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D3 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc.

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  #11  
Old 17th October 2017, 01:42 PM
Joe2.0E Joe2.0E is offline
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Thats a result, Well done.
I remember having to buy the complete ARB from Audi a few years back as they don't sell the bushings separately.
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  #12  
Old 17th October 2017, 07:00 PM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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As far as I know bushes are bonded to ARB on D3, that's why it's sold as complete ARB by Audi and not the bushes on their own. So not sure what you do with aftermarket bushes, do you glue them on ARB or just put them on and hope they will not slip?
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  #13  
Old 17th October 2017, 09:39 PM
lackovicj lackovicj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ainarssems View Post
As far as I know bushes are bonded to ARB on D3, that's why it's sold as complete ARB by Audi and not the bushes on their own. So not sure what you do with aftermarket bushes, do you glue them on ARB or just put them on and hope they will not slip?

If they glued.i will remove the old one. Then some DIY work to glue new bushing in the bracket if necessary . They should not slip as the bracket grove holds them in a place..
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  #14  
Old 17th October 2017, 10:56 PM
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Somerandomguy Somerandomguy is offline
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Ive just changed my ARB before winter starts as the creaking last year was very annoying. The bushes are bonded to bar, so the whole thing is needed to solve the noise. The bushes arent bonded to the brackets.

Ive seen reports of people changing bushes only but the noise comes back. Having said that it would be interesting to hear if self gluing works, but certainly on mine the bar was scored under the bush from bar movement, so didnt think glueing it would work.

FYI, I paid 160ish from TPS and dont forget you need to bolt in the ARB with the wheels in their normal running height to ovoid twisting the mounts far from their normal position leading to early failure.

I assume your engine code is t82, so your ARB should be 4e0411305ac (31*4.7) or if your VIN is after 4E-4-012 701 it will be 4e0411305ab (30.8*3.5)
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  #15  
Old 17th October 2017, 11:28 PM
lackovicj lackovicj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Somerandomguy View Post
Ive just changed my ARB before winter starts as the creaking last year was very annoying. The bushes are bonded to bar, so the whole thing is needed to solve the noise. The bushes arent bonded to the brackets.

Ive seen reports of people changing bushes only but the noise comes back. Having said that it would be interesting to hear if self gluing works, but certainly on mine the bar was scored under the bush from bar movement, so didnt think glueing it would work.

FYI, I paid 160ish from TPS and dont forget you need to bolt in the ARB with the wheels in their normal running height to ovoid twisting the mounts far from their normal position leading to early failure.

I assume your engine code is t82, so your ARB should be 4e0411305ac (31*4.7) or if your VIN is after 4E-4-012 701 it will be 4e0411305ab (30.8*3.5)
Hi thanks

Ordered 31mm/3.5 bushing. I would be interested how could you decode the vin as I lack at this. Here is my VIN please explain which numbers are crucial.
By etka the ARB is size 30.8/3.5
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  #16  
Old 18th October 2017, 08:19 AM
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Somerandomguy Somerandomguy is offline
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Ive always understood that when ETKA shows a VIN boundary, the dashes indicate any number/charcter- they are wildcards.

The format basically says
4e(model)-4(year)-012701(serial number)

So your VIN would be 4e-3-008348 which is lower than the boundary, so yours should be the 31*4.7 bar
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  #17  
Old 5th November 2017, 08:48 PM
lackovicj lackovicj is offline
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Job done..
31mm 3D printed PU bushing arrived on Thursday so I fit them on during the nice cold sunny day.
1. Loosened brackets to see what force and how difficult will be to put them back on
2. Undone L side first lubricated busing with provided grey lubricant
3. Put screw back on but not tight
4. Repeated step 2&3 with R side
5. Tightened both sides

PS: the OEM bushings were kinda stuck to the bracket but split into 2 parts as visible on the picture. The new bushings were cut on one side so I haven't glued them as they had nice deep groove to sit in. By tightening the bracket with 2 star (size 12) nuts on each side I was confident there is no need to be glued to the bracket as they sit nicely and have no chance to shift from the bracket groove. All my previous cars had split bushing even 2.5ton truck so I am not sure why audi came up with their own bushing patent to be a part of ARB.
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  #18  
Old 6th November 2017, 10:17 AM
Johnmed Johnmed is offline
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Interested to see how you get on with those long term OP, I thought that you HAD to replace the ARB too...
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  #19  
Old 16th July 2018, 08:17 AM
lackovicj lackovicj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnmed View Post
Interested to see how you get on with those long term OP, I thought that you HAD to replace the ARB too...
Yeah..Thats what i thought so but googling for the bushings I got so many results (sadly only 29mm) so it must be possible to replace on its own.. Got it printed and replaced them.. it saved me about 250 getting new ARB
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Previous : Chevrolet Blazer 2001 LT 4.3 petrol
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