Bi-Xenon with AFS retrofit Audi A8 D3 (4E)

[yavor20v]

I'm still waiting ..... anyone???

ti would be very useful to have the full write up for this retrofit

[M-A8]

Chill chill man, I'm here.
Well, it's me who failed to finish this write up so I can't blame anyone else.

I will look for the photos, because as far as I remember I had to run additional wires, Kufatec harness wasn't enough.

In the meantime could you confirm if you have the correct headlight range module.
Also, are your headlights AFS I (static Bi-Xenon, only goes up and down) or AFS II (dynamic Bi-xenon, goes up and down and swings left and right with the movement of the steering wheel).
Have you done any wiring at all, you mentioned some stuff, but can you just confirm what wires you wired where.

''I'll be back''

[M-A8]

...also
Have you actually fitted Headlights Range Module and if so have you done any wiring from it to headlights??

The part 2 of this retrofit requires a bit more work and stripping the car again so I apologise everyone who followed the retrofit and did not get the results they wanted.
Please bare in mind that this hasn't been done before therefore I had to make mistakes to make it right and I did, 99%, and there was no guide to follow and at that point so I was starting from scratch.

Good news is that I've found all the photos and part 2 of this rewire should be up in next 2 hours or so - bare with me as I am immobilised due to back failure and my strong meds are not here yet so I'm in agony sitting by the desk trying to put this right

[M-A8]

Please make notes and double check everything if you doing this job on RHD car as locations could be on the opposite sides.
This retrofit is done on the LHD car (UK).

OK, so
You need to get back to the headlight connectors again as there are extra 4 wires to be run per headlight:
- 1x earth
- 1x live feed
- 2x CAN BUS wires

Earth and live feed are just straight runs, but CAN wires MUST BE TWISTED together before taping them together with live and earth using cloth tape.

Quick guide to CAN wiring.
Each complete twist cannot be longer than 20mm (A) picture below.
Make sure you have someone to help you if you will be using drill like I did so you don't end up having half of the run having more compact twists then the other end. Be very careful not to over do it/damage the cable, TAKE YOUR TIME.

For can wires you must use either 0.35mm2 or 0.5mm2 cable, I've used 0.5mm2
All can wires on the D3 have two colours no matter what component they go to, one is CAN Low and one CAN high, if I remember correctly they are Orange/Black and Orange/Brown.
I've used Bright Green an Dark Green wires.

For Earth I've used 1.0mm2 Brown wire (both headlights).
For Live I've used 1.0mm2 Grey and Black wires (Grey for left and Black for Right headlight for easier identification as they need separate fuse on the fuse box). They got to fuse slot 43 and 44 (see chart on the inside of the fuse box cover), but thats on LHD car, not sure if RHD cars have them fuses on the same side.

You will have to join CAN wires from left and right headlight somewhere, I did it behind the glove box, but you also must ensure that each untwisted section/joint is no longer than 50mm (B) picture below.
There is only one pair of CAN wires going to the Headlight Range Module, left and right do the same thing so module only needs one CAN Low and one CAN High signal even if a pair from each headlight is required.



>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

So pin 1 and 2 are your CAN wires 0.5mm2
Pin 4 is Live 1.0mm2
Pin 14 is Earth 1.0mm2



Making up the wires.
Make sure you have selection of terminal connectors as per original post (grey case with all the connectors). A lot of them look the same but they are for different thickness wires - you will same type but different version for CAN and live/earth wires which are 1.0mm2, CAN 0.5mm2 as mentioned earlier.
Make sure you have correct crimping tool for JPT terminals and waterproof seals for wires for the headlight connectors.

Tool



Seal first then strip approx. 10mm of insulation and crimp very well terminal connector.







Twist can wires and tape them together.
Note that CAN wires go to range module behind the cluster where live goes to fuse box to the side of the dashboard and brown earth to the inside of the pillar on the passenger side near the door hinges (both earth and both live).
So its a good idea to keep them all taped together inside the engine bay, where its not best to tape the entire length of all wires. You can see I ended up with tapped bunch of CAN wires inside the car and a separate bunch of live and earth.

Length of wires.
Allow 6m each CAN pair per headlight
Allow 4m each Earth and Live pair per headlight.

Note, this are the lengths for LHD cars !!!
In case of RHD cars:
- entry point from engine bay will be on the opposite side and if so CAN harness can be reduced to 4m and if fuses for Live wires and opposite entry point are on the right side not left as on LHD cars then Live and Earth hrness can be reduced to 4m from 6m.
You get me, don't you??









Use the same entry point on passenger side under the windscreen behind the alarm siren making sure when all cables are thru a water tight seal done. I've used all weather black flexible sealant for outdoor use (not silicon) on the silicon gun and nozzle, enough so you see it coming thru on the inside of the car, pic 2.
Cable tie new wires to existing harness.





>>>>>>>>>>>>>

That is all done inside the engine bay.

Remove the glove box, trim under the steering wheel and remove cluster.
Fit Headlight Range module if you haven't yet.
If you have one and upgrading from AFS I to AFS II you will still need access to it/need one.

Note, you dont need the mounting bracket for the Range Module even if you havent got one as standard as there will be one already with the buzzer fitted.







>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Live and earth first.
On the A pillar there are earth points, thats where both (left and right headlight) brown wires go.



The fuses (live supply) are located on the passenger side fuse box. See chart on the back of the fuse box cover, fuse 43 and 44 if I remember correctly.

