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  #91  
Old 1st November 2020, 05:01 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ainarssems View Post
2 things,
1) could it be aged capacitors in TCU that resulting in low voltage error and be replaced and
2) can it be updated from PRND432 to PRNDS with a software update.
1, good idea - worth looking in to

2, yes but I have no idea how. The TCU I'm using is actually an A8 FL1 but it's running S8 FL1 software. But, there is no facility to do that with VCDS and the traditional ECU flashing apps like Nefmoto don't appear to be able to do it either. I wonder if a specialist could read the map directly from the board and then flash it back? It used to be possible to get remaps for these TCUs so there's clearly some way to do it but how is a mystery...

I might open it up and see what's on the board
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  #92  
Old 14th November 2020, 01:16 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Back on this after a little time off for pre-lockdown organising and some other stuff which came up. Working on the bumper this weekend. The first job is to get the bumper supports out.



To remove the rebar from the plastic all these plastic rivets need to come out



We need to save the bracket



and will sacrifice the bolt to do so



Headlight washers out



the hose is clipped in, which can be removed once the rebar is out



with all the rivets out and the headlight washers out, the bar just lifts out



then the headlight washer hose can be unclipped



Cut the heads off the bolts



then unscrew the bracket at the top



and lift out the bracket complete with the shank of the bolt



bumper supports now freed



Bracket in the vise, lots of WD40 on the thread, and mole grips on the shank



The first part is to wind the bolt *in* to the bracket. Doing this, we get clean threads in to the aluminium bracket, and the seized part comes out of the top. This is critical to saving the thread.



You can see the galled aluminium stuck in the thread. If this was forced out this galling would tear the thread out of the bracket and destroy it



Cut off the bad bit, lots more WD40 and then the clean thread of the bolt can be removed with the mole grips.



The other side was more stubborn and needed flats grinding on to the bolt shank to get enough torque on it to break it free



and this is why - the top three threads are stuck to the bolt!





With the bolts out, the threads are cleaned up with a tap, then the brackets can be reattached to the bumper bar

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  #93  
Old 14th November 2020, 03:46 PM
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Loving the detail on this lock-down V2.0 thread. The bumper pictures from the inside have provided a very useful insight into how the headlight washers are rigged up. I'm certainly going to feel more confident at tackling this long-overdue job on my own car. One jet is dry and the other just dribbles. I wish I had a garage like the one at MJ Towers, I'd never leave!
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  #94  
Old 14th November 2020, 07:20 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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That's usually an airlock after the bumper has been off as the pump doesn't run long enough to clear it. Hold the passenger's side jet down while someone operates the wiper control repeatedly until the driver's side pops up, then repeat the other way round, and that should then bleed the system enough for them both to work.
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  #95  
Old 15th November 2020, 12:18 PM
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I've not had the front bumper off during my ownership of the car. I forgot to mention that I'd always thought that electric motors raised the headlight washers but having seen the photos, I now realise that it must be the water pressure. Bearing in mind the Covid-19 situation, I'm going to try to do this on my own, armed with a roll of duct tape! Thanks for the advice.
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  #96  
Old 15th November 2020, 12:36 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Could just be the pump failing or clogged then. It is indeed water pressure which lifts the jets. They have a valve inside which doesn't open the jet until it is fully extended so the water pressure lifts the jet first, then sprays out. With air in the system this compresses such that the valve never opens, and without enough pressure from the motor you see the same effect.

The caps of the jets need to be lifted to unhook them from the jet itself, in order to remove the jets from the bumper. I'll get some pics of that later. Its worth noting that after 20 years the jets take a set to the bumper and so need to go back in exactly the same place if they are removed, otherwise the caps don't close. When a used part is swapped in it can take a fair bit of adjustment to get it to sit properly, plus I find that they need to go in the same position. Putting a right hand jet in the left side or vice versa can be a right pain.
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  #97  
Old 15th November 2020, 01:15 PM
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I admit to being fascinated watching them lift and squirt whilst someone else was operating the windscreen washer stalk and it was probably the valve action that led me to think they were electrically operated. Pump seems to operate well so I suspect crud/blockage. Hopefully I won't have to dismantle anything. Cheers again for this invaluable advice.
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  #98  
Old 21st November 2020, 09:41 AM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Well that explains the no-start issue then The starter interlock contacts have simply fallen off the F125! This was a relatively new switch too.



I replaced the contact carrier with one from a spare switch and reassembled



Now it starts on the key

Spent some time cleaning up all the under bonnet plastic stuff including the headlights





and unfortunately, now its in bits again



While doing the coolant flush I realised there is no flow through the cooling system, apart from the heater which has its own pump. I pulled the thermostat last night and tested that in a pan on the hob and it opens just the same as a known-good one, so it must be a water pump issue. Both pump and stat are new aftermarket, both brands I have used before, so I am rather vexed by it.

I'm going to check flow through the radiator, and assuming that is ok I'll replace the pump with a genuine one and see what happens.

I also have a problem with one of the new front flexi hoses leaking, also a known aftermarket brand. Can't win with this one at the moment
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  #99  
Old 21st November 2020, 01:33 PM
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Its still fighting back?! I thought that it would have learnt by now

An amazing amount of crud has got into that cars nether regions.
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  #100  
Old 21st November 2020, 01:44 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Duff thermostat

I bought a Gates unit since we're trying to limit expenditure on this one, but its either a Chinesium part in a Gates box, or just a straight-up counterfeit because on inspection there are no Gates markings or part numbers on it at all. When I fitted it, I just took it out of the box and put it in the engine, because OE manufacturer. It works in a pan, but not in the car.

Lesson learned. Saved £15 to waste 8 hours
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