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  #31  
Old 4th October 2020, 11:48 AM
GarethS8 GarethS8 is offline
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  #32  
Old 4th October 2020, 08:08 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Gearbox day. Pic heavy, but Ian did say the forum has plenty of storage

Lifted off the separating machine



and on to the engine stand



A previous owner has flushed something through the scuttle drains which has formed a type of asphalt all over the gearbox. I've never seen anything like it before - my usual degreaser won't touch it, and it can't be mechanically removed with a brush. It has to be chiseled / scraped off and then attacked with some special industrial-strength degreaser which tends to dissolve any petrochemical product other than polythene so needs to be used with great care! Even then, it was quite a task to remove it. Very odd stuff.









After cleaning and draining the fluids, I flipped it over to remove the sump



No sludge in the pan, magnets not too furry



Nice and clean inside







After letting it drain over lunch, I filled the oil pickup with fresh oil



then fitted the new filter, also primed with oil



I nearly walked in to this monster which had got bored of hiding in the wheel well



Pan and magnets cleaned then the sump re-fitted



I replaced the bearing and oil seal on the left hand flange as that had a fairly catastrophic leak



Whoever last did the rear output seal forgot to fit the gasket on the flange



Hold it still with two bolts and a breaker bar to crack loose the bolt in the centre



Turns out this one has had the revised flange and oil seal fitted. The seal has an extra lip on it, and the flange has a cutout for the lip. I think the intention was to stop grit getting in and damaging the oil seal, but these revised versions fail just as frequently as the original, so obviously grit isn't the problem.





I keep both types of seal in stock as its pot luck which version any given car actually has. I took the opportunity today to make a drift to push the revised seal in to place, as it needs something to fit over the seal rather than just being flat. Previously I've used a socket, but this is better



It fits over the seal like this so it can be knocked in flush with the mounting flange



Same holding technique in reverse to torque up the bolt.



New gasket on the output flange



On to the F125. This is dated 2010 so was clearly replaced by the PO around the same time as it had a cam belt. This switch having been replaced before makes me question my diagnosis of the no-start problem, and now I wonder if it is a wiring issue. There's definitely no neutral signal reaching the ECU box from the F125, but it may be nibbling rather than an F125 fault. As I am replacing the wiring harness, that may well solve it so I am refitting the F125 without opening it up for now. I will test it when the wiring harness goes back on and see what it does. For now, I need it fitted in order to put the gearbox mount back on so it can go back on the separating machine.

Also in this pic a replacement shifter end, since the previous one was well nibbled.



Back on the separating machine. I will fill up the fluids and reattach engine and gearbox tomorrow.

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  #33  
Old 5th October 2020, 12:33 AM
GarethS8 GarethS8 is offline
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The detail and ingenuity is amazing, for me this why there is nobody better than MJ with d2's and this is why now no body else will touch my s8
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  #34  
Old 9th October 2020, 10:20 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Very little progress this week I'm afraid due to a 4-day migraine and now a stiff neck

Managed a couple of hours tonight so reattached the engine and gearbox and filled them with oil.

8 litres of oil came out, 8.5 went back in through the oil cooler return line. This should give plenty for startup and to re-fill the cooler and torque converter, then it'll drain to level once up to temperature.



A German friend told me about Mannol AG52 - approved to Audi spec for the 5HP, and £3 a litre instead of £13! I put this in Big Red and she's shifting better than ever so I'm now buying it in 20 litre drums.

Note: order it from German ebay. The two ebay sellers in the UK are the same bunch of lying shysters, and thats really the only source here. Its cheaper from Germany and arrives faster too.



Lash-up for spinning the engine on the starter and building oil pressure



Vid of the engine spinning over and triggering the oil pressure switch:

oilpressure.mp4


Put the spark plugs in, coil packs on, and coolant hoses back on



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  #35  
Old 10th October 2020, 02:37 PM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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Quote:
A German friend told me about Mannol AG52 - approved to Audi spec for the 5HP, and £3 a litre instead of £13! I put this in Big Red and she's shifting better than ever so I'm now buying it in 20 litre drums.
I used their AG55 in D3 and also using their AF12+ antifreeze
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  #36  
Old 11th October 2020, 09:50 AM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ainarssems View Post
I used their AG55 in D3 and also using their AF12+ antifreeze
Useful to know Where are you buying it?

Engine and gearbox back on the subframe and ready to go back in:

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  #37  
Old 13th October 2020, 10:22 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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There has been a lack of progress updates due to a lack of progress The front uprights are the most seized I've ever seen. I'm having to drill out all the bolts, even the tie rod end bolts



I decided to do something else for a bit - sort out the downpipe support brackets. The car has bottomed out on something and broken a few things, and mangled these brackets. In addition to that, the bolts are seized, as they usually are. I started by cutting the head off the bolt to save the spring and bracket.



The exposed thread is too crusty to come out



New toy Oh mapp gas, where have you been all my life?



Heat the bent bit until cherry red then straighten it out. My calor gas torch would never manage this!



These brackets have a poorly-captured square nut, which just bends its housing and spins. I wedged the sides with a bit of 6mm rod.



With some heat and the mole grips I managed to get the bolt moving and wound it in.



then cut the unthreaded portion off so it will continue going right through the captive nut



Double nuts locked on to the rusty thread



and wind it out



I cleaned the thread with a tap and its good to go again with a new bolt



The other side is even more of a mess!



It took a bit more of a fight to get this one apart but I won in the end



Downpipes back on the engine, and lower arms loosely on the subframe

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  #38  
Old 14th October 2020, 01:31 PM
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David's8 David's8 is offline
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Oh wow, Hasnt it realised that its futile to continue resisting!!
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  #39  
Old 15th October 2020, 08:27 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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It is slowly being assimilated

This is all that's left of the tie rod bolt



Obviously the pinch bolt wouldn't just come out, so the first trick to try before drilling it is to jack it out using the threads at the nut end. I've already snapped the head off at this point, and I have a stack of greased washers under the nut. When all goes to plan, tightening the nut pulls the bolt out. Note the half washer jammed in the split where the balljoint pin goes - there is one at the other end too. These are essential to support the clamping section of the upright. Without this support, tightening the nut will simply crack the aluminium. Yes, I learned that the hard way when I forgot the washer once



You can just see the end of the bolt as it disappears in to the hole



This is after the first round - its pulled about 2cm out so far.



Tightening round 2 - now I'm running out of room. This technique can pull the whole bolt out cleanly in the A4 and A6, but for some reason the 8 has slightly different geometry on the steering arm so there's no straight shot to this end of the bolt.



I cut 1cm of thread off the end so there is enough for one final round of tightening the nut. At this point I cut through the bolt leaving a couple of cm proud of the upright and then wiggle it with mole grips, with some encouragement from a drift in the other end of the bolt hole. Its important not to punch it out as there is still a chance of breaking the upright.



The remains of the bolt



One upright ready to go back on. This was ~4 hours of work...



Cleaned up the hub so the wheel runs true



and cleaned up the holes for the control arms

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Last edited by MikkiJayne; 15th October 2020 at 08:37 PM.
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  #40  
Old 15th October 2020, 10:12 PM
tintin tintin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
It is slowly being assimilated

[[/img]
Hmm...never quite saw you as the Borg Queen, but maybe I'm not thinking hard enough...
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(3) 1997 Fiat Coupe 20v Turbo: Scots (! ) Green. Fragile, but beautiful.
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