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D2 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc. |
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#21
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If i were you i would check out the pads and calipers at the same time. Make sure that the pads are not jammed in the s/steel pad guides and are free to move. If they are not then this will lead to uneven braking /overheating. My wobble under braking was caused by this occuring on one side and made worse by worn arm/suspension bushes. It took complete front caliper refurbishment to sort this fully.
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2002 D2 S8 Ming Blue, Valcona leather, Vavona wood insert, solar sunroof (to be fitted), Heated rear seats, extended leather pack, 18 Avus, ski hatch, Bose, auto dim rear view mirror, rear blind. |
#22
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My D2 braking wobbles on the D3 W12 / S8 brakes turned out to be a combination of the sliders sticking, which were changed and improved things, followed by an on-car skim of the discs which has made everything perfect again now
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Confidence is the feeling you have before you know better . . . . Audi A8 D2 3.7 Quattro Sport 1999 FL - Melange 2nd Place Winner - A8-Freunde Annual German Meet 2012 at Edersee 20" x 9" Bentley GTC Wheels with 385mm W12 Front Discs & Bentley Caliper Covers, Front Lowered on Coilovers, Xenons, Combined DRLs and LED Foglights to modified OEM front fog lamp position, Alcantara/Leather, Full Black Alcantara headlining + pillars and blind shelf, Bespoke Flat Bottomed Sports Steering Wheel, Dark Myrtle Wood, Autodim Mirrors, Bose, Blinds, Digital TV, Ski Hatch, Modified rear exhaust section for extra V8 Burble Audi S8 D2 Final Edition 2002, Avus Silver with Red Leather Interior Tiptronic with Sport mode button, Sony rear entertainment package, Bose sound system, Audi Navigation Plus, 20 inch Final Edition alloys, Full Cat Back Stainless Milltek exhaust, giving a great V8 burble Audi A8L D2 4.2 Petrol with LPG - Ebony Black Audi A8L D4 FL 4.0T Petrol twin turbo - Havana Black Audi A2 1.6 FSi Sport - Dolphin Grey with Votex body kit and Red Leather Interior and some other A8's A8L's and Mercs |
#23
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Before skimming i would suggest you remove the discs and thoroughly clean the mating faces. The use of grease etc is not recommended here as it can introduce alignment issues.
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2002 D2 S8 Ming Blue, Valcona leather, Vavona wood insert, solar sunroof (to be fitted), Heated rear seats, extended leather pack, 18 Avus, ski hatch, Bose, auto dim rear view mirror, rear blind. |
#24
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i had wobbling at both front and rear when I purchased car 7 years ago. It was especially noticeable when drawing at 70mph on motorways.
Changing calipers, disks and pads to new genuine Audi has completely removed the problem.
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I'd rather drive on left |
#25
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Jeez, Sergei, using your phone is bad enough but drawing is taking it a bit far. You really ought to get a dashcam for that
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2002 D2 S8 Ming Blue, Valcona leather, Vavona wood insert, solar sunroof (to be fitted), Heated rear seats, extended leather pack, 18 Avus, ski hatch, Bose, auto dim rear view mirror, rear blind. |
#26
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i just hate this iPhone
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I'd rather drive on left |
#27
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But i do agree that this wobble on braking is generally cured by brake caliper/pads/discs refurbishment or renewal and, therefore, is generally initiated by braking issues such as stuck (or sticky) pads and the wobble made worse by worn suspension arms/bushes. I do not subscribe to the "warped discs" hypothesis as there is no evidence (that I have seen or found) that shows that the discs can or have been warped.
