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D2 - Transmission Gearboxes, diffs, drive shafts. |
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#21
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Hmmm. Leaks through those joints/seals, in my 14-year experience of D2 S8's, are a "feature". The wonderful aroma of the fluid dripping onto the hot catalyst lives with me even now.
But I've never lost enough to make a difference to the gearbox itself. And I've had a fair few seals replaced over the years. Checking the level is a precise process that has to be done at the correct temperature.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! Last edited by HPsauce; 3rd February 2016 at 07:35 AM. |
#22
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I'm still at a loss as to why you don't get the gearbox flush and oil & filter change at Mackies - as more than one of us has advised. And ask them to inspect the rear output seal at the same time and advise on cost to replace if leaking.
It's much cheaper than a rebuilt gearbox and might solve the problems at a stroke.
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2002 Final Edition S8. Ebony black with Silver Grey leather and myrtle wood trim. Current mods: solar sun roof, 20mm rear spacers, 15 mm on front, red brembo callipers, 6k headlights, rear view camera, engine remap, alloy dash dial rings, alloy navi rings, tt/phaeton pedal upgrade, (and custom matching foot rest) dension ipod interface & parrot hands free kit (both fully hidden), av input, tv in motion switched thro' PF switch in blanking plug right of steering column, Audi 'quattro' sill covers, repositioned centre console switches, radio clock, .Planned mods: auto-dimming rear view mirror, dash cam (as steamship's), fit the ski hatch, refit philips drl's (or maybe not - nope, definitely not - horrible botch!). |
#23
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Quote:
There are 3 sealed compartments in gearbox, 1-gearbox itself, 2-centre diff and final drive and 3- front diff. Gearbox has ZF Lifeguard fluid in it, both diffs have gear oil in them. The leak you describe where driveshaft connects is from front diff and does not have anything to do with gearbox slipping. As far as the seal goes you can probably get generic seal that will fit if you have measurements of old seal. It really needs looking at/diagnostics by ZF specialist. If you keep driving with slipping clutches you will burn them out and then it will definitely need full refurb.
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure Last edited by ainarssems; 3rd February 2016 at 06:38 AM. |
#24
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^^^^ everything he said.
The final drive seal warps under the heat of the cats and lets out some final drive fluid. Only final drive fluid. This falls onto the cats and burns. Smells, but is harmless enough in terms of gearbox functionality. The gearboxes don't / shouldn't leak. For it to slip when warm (as apposed to cold) is odd - It sounds like a professional opinion on it before it gets much worse may save you an expensive fix later down the line.
