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#1
7th February 2016, 04:39 PM
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Heater valve block refurb
So while the engine is out of my S8 I'm going through everything to make sure it's spot on. While flushing the heater cores I noticed the motor on the heater valve block had a lot of external rust, almost like it had been underwater for a while. I wonder how that might happen
 (yes, the drains were full of compost)With it on the bench I took the motor off and surprise surprise it's very stiff to turn so dismantled it on the grounds I had nothing to lose. It had clearly been full of water      I reckon I can recover that... 
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#2
7th February 2016, 08:00 PM
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Respect if you do!
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Conan (the Librarian) Watch it if you dare Currently, 2000 S8, Merlin Purple, Leather Pack 1, Winter Pack 1, SPAX adjustable suspension, AP Racing 6 pot front caliper, 385mm fully floating disks, EBC Yellow Stuff Pads, Black Diamond grooved rear disks and predetor pads, D2 Doctors Brake Block. 1997 4.2 A8SQ - the Projekt. 12 years and ongoing! 1997 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. Restoration sat waiting; saved from the Scrapyard 2003 C5 Allroad 4.2Q - Cobolt Blue. Towing car. Laid up awaiting manual conversion. 2005 C5 Allroad 2.5TDi FE - Grey - Workhorse. 2015 Q3QS SLine - Daytona Grey. Lots of extras! Long Haired Admirals cutter. Previously 2003 C5 A6 1.9TDI FWD - Loaner from D2 Doctor Lifex 1997 S8 - Ming Blue. Loaned out and written off. I loved that car. My first engine swap after cambelt failure. 1996 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. 178k on a cambelt! Trader's 8. Delivered to A8Parts at Lifex. 2003 2.8 A8SQ - powder blueish. Fill in for a while. Sold on. 1998 1.8T A4 Avant FWD. Ming Blue (there's a theme here), PEX for the 97 S8. And a list of non VAG going back 40 years before I saw the light.
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#3
8th February 2016, 06:33 PM
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So its been kind of a submersable pump then? Was it actually working!!??
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2002 D2 S8 – Ming Blue, Valcona leather, Vavona wood insert, solar sunroof (to be fitted), Heated rear seats, extended leather pack, 18” Avus, ski hatch, Bose, auto dim rear view mirror, rear blind.
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#4
9th February 2016, 07:56 PM
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No, not even a little bit! New bearings one the way...
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#5
10th February 2016, 07:26 PM
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Hmm, I was going to say respect to the motor if it was doing anything at all in that condition - but you've answered that one.
Suspect mine might look similar though the heater does work..... Nick
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#6
14th February 2016, 06:32 PM
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Fixed it!
After cleaning it all up I discovered one of the windings on the armature had burned out, presumably from it being powered up while stalled:  So carefully soldered that back together  A continuity check across the commutator terminals showed the windings were all complete, so onward to the terminals in the end cap. These are brass, and had corroded away to blue powder. I ended up having to dig some plastic away with the dremel and cleaned up the tracks with a diamond burr so I could solder to them.  Not a lot to work with, but I got it done. The brush plate broke in half when I dismantled the motor, but thats no biggie. I soldered wires to the two inductors and hot-glued everything in place.  Soldered the two wires to the terminals in the end cap, and then assembled it with the aid of some cyanoacrylate superglue.  You can see the bearing already in place here. Because of the way I've had to rebuild it with the wires I had to put the bearing in first and then press the motor shaft in to it in place. The factory would have assembled the brush plate and bearing first, then put the end cap on and soldered the terminals together. I pressed the end bearing on first  Then pressed the armature in to the bearing in the end cap and we have this:   Cleaned up the housing:  The completed assembly just pushes in to the housing by hand and screws in place. The motor drives the pump via magnetic coupling to save on having to seal the motor shaft against pressurised coolant. The magnet is attached to this steel flange then bolted to the motor shaft:  This had obviously been underwater too so cleaned it up with a bit of sandpaper then bolted it to the shaft. The magnetic ring is glued to the flange using the same structural acrylic that I used on the body studs, and the motor is complete:  Hooked up power to it and it works again 
Last edited by MikkiJayne; 14th February 2016 at 06:35 PM.
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#7
14th February 2016, 06:40 PM
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And a couple of videos of it running
 Motor running The motor is sealed from the valve body using the aluminium plate then drives the impellers (one for each side) via a magnetic ring. The impeller next to the motor drives the one on the other side of the valve body using a slotted bush. Motor running with impeller (yes the meter is hooked up backwards!) Tunes courtesy of Sanctuary Radio 
Last edited by MikkiJayne; 14th February 2016 at 06:43 PM.
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#8
14th February 2016, 06:42 PM
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Neat work.
__________________
2002 D2 S8 – Ming Blue, Valcona leather, Vavona wood insert, solar sunroof (to be fitted), Heated rear seats, extended leather pack, 18” Avus, ski hatch, Bose, auto dim rear view mirror, rear blind.
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Linear Mode
