WITW - Andrew's Irish Green

[HPsauce]

No point in having a filter if you can't clean/replace it.

[Ronin]

Originally Posted by HPsauce

No point in having a filter if you can't clean/replace it.

It will get the car through the 3 year warranty period on long life intervals, thats all they care for.

I have removed them on my 2.8 as per MJ's advice and have no regrets, the £37 chinese tensioner is holding up well.

[J i m s t e r]

Good to know about the 4.0T engine, it's what I was thinking of if I went with an Audi when I next need a vehicle.

[HPsauce]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Its also what kills the turbos in the 4.0TT. They have a gauze in the turbo oil feed to stop particles going through the turbos. Instead, the particles clog the filter and stop oil going through the turbos which kills them in short order. Another £10K repair. The US has a recall for it, presumably due to the threat of a class action suit, but Audi UK don't care and refuse to do anything about it or even contribute to repair costs.

Is this related? Recall Oil Strainer Turbos - Recall code 21H7 https://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?p=965710#p965710
Seems to have just gone "live" in UK!

[Nognar]

Thats really interesting to read, looks like as you say the recall is now live in the UK for the 4.0TT.

Handy to know as a D4 S8 would be an excellent daily driver.

[steamship]

Originally Posted by HPsauce

Seems to have just gone "live" in UK!

I wonder what exactly they'll do on those engines where the filters are clogged, and have partially starved the turbos of oil. Will they just fit new filters and send the owner on their way, and leave them in the lurch when the turbos fail?

And what about those owners on this side of the pond that have already had the substantial expense of having to replace their turbos due to a problem that Audi have been aware of for some time!

[MikkiJayne]

I did the bank 2 tensioner last night - that was also in perfect condition, so filter removed and new pads fitted, then back together



The front crank seal was weeping a little so that needs changing



Pull the bushing out with a couple of magnetic pick-up tools



Cleaned up ready for the new seal



I made a new tool for fitting the seal as my previous one wouldn't push them in straight. This one pushes the seal properly square by using the sprocket bolt, similar to how the factory tool works, although mine still assembles the seal and bushing together rather than putting the bushing in later.



All done



Torque the new sprocket bolt to 200Nm + 180°, then put the new belt kit on



Ready for the inlet manifold



I discovered some time ago that the factory put sealant on both sides of the inlet manifold gasket, so I do the same.



Manifold back on



It cleaned up quite well



Aux belt rollers back on and the engine is pretty much done for now



Gearbox tomorrow

[steamship]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Pull the bushing out with a couple of magnetic pick-up tools

Does it come out that easily?

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Cleaned up ready for the new seal

Is that part number 077115147A (radial shaft seal), as it seems to be from the old ETKA diagram?

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

All done

Is there a part number for the seal or do you reuse it? Also, does it matter that it's the other way around (text stamped on it but not on photo further up)?

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Torque the new sprocket bolt to 200Nm + 180°, then put the new belt kit on

How do you torque it up to that crazy figure?

[MikkiJayne]

Originally Posted by steamship

Does it come out that easily?

Is that part number 077115147A (radial shaft seal), as it seems to be from the old ETKA diagram?

Is there a part number for the seal or do you reuse it? Also, does it matter that it's the other way around (text stamped on it but not on photo further up)?

How do you torque it up to that crazy figure?

Usually yes. Its clamped between the crank sprocket and oil pump sprocket, so with the crank sprocket removed its basically just a fat washer with some oil film and the oil seal holding it in place. The trick is to pull it off straight. If you pull on one side it binds on the crank and won't come off, hence the two magnet sticks

Yes

The bushing has to be flipped around when replacing the seal so the new seal runs on a new surface, as the old one wears a groove in to the steel. The writing on the front is an imprint from the oil pump sprocket, which was on the back. In theory you'd probably need to replace it by the time the engine is on its 3rd seal, but we probably won't be allowed to burn dino squeezings any more by the time that comes around anyway.

Well, I like my food and I have a long bar 200Nm on a decent torque wrench is easy enough. I then use a 1M breaker bar and do two turns of 90° (I mark the bolt after 200Nm). The engine would simply flip over on to the floor with that much torque so I stand on one leg of the engine stand and push the bar away from me to keep all the effort in the one system.

[HPsauce]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

The writing on the front is an imprint from the oil pump sprocket, which was on the back.

I noticed the "mirror writing" but didn't think about why! Now we know.
Edit: Looking at picture 4 of 12 above you can see where it came from!