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D2 - Common Faults Quick links to all known common faults and their solutions

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  #1  
Old 31st October 2021, 02:20 PM
strummagnet strummagnet is offline
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Default D2 2.8 No Start Issue

Car wont start!

In the 9 years I have had this car (on the road and off) it has never once had an issue starting, until today.

OK, wash time. Jumped in, Started fine for positioning in the driveway for washing. Floyd kicked in on the CD so happy days. Pre-wash, power wash and rinse, Snow foam (Bilt Hamber), 10-15 min soak, power wash off. All as usual.

Left for 30 mins, Jumped in. Started up. Re positioned in the driveway.

Whilst sat and idling and just before turning off, no Floyd, sound system off, battery warning on, airbag warning light on, ABS warning on, engine starts idling like a pig, electric windows moving but extremely slowly. HVAC still running although a bit haphazard. Hmmm water ingress!

Just about to turn off to investigate and the engine switched up to idle at approx 1200 rpm and running smooth, but no response to the peddle. Must be water

Turned off. Checked:

HVAC drain - Nope OK.
Checked passenger footwell, dry.
Checked below Botangs for any water seepage, none.
Relays and electrics in footwell all dry.
Checked battery (yes its a Yuasa) but came back healthy.
Checked engine and gearbox ECU, dry.

Tried starting up again and nothing

Not checked:
Fuses.
Junction box offside wheel area - could it be this? - Im in no inclination to be scrabbling under the car today.

Or any other suggestions please.
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  #2  
Old 31st October 2021, 04:02 PM
Ronin Ronin is offline
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it could be the alternator junction box under driver side front wheel arch yes.
whats the battery voltage whilst the engine is off?
whats the charging current with engine on?
how much fuel do you have?
does your alternator have a freewheel clutch? mine failed and spun bot ways freely not charging the car..

Last edited by Ronin; 31st October 2021 at 04:06 PM.
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  #3  
Old 31st October 2021, 05:05 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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It's natural to assume that your cleaning has triggered this and look for related areas of disturbance, but maybe not?

The symptoms while running sound very weird, beyond my pay grade to say what might cause that, but I'd go back to basics with a multimeter:

Check battery (you imply that seems OK) and the connections to it. Then move on the circuits that are live all the time and test voltages.
Brake lights spring to mind there - I'm pretty sure they're always live. Not sure about cigar lighters? Remote locking is one obviously, does that work?
Then measure other circuits, starting at the fuse boxes or under the front passengers feet.

Hopefully someone with a deeper understanding will be along soon to point you more precisely. Just not starting can have many causes.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #4  
Old 31st October 2021, 05:08 PM
strummagnet strummagnet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin View Post
it could be the alternator junction box under driver side front wheel arch yes.
whats the battery voltage whilst the engine is off?
whats the charging current with engine on?
how much fuel do you have?
does your alternator have a freewheel clutch? mine failed and spun bot ways freely not charging the car..
Engine off battery voltage 12.8v
Cannot measure charging voltage (engine not running)
Fuel level 70% full (always keep it over half when standing for long periods)
Not a clue about the alternator.

I have some time tomorrow, weather permitting, and will check junction box and alternator along with anything else I can glean.

I'm convinced I have stuffed the junction box when vigorously spraying with my jet wash or just hoping it's a quick fix.
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  #5  
Old 31st October 2021, 05:26 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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The junction box should be behind a cover, and even if that's missing you can't spray it directly with the wheel on. There is a 2-pin connector clipped to the side of the junction box which carries the starter solenoid and alternator field connections. If that is loose or corroded then that could cause a no-start / no-charge situation.

It does sound like a low voltage issue, and tbh I wouldn't trust the Yuasa as far as I can throw it. Their usual failure mode is to test just fine but be unable to supply decent current for starting. Does anything happen at all when you try to start it? Dimming dash lights etc? Its not uncommon for the F125 to prevent starting, but that wouldn't come with all the other symptoms.
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  #6  
Old 31st October 2021, 05:39 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
Its not uncommon for the F125 to prevent starting, but that wouldn't come with all the other symptoms.
Indeed, mine has that exact issue at present, bypassed by shorting out the starter relay . Everything all looks good and works fine but the starter does absolutely nothing and no lights dim either, it's as if you haven't turned the key.

I'd put the battery on charge overnight (if you can) and see how things are tomorrow.
__________________
2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #7  
Old 31st October 2021, 05:45 PM
strummagnet strummagnet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
The junction box should be behind a cover, and even if that's missing you can't spray it directly with the wheel on. There is a 2-pin connector clipped to the side of the junction box which carries the starter solenoid and alternator field connections. If that is loose or corroded then that could cause a no-start / no-charge situation.

It does sound like a low voltage issue, and tbh I wouldn't trust the Yuasa as far as I can throw it. Their usual failure mode is to test just fine but be unable to supply decent current for starting. Does anything happen at all when you try to start it? Dimming dash lights etc? Its not uncommon for the F125 to prevent starting, but that wouldn't come with all the other symptoms.
The F125 on this car is a new one and has been shifting fine replacing one that kept throwing it into limp mode. The one I gave you a while back

Just checked again and I think the battery has pooped itself. Good voltage but not enough cranking power, chattering starter and flashing dash lights.. but i will check the connections on the box first before i condemn it. I had a yuasa on my other D2 and that was only 3 years old and it just gave up.. Guess it's a Bosch going forward.
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  #8  
Old 31st October 2021, 09:02 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Varta and Bosch are the same batteries, but the label on the Varta appears to be £10 or so cheaper

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/g3/
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  #9  
Old 1st November 2021, 01:39 PM
strummagnet strummagnet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
Varta and Bosch are the same batteries, but the label on the Varta appears to be £10 or so cheaper

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/g3/
Ordered as a precautionary measure.
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Gosport UK
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Daily Driver: BMW 3 series GT - Just more practical for my camping trips!
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  #10  
Old 1st November 2021, 02:28 PM
strummagnet strummagnet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin View Post
oh noo I'm scared to think what the bill will be.. luckily its in for 'diagnostics' on the exhaust so we shall see. I'll keep this thread updated.
? wrong thread ?
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