Central Locking Pump Replacement

[ulfilias]

Hi Guys,

Just replaced the Central Locking Pump on my 2000 D2 S8.

The remote central locking had stopped. There was no wheering from the boot area. The key in the drivers door worked that lock but no other. The central locking button did nothing. The remote still activated the alarm on/off andd oddly the boot release still worked.

It is in the boot panier headlining round the back of the radio ariel. It is reasonably easy and quick to do if you are ok at stripping out the carpet board and trim bits to get to it. About 2-3 bolts. Tricky to access but reasonably ok. 2 vac pipes which you squeeze the plastic nipple to release the grip and pull off. Two block connectors that are nice and easy push buttons and one that is a bit of a pig that needs shimming both sides and pulling.

Ebay had the exact same model number, though it was listed as an A3. Cost about £55 which is far better than the Audi stealers £300+

Plugging the new (secondhand) one in was easy enough and the central locking worked again. But not the remote. Drivers key would unlock all doors and then opening and the alarm goes off. Key in ignition and twist to shut it up.

I searched for central locking coding and found this - http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthrea...locking+coding I tried a couple of the codes and 15211 seems the closest to what I want as 15215 does just the drivers door and I often have passengers. However I do like the autolocking at speed and unlocking when the key is removed, so thats a bonus. I may look at adding horn as an audible indicator at some point!

Doing a search for coding of keys and bits, I was woried about having to log in a pin/psk codes and all sorts, but I searched the vagcom instruction database and found this

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...entral_Locking

Which worked fine with my old key. I haven't changed my immobiliser, so don't need the full key recording stuff. Irritatingly the spare key i bought on ebay didn't sync so i think that must be a slightly different transmitter as it is the slightly newer keyshape. Grrr

I was *HOPING* that since the central locking pump is linked to the car opening and locking that my Lights issue would resolve itself (http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=1066) - but No, the interior lights do not work still.....Leaving a light switch, switched on and starting the car after you have left it for 3+ hrs still works....so I know it is not a physical light fault, but some form of opening / logic fault, but gosh knows where to look now

Lee

[notorious]

Sorry can't help with coding, but in 90% cases it is the motor that breaks down. It is possible to order just the motor from eBay and change it. Some people learned how to fix these motors so that they don't break any more and they sell these motors for our pumps.

[ainarssems]

It's the pump itself that wears out very often, you can buy repair kits with graphite parts instead of plastic that are supposed to wear out less.
But in those cases there is whirring from boot but no sucking.

In other cases motor fails because of brush and commutator wear or corrosion

Third cause is PCB fault mostly because of water ingress.

[notorious]

Exemple of motor repair kit:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1905875181...=p5197.c0.m619

[ulfilias]

I popped the white bottom off and there was some carbonisation of some of the items on the PCB.

Maybe replacing the motor / refurbing the pump may work. However looking at that Ebay link, It would be more than the £55 I paid for a second hand one!

Lee

[ainarssems]

That's the whole motor/pump assembly.

You can get pump repair kits with just the pump impeller and brushes(or whatever they are called, not the motor brushes but for the pump itself). I Can't seem to find any on e-bay atm but friend of mine bought a kit for his A4 a while ago and it was under £20.

[ulfilias]

ainarssems - Worth noting for other people I guess, but at least this details you can replace the whole lot without neading to use the Dealers for key recoding which IIRC is damn tricky!