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For parts enquiries and Forum User Administration please contact customer services directly, not me - enquiry@a8parts.co.uk, www.a8parts.co.uk, or call 01642 783537 The Daily Town Car - 2023 Tesla Model Y Performance. Black with Black. Giant ipad screen, huge sunroof, 4 wheel drive, Tow bar, lots of ooomph and made in China, so actually built properly unlike the Californian ones. The Family Wagon - 2018 Tesla Model X. Black, 7 Seats, Towbar, Homelink, Enhanced Auto pilot with Summon and self park, Heated front seats, CCS Charger upgrade, MCU2 Upgrade, Falconwing Doors, Self opening / closing doors, Netflix, Spotify, toys, Air suspension, alcantara roof + lots of other stuff...... The 17 year old Driver Wagon 2015 Skoda Citigo Monte Carlo. Alloys, Power steering, Aircon, Leccy windows, Sat Nav, bluetooth, central locking, cup holders, 59 whole bhp. Million times better than my first car. Well jealous..... The First 20 Audis: 2001 D2 4.2 QS Silver, 1997 D2 S8 Silver, 1999 D2 4.2 Silver, 2002 D2 S8 Dolphin Grey, 2003 C5 RS6 Blue, 1998 D2 S8 Black, 2000 D2 4.2 QS/S8 Ming Blue, 2003 D3 4.2 Ming Blue, 2005 B7 S4 Blue, 2006 D3 3.0 Tdi Black, 1999 D2 4.2 Silver, 2003 D3 4.2 LPG Crystal Blue, 2000 D2 S8 Silver, 2007 3.0 Tdi Q7 Black, 2009 B8 S4 Black, 1998 D2 S8 Agate Grey, 2006 D3 4.2 Tdi Blue, 2006 D3 S8, 2007 Q7 3.0 Tdi, 2006 C6 S6, The Second 20 Audis: 2011 A7 Sline, 2001 A2 1.4 Tdi Black, 2002 A2 1.4 Tdi Silver, 2006 A8 4.2 Tdi Blue, 2007 4.2 Tdi Q7, 2006 S4 Cab Silver, 2010 RS6 Saloon Black , 2007 TT Roadster, 2010 A8 D4 4.2 Silver, 2006 C6 A6 2.7 Tdi Quattro, 2000 D2 4.2 QS/S8 Ming Blue (again), 2008 Q7 4.2 Black, 2009 C6 RS6 Saloon Daytona Grey, 2001 Fully Loaded A2 Tdi, 2006 Avant S6 Black, 2007 VW Caravelle Exec Black (almost an Audi) 2009 TT Roadster Daytona, 2015 Q7 4.2 tdi lava grey, 2002 GmbH D2 demonstrator, 2006 D3 A8 LWB 4.2 Tdi Black Most Recent Audis: 2001 A2 1.4 Tdi Black, 2007 4.2 FSi Q7 ABT Blue, 2016 S5 Coupe Launch model, 2004 S4 B6 Cabriolet, 2016 Q7 Sline White, 2006 Q7 4.2 FSi Black, 2012 Q7 Sline+ 4.2Tdi White, 2008 Blue Audi S8 Everything Else 1989 Subaru Justy, 1986 Vauxhall Cartlton 2.0 GL, 1985 Vauxhall Carlton 2.2 CDi, 1987 Ford Sierra XR4x4, 1983 Vauxhall Senator, 1985 Vauxhall Senator 3.0i, 1997 Polo Saloon, 1997 Peugeot 306 1.9 TDi, Ford Sierra Sapphire 2000E, 1990 Subaru Justy, 2000 Subaru Impreza, 2000 Subaru Impreza RB5, 1993 Range Rover LSE, 2005 VW Bora, 2003 Skoda Superb, 2003 VW Passat V6 4 Motion, 1996 Peugeot 106, 2000 Range Rover 4.0, 2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance |
#25
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The output shaft seals are custom sizes so you can't buy them off the shelf. The driver's side is only £15-20 from Audi though IIRC. Part number 01V409399.
That's not the cause of the slipping though. Barring low oil level, its likely the bearing between the first and second clutch packs has failed (a £6 part which can kill a whole gearbox!), then the o-ring which provides pressure to the clutch hydraulics also fails and you lose clamping force on the friction material which starts to slip. If you catch it soon enough you can replace the bearing and o-ring for about £100 diy, but if you've been driving with it slipping (and the oil smells burnt as per the Mackies response) then it's pretty much toast and will need a full rebuild. Flushing won't help at that stage. Check the fluid level in the gearbox sump according to the proper procedure, and get a sample of the fluid. If it is clear and doesn't smell then you still have a relatively cheap option. If its a dark colour and smells burnt then its time for a rebuild. Non-FE S8s have been going for for ~£1000 on ebay so if the car is in good condition apart from the gearbox it is still worth spending the money on a rebuild. |
#26
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I would just like to say how I appreciate the very detailed and informative replies guys.