You will need to locate a Live supply bar on the back of the fuse box with CONSTANT LIVE not ignition live.
If you use ignition live dont worry too much (of course its not like it should be by OEM standards), but you will get Adaptive Headlights Malfunction warning light if you turn the ignition and headlights, but DON'T start the engine, as there won't be live supply to AFS modules until engine is running.
But as soon you start the engine the fault will disappear and it won't be even recorded in the module. So in case of using ignition live if you start the engine before switching the headlight on there wont be such a issue.

Don't get to confused about it, just use constant live feed instead of ignition live feed.

I've used heat shrink wrap and cable ties before soldering on both Live feeds onto the Live plate on the back of the fuse box and then wrap it up nicely with the cloth tape.





Then crimp on double female terminal connector onto each live red wire.
I've used here 2.5mm2 red wire if I remember correctly, both about 20cm long.
Then placed each wire in slot for fuse 43 and 44 on one side, thats the supply.
Black and Grey wire from each headlight will go to the other side (other leg of each fuse) for each fuse slot.





Bottom right corner is where the both fuses are prepared.



Bottom right corner again, 10A red fuse for each headlight.



>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Now to the wiring of Xenon Range Module

Your choice on the location, I did it behind the glove box while its removed, cut short one pair of CAN wires and join it with the other pair so you will end up only with one pair full length going to the module behind the cluster.
Solder, scotch lock or any other solid connection will do.
Don't strip the insulation on the main run, twist only and wrap with tape, that won't be good enough.



Wrap it all up in cloth tape after.



Harness sits on top of the air duct with the joint to the right of the red connector on the MMI head unit.




Headlight Range module connector
You will have here:
- two CAN wires from the headlights go to pin 18 and 19 (top middle row)
- two CAN wires coming out of the connector (bottom row to the left pin 2-CAN High and pin 3-CAN Low, Low and High rows are marked on the CAN separating connector by letters H and L) go to the CAN separating connector which is located above the driver side fuse box (LHD car), purple/black big connector.
- two wires going to the fuse box on the driver side (power supply for the Headlight Range module):
*Grey 1.0mm2 wire is the live
*Brown 1.0mm2 wire is the earth (any earth point on the right hand side on the chassis)

CAN wiring
pin 2 goes to pin 6 on the High side (6H) on the CAN connector
pin 3 goes to pin 6 on the Low side (6L) on the CAN connector







These are the terminal connectors you have to use for the range module and CAN separating connector





This is the CAN separating connector







That is CAN wiring done

Now the supply for the Range module.
Same principle and size of wires like for the right hand side fuses, but this module requires a small size fuse so single female terminal connectors must be used, not double width.





Fuse number 4 from what I remember, see chart on the back of the fuse box cover.



Top right red fuse with no white writing on the face.




Put it all back together.

Plug VCDS in.
Go to CAN Gateway > Installation List > Tick Headlight Range



Then Code the headlights as per first post if you haven't yet.
[09] Central Electronics I
[Coding]
[Software coding]

ENTER 0143121 for Bi-Xenons with AFS and separate halogen P21W DRL with Automatic Driving Light with rain/light sensor, ENABLED DRLs and set to default
Change your coding accordingly to set up you have.

If you are going to swap your P21W halogen together with 501s sidelight for LEDs as per this thread
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=7192
...then change 3rd digit to [3] IF you have AFS, but follow the above guide (wiring) so the DRL and sidelight are on the same loop

And on the end go to Headlight Range module to adapt the light and adjust if necessary.
1st coding 0000018, but perform security access first 02000 = General Coding "Enabling"
2nd security access for adaptation 02000 > 03000 > 04000 > 05000 = General Adaptation "Enabling" (Enter one after another)
3rd basic settings for learning headlights position and adjusting with the white hex screws on the headlights if necessary
Headlight Adjustment
[Select]
[55 - Xenon Range]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 001
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
The meas. block field now shows "Wait" and should switch to "Adjust Headlights" then (this may take up to 10 seconds).
Adjust the headlights using their manual adjusting screws as referenced against a suitable aiming target.
[ON/OFF/Next]
The adjustment should now be learned.
[Done, Go Back]
Don't forget to check/clear fault codes afterwards.
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

All done

[M-A8]

PLEASE NOTE

If you are upgrading from AFS I Bi-Xenon (static main beam) [not halogen headlight] to AFS II Bi-Xenons with halogen or LED DRL (dynamic main beam), then you will only hate to complete the part of the wiring from this page 2, NOT page 1 part of the wiring as this will be already on the car.

At least that's what I think as the Kufatec harness only enables Bi-Xenon function and DRL light.

[M-A8]

For some reason half of the pictures were missing so I had to re-upload them and place in correct places so it all makes sense again.
All done now

[yavor20v]

Thank you very very much mate! Great work!
I'm on it next week!
It's AFS2 that I will go after, my new headlights are dynamic bi xenon

[yavor20v]

this is what a have, it's going to be one of these

[M-A8]

Your welcome
It's nice to know that at least one person will benefit from it.
To be honest it was more work to research and document it all than actually do it. With a guide this is now an easy retrofit.

This is the range module I used and you've got one so you are pretty much set.

Address 55: Headlight Range Labels: 4F0-910-357.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4L0 910 357 HW: 4L0 907 357

[yavor20v]

Such a nice write up man! Apprieciate that!
Now I'm stuck with the back up camera retrofit (95% done) but next week it's time to move forward with the headlights again