
Only after scrolling down the list I was able to find the correct part number.
£23 and two weeks later it's still on the back order from Germany.






Fuel cap situation, picture speaks for it self. It was like that since I got the car obviously.
Good clean, new fuel cap, but door labels are same as the foam on the back order from Germany so I will just have to wait with polishing the flap from inside and sticking all new labels.
I am well aware that most of you would thing what a ******, new stickers ?? But I also know that there is few of you looking at it and saying that is a Good Job
Silly as it sounds, but it has made a big difference to my very often petrol station visits





FOR ALL OCD GUYS
I have found the way already for the fuel cap to sit horizontally already


New oil cap.
Just took the part number from a first model of V10 R8 and £26 later it was on the car - YES David, the correct way
It does look more like its the right place for her, not the oem black boring cap.




Found the tiny coolant leak - alternator. This is still in progress, but it will be done soon because I just can't stand leaks !




Engine oil leak.
This one was a strange one because of the airflow thru the bottom grill above the engine under tray could easily create this image of leak by just blowing around the leaking power steering oil.



So I washed the entire bottom of the engine and sprayed a lot of brake cleaner. I run the car for well over an hour and no oil so far, but after test drive bottom was covered in a little of oil again. So 3 more cans of brake cleaner later, spraying it from the top, both side and from the bottom as well to wash down entire engine block without the engine's under tray underneath I went for another test drive and nothing, another-still nothing, few days later with engine tray already fitted I have shoved the camera thru and still dry so it must have been power steering oil sitting somewhere.


Sticky sun roof situation.
Sill haven't looked into the tracks system yet so dont know what lubrication does it need and where. Sun roof will stop near the closed position and reverse back but only from fully open position.
Unless something has unfolded somewhere at the back and glass is catching it when goes fully open and drags it almost to closed position where it jams and reverses back. Need to have a proper look and stick camera there as well maybe.


Limited boot opening.
Bare with me here. In the past until I was VCDSing few weeks ago I was bale to open/unlock the boot with either engine running, just ignition on or engine and ignition off. I was able to do it by pressing the button on the remote control or button by the door pocket or by the grab handle switch on the boot lid. Simples.

Now in order to open the boot engine and ignition must be off just so I can open the boot, either by remote, door pocket button or by the boot.
Try to figure that one out.
Been comparing the old and new coding/logs and all is as it was before so this is still ongoing at present.

>>>>>
Also, if anyone knows, my previous A8 I was able to fire up with a start button, leave the car and lock it either by remote or kessy handle and walk away while engine was running and car locked.
I can't get this function to work on the S8 and I looked briefly thru all modules and they adaptation channels, coding and basic settings.
>>>>>

So there was finally time to swap the interior bulbs for leds as the oem look is really bad, outdated and sad yellow.
Went with these SMDs for door's flood lights and boot
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3318541754...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



...and CREEs for interior.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1421030176...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



Big difference and the CREEs are dimmable.







Here are some temp readings for CREE ones. Other ones stayed cool as well just haven't got the picture.






Before going to fit new wheels I have also decided to lower her a little via VCDS. A process which comparing to my previous A8 was a much more time consuming. On A8 I've used the coding and then calibrated the suspension few times and it was all sound.
Not sure if this is only like that with sport suspension, but few times I've had to pull the fuse out for the ECU over night and endless attempts to calibrate the suspension over few days. I found out in the meantime that ECU will temporarily brick it self after few failed calibrations, then unit needs resetting and sometimes left for few hours, then for the ECU to tick all the boxes and allow another calibration a drive of min 5-10miles was required - I did 80miles to calibrate mine over few days.
First was getting one side to lower accordingly to the coding and calibration as it was sitting 10mm higher than the other. This was a pain, so I started putting default values for the front axle so it does nothing and concentrated on levelling the rear axle which after many attempts has finally came to only 2mm difference between the left and right wheel. Then I managed to level the front axle but this time I have scrapped the coding and went back to default coding and started using overestimated calibration values which has levelled the both front wheels being 1mm from each other but couldnt take both of them further 10mm lower and I'm still stuck at this point. The original 10mm drop using coding has remain but this is not enough so thats were I got stuck. Thats was nearly a week ago and I've done some driving so will be attempting the front again soon until I get what I want out of it.
...and after failings with lowering the front using just calibration method I went back to coding method and thats where I am now.