I thought that it would be worth topping up the gearbox to ensure the oil level is where it should be, and before I did that I assumed the right thing to do would be replace that seal I noticed leaking. It certainly sounds from the replies that the box is manufactured in such a way that the leak is nothing to do with my particular problem, and it seems more likely that I'm losing oil pressure rather than just being low in oil from the hot and cold oil description. I simply thought it would be a good idea to try the oil and seal as a cheap effort to see if it helped before fitting the gearbox I already have, and as I live in northern Ireland, the cost of travelling to Mackies to get a filter and gearbox flush wouldn't be viable as I know in my own heart of hearts that there is a high percentage chance I'm going to have to fit the new gearbox anyway, so the costs all add up. I have a reconditioned box here for the car, which was supplied by the forums sponsers, along with a new torque convertor reconditioned by Mackies, new filter and oil. So basically everything to do the job, but just thought it might have be worth the effort to try this first. Seems like the general consensus is that I should just fit my new gearbox as the perception is an internal problem rather than an oil level. I do understand there is a procedure for filling and running the gearbox to fill it properly at a specific temp. The last few replies have convinced me that I shouldn't waste my time on my so called cheap fix !!!!! Thank you one all all !!!! Last edited by Ricky22buk; 3rd February 2016 at 02:00 PM. |
#27
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Right bit the bullet...... old box out and replacement now fitted. I have a few odds and ends to clear up before I look into these next two steps.
1. When I removed the engine cover below, I realized I have a very bad oil leak on the left hand side of the engine, and although its hard to tell its origin without washing and driving again, online reading seems to suggest the transmission fluid is pumped through the radiator as a means of cooling it and that seems to be a problem area for leakage. If it is in my case can I ask where would be the best place to buy a new radiator, basically somewhere that would have it sitting on the shelf so I could get one dispatched asap ? I'm assuming this could well have been my problem all along with the leakage of transmission fluid. If this isn't where my leak is coming from, should I even attempt to remove the old oil from that pipework and cooler loop considering I don't have access to the specialist machine you guys keep taking about ? I hate the though of mixing it with the new oil I'm putting in the box ! 2. Also, I'm a little confused with the oil filling procedure. When your car is on the ground and via the gear lever you select first, you cannot select second until you are doing above a certain speed, which I assume comes from a wheel speed sensor. So if the car is on a lift and the procedure tells you to go through selected gears for 30 seconds each with your foot on the brake, I'm assuming you shouldn't be able to select all the gears without the wheels turning ? If this is a stupid question please tell me and I will apologize ! Thanks in advance guys ! Last edited by Ricky22buk; 15th March 2016 at 11:16 AM. |
#28
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I use Exeter Radiators since they're near me. They have a bunch of different suppliers and usually can ship direct from source so quite quick. Worth a call http://www.carradiator.co.uk/
Not sure how much one is for an S8 yet as I haven't asked them. Euro Car Parts are £500+ and not in stock. My copy of Etka says £430 for a genuine one, which may be a bit out of date. You'll not get all the old oil out of the box unless you strip it down. The TC will still be full too. Best you can do with a drain and re-fill is about half of it I think, without the special machine. Its easy enough to drain the lines to the rad, but not really worth it unless you're swapping the radiator anyway. Not sure about the gear procedure - I always assumed the wheels were spinning to do it. |
#29
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Current price for a rad (OEM) is about £500 before discount
With gear selector, you do not need the wheels to rotate. By moving the selector through the available modes (which if your car pre-dates S mode includes 2-3-4) you're allowing oil to flow through parts of the box statically before it's driven. It would be crazy to attempt to have the wheels driven at road speed on a lift The main challenge when filling the box is keeping the oil temperature low enough - main thing is to get as much in there as possible before starting and have an assistant to monitor oil temp with VCDS and move the gear selector as required while you're under the car pumping more fluid in there. Worth making sure you can actually get the oil in without just spilling it over yourself!
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===SOLD===2002 Audi S8 D2 Final Edition (yes, really) in Avus Silver with purple extended leather===SOLD=== 2011 S5 Sportback in Phantom Black with black Super Sports leather, 9x20s, tech pack high, adaptive xenon plus, intelligent key, memory seats pack, sunroof, B&O, Audi Drive Select & quattro Sports Diff, DAB, parking system plus 2015 VW Golf GTI Performance Pack in Carbon Grey with black Vienna leather, tech pack (Discovery Pro nav & Dynaudio), DCC, factory towbar and retrofit RVC |
#30
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Genuine rad a bit cheaper here:
http://www.genuineautoparts.com/uk/a...omponents-scat Not used this company myself but others have, appears legit.
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Shirish: 2001 S8 |
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