Its a little cold in the D3

[Mechcanico Lee]

Yes does look like good quality , as a rule in an un powered condition the valves are sprung so water can flow ....so if you had any sort of wiring fault or power failure to the valves you will still have heat for demisting purposes .

Perhaps the pumping motor uses magnetic attraction to spin an impeller on the other side of the case ,because if the engine water pump was running at the same time could this over speed the electric pump ?? just thinking a loud here .

These type of valves fail on BMW’s quite a bit , but when you take them apart the valves are normally rusted to death and the seals have rotted away and jamming the valve up , yours look quite fresh there Snap D .

Thanks for taking it apart so we can see how it works ....always good to have an understanding how things work

[snapdragon]

Originally Posted by Mechcanico Lee

Thanks for taking it apart so we can see how it works ....always good to have an understanding how things work

Thanks matey, will try and go a bit further in tomorrow but was pushed for time. Never seen this waterpump/magnet arrangement so would be interested to see further in. The E28 BMW I had in the 1990s had heat in the cabin all the time the valve block was shocking quality in comparison but was made 30 years ago I suppose.

Mine has done 260,000 miles so can't grumble. The pump runs from idle until 2000 rpm according to Self Study Guide, I can see why, without it that is when the heat output becomes feeble. It also runs with residual heat function and I concur this stopped giving heat for more than 30 seconds.

The pump will also pull enough warm water on a winter's morningto pre heat the cabin, but only if the Aux heater is turned on manually via holding ON/OFF on climate panel to make it come on without ignition and selecting HI + HI on temps. If making the AUX heater come on via the timer menu (activated via VCDS) then this pump does not come on and no heat is pulled up which is a shame. I have the extra pump V55? to fit to the Webasto but will probably never get around to getting the other parts and fitting it.

[ulfilias]

Originally Posted by Mechcanico Lee

Yes does look like good quality , as a rule in an un powered condition the valves are sprung so water can flow ....so if you had any sort of wiring fault or power failure to the valves you will still have heat for demisting purposes

Hmm....If that's the case, why pull the solinoids out, just remove the power connector ???

Or am I missing something ?

Lee

[Mechcanico Lee]

Good question ........When the valves are closed or semi closed in some cases the o rings start to disintegrate and the shuttle valves cannot get to the open position , they get jammed up in there bores , they only have quite a light spring that returns them to the open position .

[tc4332]

I have only had the 8 for a few years but I am still learning.
Thanks Snap for the enlightenment about heating the car without ignition.
Decided to get out of my pit early today and try it, magic. I can now warm the car up without the expense and work needed to fit the extra gubbins neededto modify the Webasto. On the coaches I drive there is a button that when pressed the Webasto fires up and warms the whole vehicle up to a decent temperature. It's good enough to defrost al the windows and when waiting for hours it keeps me warm and toasty without running the engine.

[tc4332]

Now that I've had my porridge and a cuppa the grey cells have started to work a little.
The ON/OFF button in the climate control must have a pair of contacts that are closed when the button is pressed. Is there a way to locate these contacts and connect a set of relay contacts across them? I'm thinking that if this is possible a remote could be added to switch the Webasto on from indoors. I have a remote TX/RX pair that has a relay built into the receiver that could do this. Something like £5 from the Chinese gang.

[Architex_mA8tey]

Originally Posted by tc4332

The ON/OFF button in the climate control must have a pair of contacts that are closed when the button is pressed. Is there a way to locate these contacts and connect a set of relay contacts across them? I'm thinking that if this is possible a remote could be added to switch the Webasto on from indoors. I have a remote TX/RX pair that has a relay built into the receiver that could do this. Something like £5 from the Chinese gang.

I think in the green menu you can enable a series of timers that you can set so that your webasto will preheat the car at a desired time, probably just needs enabling and then setting up?

[tc4332]

Spot on Neil, but for practical use next best thing to useless.
Bit unusual for the Germans but not been followed through. It is a one shot setup, you can only select one of the timers at a time and as they are date as well as time sensitive you need to set it up for each and every time you need it. No good if you park up in reasonable weather and overnight the temperature plummets.
When you fit V55 and the extra bits to the Webasto it is also a good time to wire in a remote so that when you look out of the bedroom window and see an all white car you just click your remote and the car warms up.
I'm just thinking about a cheap and easy way to save me tramping out to the 8 in my dressing gown, the neighbours rottweiller is frightened enough already.
One day I'll tell you the tale of when I invented hazard vwarning lights and the Deutsche Polizei borrowed the idea.

[snapdragon]

The timers don't seem to work, they fire up the webasto, but the water is not pumped by V50 as it is not activated and so it soon gets up to temp and goes to minimum output.

There is a vacant socket with a blanking plug on the webasto for a V55 pump which is not fitted as standard and is hard to retrofit.

Manually turning the climate on does start the V50 pump. It's ashame it works this way and would be inetrested if others find the same.

[tc4332]

I tried your way this morning Snap and it seemed to work.
Now waiting for an all white morning to put it to the test. Will let you know.
In the meantime I'm trying to work out where I can fix my remote receiver.