|
D3 - Interior Electrics Airbags, Sensors, climate modules, instrument clusters, switches etc |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
For the 110Ah, I used 000915105AK on mine.
(Now have a 95Ah AGM, I used 000915105CE ) Last edited by snapdragon; 11th January 2014 at 04:45 PM. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#23
|
||||
|
||||
My Indie was trying to remap the engine and failed disastrously 'cos the battery voltage dropped to 10.7 when the radiator fans kicked in. ECU file corrupted. Oh Bummer!!
Fitted new battery, ECU reloaded to factory default?? Then remapped and the car now has a low flying licence. Used this thread to register the new battery, just changed the last digit as suggested earlier, success. Thanks Guys, where would I be without you. Attempted to clear all the faults with VCDS, shifted a few but still left some old ones from before I had the motor. I'm gonna have to learn more about VCDS
__________________
Ray at Wigan Pier 2014 A8L D4 4.0TFSI Gold (Sticker says "Beige") Can't leave you in a black smoke cloud anymore.. In progress, Nothing left to do. Gone 2004 A8 D3 3.0 TDI. Ebony Pearl Black (with little bits of other colours and glitter) |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
You should never do any remapping without a bench supplied constant 12v power supply. That was bad luck though lol. Bet he wished he had stayed in bed that day !! Expensive mistake !!
|
#25
|
||||
|
||||
When my Guy realised that the voltage was low, apparently 11.8 is too low, he connected a large starter charger that landed up delivering a constant 45 amps and the voltage lifted to 11.4. He then put on jump leads from a new transit as well as the charger and we upped to 11.6 volts. Very strange.
Waited for a new battery, installed it and we were way over 12, connected the big charger and then sorted the mess. Like you said, perhaps he should have stayed in bed. I had noticed that she was not turning over as usual on cold mornings. The new battery has resolved this.
__________________
Ray at Wigan Pier 2014 A8L D4 4.0TFSI Gold (Sticker says "Beige") Can't leave you in a black smoke cloud anymore.. In progress, Nothing left to do. Gone 2004 A8 D3 3.0 TDI. Ebony Pearl Black (with little bits of other colours and glitter) |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Hi, who was the indie who did your remap?
|
#27
|
|||
|
|||
Battery on its own car off should be around or slightly over 12,5 ideally, although voltage alone doesn't tell the whole story. I have a conductance tester (Solar BA7) which is as good at testing batteries for a small outlay (no method is singularly perfect) as it gets presently.
|
#28
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Last edited by brasiliangringo; 19th February 2015 at 09:31 PM. |
#29
|
||||
|
||||
If we did connect the external supply in series with the vehicle battery then we would be applying 24 volts to the electronics.
My battery problem was due to a dead cell. A drop test proved this after we had removed it from the car.
__________________
Ray at Wigan Pier 2014 A8L D4 4.0TFSI Gold (Sticker says "Beige") Can't leave you in a black smoke cloud anymore.. In progress, Nothing left to do. Gone 2004 A8 D3 3.0 TDI. Ebony Pearl Black (with little bits of other colours and glitter) |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
My point was probably misplaced in this post. I would agree you wouldn't want to re-flash anything with over voltage, however, for jumpstarting purposes, it is best to connect in series. The voltage regulator will handle it and as one battery is sub 12 you are not at 24v (but even at 24v no problem). The reality is ECUs etc very rarely get fried if at-all and is more of a theoretical based problem or in the fractional percentages.
Last edited by brasiliangringo; 19th February 2015 at 11:10 PM. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|