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2002 D2 S8 Ming Blue, Valcona leather, Vavona wood insert, solar sunroof (to be fitted), Heated rear seats, extended leather pack, 18 Avus, ski hatch, Bose, auto dim rear view mirror, rear blind. |
#28
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Quote:
in my case the problem varied according to such thing as...who was driving [eg SWMBO ] ,time of year , type of terrain so I decided to try a new brake pad material ....the new ferodo non polluting material used as OE ; so bought a set [ 8 pads for a sport ] and went next door to my neighbour's workshop , took out one of his tractors , jacked up one side of the car and removed a front wheel beginning of problems . couldn't get the pads out ! fortunately my expert neighbour arrived to collect a muckspreader and between us we managed to get the pistons back enough to get the half worn pads out , but one piston would only go back half way ; no problem he said before he rushed off , just demount the caliper and work the piston in and out ....90% of the time you will get it freed off as he has done many times with a G clamp and the foot brake; if that doesn't work it is a refurb job easier said than done ...could I undo the bolts??? could I **** , extension bar or not [ the pneumatic gun wouldn't budge it ] unfortunately I am about to go to the UK , so couldn't risk breaking [ excuse pun ] something ; so back in with the old pads , pumped up the brakes [ one piston worked correctly the other not ] and after a while the stuck piston worked properly ie operated the pad ; on with the wheel , went for a run now I did what I should have done before spending £70 on new pads , temperature checked each disc after use ; lo and behold no vibration to begin with but the disc on the faulty piston side heated up after a number of stops and back came the vibration ....even though not nearly as bad as before so the moral of the story is ...before spending money on parts or a mechanic lash out £5 at amazon and get a temperature gun from china and check both sides for temperature to see if they balance ...it is highly unlikely both side have a problem to the same extent ; you may have found a cheap elimination for the problem thanks to whoever introduced me to the temperature gun ! anyone want a cheap set of 8 pad ferodo's for a sport while I am in southampton ? Last edited by oldnick; 29th October 2017 at 01:40 PM. |
#29
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Quote:
Anyway, tyres and arms made no difference if anything each one highlighted the brake issues further. Picked her up again yesterday with New front discs and pads and everything sorted now. (For the moment anyway) However mechanics needed to remove O/S headlight to mend washer fluid motor (for MOT) and somehow during this process discovered that the back of the light was damaged, it was the area that holds the bulbs. Not sure how this happened as they would of needed to adjust it during the initial MOT. Do they get hot and brittle? TPS would of releaved me of £1100 for a new unit if they werent discontinued! Eventually managed to source a second hand set and now all sorted. Just waiting to see what the old girl will throw at me next. I have the N/S light for sale now if anyone is interested, although part of me thinks I should put it in the loft for when the inevitable happens to the other unit ! |
#30
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Shake that thang!
I too have been tracking down a front end wobble, I cant say if it would relate to any of the the posts and problems in this thread. Also bear in mind that I have the aloominum hubs/uprights so dont know if this would apply to the steel hubs yada yada. Shudder started after I had to replace O/S hub as the top pinch bolt had been over torqued and had broken the lug off the hub, had to do this to both sides, grrr, so be careful when tightening these top pinch bolts in aloominum hubs (37Nm) The reason I think this might apply is the 70mph shudder, thats what I'm getting
So, onwards, all arms were replaced recently along with poly bushes allround at the front. Now there was never a wobble from the front until I changed the O/S hub. First thought, unknown m ileage on front hub so changed bearing, still wobbles. Started looking for any play in arms/balljoints as I can practically rule out the bushes with them being poly, but still eyeballed them to be sure, no movement at bush end but I did notice movement in the top rear balljoint. Ordered cheapy from ebay to test/replace. As I took the balljoint out from hub I could see and feel that it was still very tight in its socket, changed it anyway just to rule it out. All back together and theres play in the new/replaced top rear arm, exavctly the same movement, grrr, lol. Took both top ball joints out and swung hub outwards to have a look in the hole for the balljoint, all crudded up with oxidation. Got into it with a Dremel and cartridge roll (dont go heavy in here as you dont want to remove any metal thus making the hole bigger) then replacing the balljoints along with some locktite stud and bearing goop and torqued up (37Nm) and now no wobble from that side but can now feel a slight wobble from the N/S lol so thats getting the same treatment, soon, someday, lol I know this might not be your collective problem but you have all pretty much covered all the possibilities and symptoms I've had. HTH and YMMV lol
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1999 A8 Quattro Sport in Santorini Blue 2003 Yamaha R1 |
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