So, not only I find the wheel arch gap as ridiculous on S8 as on the A8, but also wheel's offset as well. Very weird look when you look at stock S8 from some angles. Typical sedan look with wheels inside the arches.

So I went with ET29 9J and kept 273/35's all round and it couldn't look any better to my taste, apart the frnt going down further 10mm

Here are some shots of car being partially lowered after a good wash, some detailer, new V10 plate and fresh set of wheels.













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2006 D3 S8 5.2 V10
Ceramic Brakes, Bang&Olufsen, DTV, DAB, Rear Camera, BT, TPMS, Soft Close, Auto Boot, AMI , 4 Zone AC, Home Link, All Electric Blinds, Fingerprint, Ski Hatch, Black Extended Leather, Heated Sport Seats, Alacantra, Carbon Trim inc Aluminium Pack 2.
2015 A3 S line 1.4 TFSI - for the missus to keep her away from my car.
Standard S-line equipment, no extras.
2006 D3 A8 3.7 V8 - SOLD but not forgotten

Last edited by M-A8; 22nd February 2017 at 11:03 AM.
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  #38  
Old 21st February 2017, 03:38 PM
mattylondon mattylondon is offline
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Great write up as always Marcin

The boot release issue, I think it's something to do with the selective central locking. What is the current coding in Adaptation Channels 1-4 in 46-Central Conv.?
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  #39  
Old 21st February 2017, 05:35 PM
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Phenominominominal attention to detail as always, Marcin

...although the last two photos show somewhat less attention to parking bays
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2001 A8 D2 FL 3.7 Q - LPG Conversion, Engine: AKC, Gearbox:FBB, Colour:LY5X Aqua Blue pearl effect, Interior:WJ light beige/dark beige valcona leather with burr walnut inserts

My DIY jobs - Replaced alarm horn, Replaced Coolant Temp sensor, Updated RNS-D firmware, Installed Reversing Camera and Digital TV, Dashcam Installation, Retrofitted Rear Blinds, Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror, Chrome Boot Struts

Sold! 2008 S8 D3 5.2 V10 - Engine: BSM, Gearbox:KLW, Colour:LY7F Suzuka Grey Pearl Effect, Interior:Black/Black with Silver/Black valcona leather with carbon atlas inserts, Bang & Olufsen, Heated windscreen, Soft-close doors, TV, DAB, AMI, Quad Zone, Auto Boot, Auto dim Mirrors, Keyless entry, PDC with rearview camera, AFS II Headlights

My DIY jobs - Fan Jet Windscreen Washers, Retrofitted Electric Side Blinds
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  #40  
Old 21st February 2017, 05:41 PM
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Cheers Matt
I will look all them channels again, but I never went there on the first place. I was playing with CAN Gateway Installation list when dealing with activating additional Media Players.
Will go and check it anyway, its so frustrating when you fired up the car and need to put something in the boot, key out-open boot-start the engine again.
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2006 D3 S8 5.2 V10
Ceramic Brakes, Bang&Olufsen, DTV, DAB, Rear Camera, BT, TPMS, Soft Close, Auto Boot, AMI , 4 Zone AC, Home Link, All Electric Blinds, Fingerprint, Ski Hatch, Black Extended Leather, Heated Sport Seats, Alacantra, Carbon Trim inc Aluminium Pack 2.
2015 A3 S line 1.4 TFSI - for the missus to keep her away from my car.
Standard S-line equipment, no extras.
2006 D3 A8 3.7 V8 - SOLD but not forgotten
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