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D3 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc.

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  #31  
Old 9th March 2015, 11:33 AM
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moltuae moltuae is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brasiliangringo View Post
10 and 8. If it aint broke dont fix it sort of thing.

The pinch bolt is 25a in the diagram.
Great. Thanks for the info/warning. I'll tell my mechanic to leave those unless they need changing or he's confident he can change them without any difficulties.
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  #32  
Old 9th March 2015, 06:26 PM
brasiliangringo brasiliangringo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian E View Post
A lot of garages have some kind of localised freezing kit as well, to make the bolt contract more relative to the hub. Mine on my D2 were done using that method and both sides were done in an hour (just upper 4)
You mean like the shock and freeze aerosols available from Loctite, and the makers of WD40 etc ?
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  #33  
Old 9th March 2015, 06:27 PM
brasiliangringo brasiliangringo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc4332 View Post
Left click on this attachment:-

Attachment 10304


Click the "OK" in the "Open With" box, (this will use Adobe to display the attachment).
You should, if I have done something correct for once, learn how to enlarge the picture!!!
Sorry to all those who already know this sort of thing, and all the complicated short cuts, but I try to remember that there is always someone out there who needs help.
Thanks for that. More complicated on this forum tbh. Not a dig, just an observation from SRS, sport, TT club etc.
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  #34  
Old 9th March 2015, 08:18 PM
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Adrian E Adrian E is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brasiliangringo View Post
You mean like the shock and freeze aerosols available from Loctite, and the makers of WD40 etc ?
I'm not sure which one they use - I know it worked on my ABS sensor when it wouldn't come out and one of the upper arm pinch bolts.
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  #35  
Old 9th March 2015, 08:22 PM
brasiliangringo brasiliangringo is offline
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Never used it so interesting to hear - i was always sceptical about it ! Certainly a good alternative when heat will melt / burn rubber parts nearby.
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  #36  
Old 20th April 2015, 02:04 PM
tipptop tipptop is offline
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Hi all, need to replace a front lower rear control arm, I read somewhere that the A8 with 20" alloys had different lower arms and wheel bearing housing, not sure if thats on a D2 or D3. I checked my PR codes and my car has the 20" alloys from the factory.

I got a part number off the lower front control arm, its 4E0407155C, however my rear lower (the one I need to replace) doesn't have a part number on it. Etka is showing the front lower as 4E0407151L, no mention of 4E0407155C which is what is on my car.

Can anyone confirm the part number for a rear lower control arm on a D3 if my front lower is 4E0407155C... It would be much appreciated.

Just an update, audi don't even recognise the front lower arm part number 4E0407155C. He mumbled something about 'base part numbers' and couldn't really explain why that part number is on my car. He said that the etka part numbers 4E0407151L for front lower and 4E0407694N for rear lower. I'm gonna drop the ball joint side off the car and measure it so I can check the new part before I take it.
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Last edited by tipptop; 20th April 2015 at 02:49 PM.
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  #37  
Old 21st April 2015, 05:32 AM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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Base part number will be the number for the metal casting but it machined afterwards and can have different size ball joint and bushes or different materials/stiffness for the bushes. Real number will be either on the sticker or on the packaging, it will not be cast in metal.
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