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D2 - Engine Bay Everything under the bonnet

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  #11  
Old 2nd July 2020, 03:55 AM
spannerrash spannerrash is offline
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As Mark has already said, the Valley cover gasket is a worthwhile fix if you can remove or get a mechanic to remove the manifold for you. Mine was leaking quite badly. There is a hole in the rear of the block, under the manifold, that lets the oil run down the back of the engine if it builds up too high. You could also do (or get done) the oil retention valves whilst in there. They're not really problematic but cheap enough to replace whilst in there. Just be careful removing them, they can be quite tight.

I would source a scan tool if I were you to see if the knock sensor is faulty. Pinking or pinging, I'm not sure which one it is, has a number of possible causes with the knock sensor probably being the easiest thing to check.

Just be careful. Pre-ignition can lead to further engine damage if severe and persistent enough. I do not wish to scare you but personally I would limit how much I drive the car until sorted.
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  #12  
Old 3rd July 2020, 12:18 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Just saw this on FB - this is apparently a type of rubber adhesive



Sugru might work too, although that might set a bit hard.
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  #13  
Old 4th July 2020, 09:14 PM
Regulus Regulus is offline
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I have been thinking about this a lot, the past few days.
While cleaning as much oil off as I can reach around the engine. The worst looks to be in the front of the engine, sprayed all over. Where I cannot reach unless I move the radiator.
Where does the oil originate? I read somewhere that this can be caused by an oil leak under the intake manifold in the rear end, towards the windshield.
Oil buildup on my generator also worries me, as the last one almost burned.
Or could it also be an oil leak from the oil cooler?

This along with the general "poor" condition of several hoses of different types. I feel a strong urge to have seals and hoses replaced. Along with the knock sensors.

Thus, I feel very tempted to try to do it all by myself. Even though I barely understand how difficult such a job would be. And would the engine have to come out, for me to be able to access everything?

Last but not least. How difficult is it to find the parts?
I can't think of anyone who are able/willing to do this besides MJ.
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  #14  
Old 4th July 2020, 10:19 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Oil on the front is not from the valley gasket as that can only get down the back. Things on the front are cam and crank oil seals which usually tend to be a bit damp but not leak profusely. The usual culprit is cam cover gaskets which can leak oil on everything.

I would take the engine out for a full re-seal, but tbh thats just because its easier to do all the other jobs at the same time - oil cooler plastic pipe and the cam chain tensioners on the 40V. Its entirely possible to re-seal the cams, crank, cam covers and valley gasket with the engine in place, but the front end will need to come off - bumper, headlights, front panel, radiator etc. The AC condenser can be swung out of the way.

Taking the inlet manifold off requires critical cleanliness - these engines collect a lot of schmutz between the manifold and the cylinder head so multiple stages of degreasing, vacuuming & air blasting are needed to clean the area as much as possible. Even then, some always remains once the manifold is lifted so I then go round with the vacuum again immediately after removing the manifold to pick up anything else before it can fall in the ports. Once everything is spotless I'll stick some duct tape over the ports while I do everything else.

If I remember correctly, the crank sprocket bolt for the 32V is NLA, but I think there is an alternative from another model. Seals should be easy enough to get from the aftermarket. All the timing gear will need to come off to re-seal the cams and crank so you'll need to acquire the locking tools for the 32V which can be a challenge. Probably sensible to do the belt and tensioners while you're in there.

Hoses will have to come from Tradition so its pot luck which ones they have unfortunately. Knock sensors are obviously easy enough to get aftermarket.
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  #15  
Old 5th July 2020, 09:06 PM
Regulus Regulus is offline
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Thanks again MJ. Good to know it is possible to do most of the work even if the engine is in place.

So far I have not seen a kit for the timing belt, only for the 40V; when I search the internet. But I do have part numbers for the engine:
077109119E Timing belt
077109244A Idler pulley
077109243A Tensioner pulley
(077109243A Serpentine belt)
078121004HX Water pump and gasket
077103487A Camshaft cover oil seal

Back in early 2018, I got an offer from Audi on the job. But it's to expensive considering everything else I want to do at this point.
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