My Murple

[Ameiseuk]

Originally Posted by Ronin

where does that filter sits? ill be checking mine before giving it awa to be regassed

....just thinking the same thing!

[MikkiJayne]

It lives in the smaller of the two AC pipes just behind the union here:



De-gas the AC first obvs. 22 and 24mm spanners, soak it in WD40 for a day or two beforehand if you can, and protect the wing with a cloth as they can be a bit tough to undo. Pull the filter out with needle-nose pliers, lubricate the o-ring on the new one with PAG AC oil and push it back in the pipe.

The part number is 4B0820177 and its usually referred to as a choke as it has a measured orifice for the gas to move through (and is what can be heard hissing when the car is turned off). The filter is actually a secondary purpose. OE is about £30 but there are plenty of branded ones on ebay. The Mahle one here is £5.

You'll also need round seal 8E0260749 for the union.

When I'm doing an AC service I'll swap both this part and the drier together.

[Adrian E]

I was never aware that part existed either - would hazard a guess that a significant number have never had it changed.....

[Stromaluski]

The AC lines must route differently on a RHD car than a LHD car? I bought a new one for my car, but haven't changed it yet, because I realized I couldn't actually get wrenches on the line without disassembling more stuff than I had planned on.

[MikkiJayne]

Yes, they will be different as the wiper linkage is over on that side on LHD, whereas RHD we have the electronics box there.

[MikkiJayne]

Finished off under the bonnet, and then remembered I plan to swap this for a better one once lockdown is over and I can drive up to Prestige Still, its nicer to work under now.



Swapped out the struts for some nicer ones as the originals were pretty crusty



Fuel pipe rubber mounts all cleaned up and ready to go back on



and installed with the new clips and plastic bolt-things





Replaced the fuel filter



As suspected, this is the original filter from the factory. 320k miles on one fuel filter I will cut this open to see what it looks like inside.



The rear undertrays were pretty trashed so I fitted some good used ones with new hardware





I've now run out of things to do in the engine bay so its nearly time to put the engine in I'd say 'back in', but this engine and gearbox haven't been in this car before

[David's8]

Just as a reference for the fuel filter here's mine I cut up in 2015 at around 100k miles and it was dated 03.04.2002

[steamship]

Originally Posted by David's8

Just as a reference for the fuel filter here's mine I cut up in 2015 at around 100k miles and it was dated 03.04.2002

Be interesting to see what mine looks like, as I've been running on LPG since about 56k miles, although it does use a little petrol for the first few minutes on a cold start.

[MikkiJayne]

Last few bits in the engine bay before I put the drivetrain in - I'm aiming for that to happen on Saturday.

I printed a grommet for the AC lines. This one is a bit gnarly since my lines don't quite sit the same as Gareth's which is what this grommet was designed on, but it fills the hole for now. I'll refine this to be more like the factory part when I have more time.



The hvac inlet is all back together with new foam and new screws



Next is an issue which has been a bit of a challenge. This is one of the brackets for the airbox, and as you can see the weld has cracked (captain carnage replaced the rubber bushings which live on this bracket). Now it could of course be tig welded, but the nature of tig and aluminium means a lot of paint would end up getting burned off, and I really don't want to get in to respraying bits of the engine bay. So, what to do...



After much research and reading of technical data sheets, enter Permabond TA4207 2-part acrylic structural adhesive. This is methyl methacrylate based which gets incredibly strong bonds on metals, and this particular product has been specifically designed to bond unprepared aluminium as it can etch through the aluminium oxide layer to attach itself to the pure aluminium underneath. Thats good because obviously I can't exactly sandblast the inside of this crack!

The bond strength of this stuff on bare aluminium is such that in this 10x5mm crack it should achieve a shear strength of 130Kg! Thats plenty to hold the airbox in place Its also fuel, oil and temperature resistant.



Adhesive mixed and squidged in to and around the crack



Fitted a new starter junction box, bedded down on waxoyl as it's pretty crusty round here.



Tomorrow the engine goes back on the subframe and gets its wiring harness, plumbing etc.

[homer simpson]

@MJ, Where's the best place to get Permabond? eBay and Amazon seem to have lots of variants. Seems like a good product to have in the tool box.

How does it compare to JB Weld?