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D3 - Interior Electrics Airbags, Sensors, climate modules, instrument clusters, switches etc

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  #21  
Old 6th March 2014, 04:37 PM
PsYcHe PsYcHe is offline
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Quite a few old ones there.. I'd clear them all down and see what comes back as most look like the type of transient error you get from D3s..

Could be that the 'Car' button needs a repair, possible the button itself has failed.
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  #22  
Old 6th March 2014, 05:02 PM
A8L A8L is offline
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Thanks PsYcHe for the speedy response (loving this forum atm )

is that just a click 'Clear All DTCs' then run another autoscan and to see which ones return?
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  #23  
Old 6th March 2014, 05:17 PM
mannyo mannyo is offline
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Yes, hit the clear option wait a while and before doing another scan I would go for a short drive (if possible).
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  #24  
Old 6th March 2014, 05:32 PM
A8L A8L is offline
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Brilliant Mannyo Thanks! I'll go and do it now - any excuse to take the 8 for a spin

I'll post a new autoscan when I get back.
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  #25  
Old 6th March 2014, 10:40 PM
A8L A8L is offline
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well that cleared quite a few errors which can only be a good thing, plus I now know where the real issues are.

looking at the faults

07-Control Head -- Status: Malfunction 0010
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

looks like the MMI issue with the button?

and the handbrake hopefully just needs rear brake pads?

53-Parking Brake -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02428 - Left Parking Brake Motor (V282) Clamping Force Not Reached
02596 - Rear Brake Pads Worn

do you think a replacement MMI will resolve the 'car' button issue? I tested the button with vcds, I found a menu that let me see if each button responded to a press (with 1's and 0s) and the 'car' button was the only one that didn't respond when pressed, the zero didn't change to a 1 but all the other buttons did if that makes sense.

I was wondering if it could be as simple as a fuse - I believe there is a 5amp fuse is the passenger side fusebox area but if that went wouldn't that stop all buttons working rather than 1??

If I get the MMI off A8Parts will I need to do any recoding when I fit it or will it just work.

If I change the rear brake pads maybe the clamping force will be reached and the handbrake will start working again (wishful thinking!)

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File Type: doc vcds full scan 060314 1.doc (52.0 KB, 229 views)
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  #26  
Old 7th March 2014, 06:48 AM
mannyo mannyo is offline
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Your alarm horn is also dead, another common fault. I replaced mine as I had at least one of the faults you have on your alarm and have no more faults with mine. You may need to get this sorted as its a known cause of battery drain which could be why you had the low battery alerts in the earlier scan.

Your air suspension has an issue with the self test at startup failing, so something maybe amiss there.

For the MMI, how many times did you press the car button. The fault has occurred twice since you cleared the code, it does appear that the button is dead if the press is not being fully registered. Replacing is quiet straight forward, just make sure you get one with the correct options (for example the fingerprint start button).

The rear brakes could be a sticking motor, I have a brake pad low fault but with implausible signal but the parking brake works fine.
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2004 A4 1.8T Sport Cabriolet, 89K Miles
Past
2004 D3 A8 3.7 Quattro, Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Solar Sunroof, TV, ACC, phone and almost every option. 168K miles rising slowly
with retrofit AMI and DVB-T in place of Analogue
2003 Volvo S60 D5 SE Manual, 197K miles.
2001 D2 A8 3.7 QS, Bi-Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Electric Everything, retrofitted RNS-D, 191K Miles

Last edited by mannyo; 7th March 2014 at 06:51 AM.
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  #27  
Old 7th March 2014, 08:02 AM
audifin audifin is offline
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I would check first if the Car-button microswitch can be fixed, before shelling out £300+ for a replacement unit
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  #28  
Old 7th March 2014, 08:51 AM
PsYcHe PsYcHe is offline
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Won't be a fuse, it's definitely the panel.

Two options:

1 - Replace the panel

2 - Try and fix the panel itself, you may be able to swap the failed switch. If it doesn't work, then you're still at (1) above, but worth a shot.
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  #29  
Old 7th March 2014, 05:34 PM
A8L A8L is offline
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Thanks All.

OK 1st things 1st - the car button. I like the idea of fixing the car button microswitch - any more info on that? I have had the board off the back of the MMI and the little white car button on the board looks and operates the same as all the others, its had a general clean but that's as far as my knowledge goes with that, how would I try and fix it, are we talking soldering irons? it does seem a shame to replace it when all but 1 button works fine. I did press it quite a few times (in the hope!) but nada!!


The Horn Alarm. This is strange as the horn works fine, or appears to work fine, granted I haven't had one without an error so I guess its not fine!? Just had a quick Google for the alarm horn error, I thought it was the horn not the beep that you should hear when locking the car. How do I replace it, are they expensive, any links??? I thought it was the actual module 4E0 907 289 but surely not?

Air suspension - could this be the flat tyre being inflated every day? the suspension seems to be working but without the 'car' menu I cant even see what it is set to - I think its dynamic (guessing) The car does lower when I exit and lock up and the ride lowers on motorway runs and the green air suspension light comes on - is this another new module required 4E0 907 553 E ??


Park Brake - That's interesting Mannyo, rules out my theory then! when I engage the handbrake I can hear it 'whirrrring' for a while then click click click click for about 5 secs then its on! to release it I just get the whirring but only for 2 to 3 seconds then its off! - is there a way to fix a sticking motor or is it a new 4E0 907 801 oh and new rear brakes (how much are they btw) !!? whats the best course of action on this - I'd rather do what I can myself without going to the stealers!

Thanks a lot for the replies all
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  #30  
Old 7th March 2014, 06:00 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A8L View Post
I have removed the MMI module with help off here - very simple and took 15 mins to have the unit indoors.
I guess the first thing to try, if it's that easy to remove, is to see if there's anyone near you who's prepared to let you remove theirs and try swapping them over (temporarily) as a test?

I'd also look at it very carefully to see if there's an obvious way to dismantle to look at the switches.
Items like that will probably have some complex onboard electronics that interpret the buttons/dials and then send digital signals down the connector.

Switches usually have some sort of spring/return/contact mechanism behind them which may be something as simple as a bit of moulded silicone rubber. If this is damaged or dislodged it can stop it working even if the actual microswitch is OK.
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