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D2 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc.

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  #11  
Old 19th October 2018, 09:56 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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They aren't related electrically, but the ABS sensor cable assembly provides the wiring between the caliper and the car.



Most often its corrosion on the connectors of the pad wear connector. Cleaning them up with a tiny round file and tweaking them with a tiny screwdriver often helps. Ditto the body harness connector. A squirt of WD40 stops them corroding again.
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  #12  
Old 19th October 2018, 10:58 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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I thought the D2 was a very simple circuit back to the instruments.
Could be a fault there …..
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  #13  
Old 20th October 2018, 10:04 AM
lebesset lebesset is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
They aren't related electrically, but the ABS sensor cable assembly provides the wiring between the caliper and the car.



Most often its corrosion on the connectors of the pad wear connector. Cleaning them up with a tiny round file and tweaking them with a tiny screwdriver often helps. Ditto the body harness connector. A squirt of WD40 stops them corroding again.
wow ! I had no idea ! so in effect there is a there is a sub harness with the ABS and pad wear wires running through ; in case I can't cure the problem by cleaning up the pad wear connector where do I find the body harness connector to clean it up ?

if that doesn't work presumably our sponsors could find me a replacement sub harness !
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  #14  
Old 20th October 2018, 01:10 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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The body harness connector is behind the front portion of the wheel arch liner.

A8parts may have some sensors in stock but it can be a pretty unpleasant job to change them. Either they just come straight out, or they are seized in place and the bolt snaps in the hub. Tbh if it came to it, I'd hard-wire out the pad sensor before I changed an ABS sensor to cure a pad sensor issue.
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  #15  
Old 23rd October 2018, 02:29 PM
lebesset lebesset is offline
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well followed instructions as per MJ....spent more time getting out the wheel arch liners than fiddling with the wiring ; no joy

so short circuited each side in turn to get a circuit ; still no joy...I think the wiring colours are green and yellow one side black and yellow the other

have I misunderstood what you meant by hard wired mikki ? I tested the new pads for continuity on a belt and braces principle
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  #16  
Old 23rd October 2018, 03:05 PM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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Hardwire behind dash.
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  #17  
Old 23rd October 2018, 03:29 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lebesset View Post
so short circuited each side in turn to get a circuit ; still no joy...I think the wiring colours are green and yellow one side black and yellow the other
Did you do one side at a time? Its a single loop from the cluster so you need to short both sides at the same time to get the light out.
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  #18  
Old 24th October 2018, 06:26 PM
lebesset lebesset is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
Did you do one side at a time? Its a single loop from the cluster so you need to short both sides at the same time to get the light out.
tried that .....to no avail !

HOWEVER

last year I decided to have a go to get rid of the light using the method suggested by ainarrsems .read the sticky , in the end found the correct wire to short out but couldn't undo the multiplug to find the correct wire to earth on .... being nervous of doing the wrong thing I applied my usual methodology of ...if at first you don't succeed ...give up [ not an MOT failure last year ]
so this year with the MOT coming up started again [ force majeure ] and decided to try and find the fault and solve my problem
as you can see mikki has led me through the most likely problems , but to no avail , as stated

so , getting desperate I decide to have another go at the behind the instrument method , still couldn't open the multiplug , so scotchlocked a piece of thin stranded wire to the brown /black wire as stated in the sticky and earthed it to the chassis

VOILA
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  #19  
Old 17th March 2019, 04:56 PM
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rory_pamphilon rory_pamphilon is offline
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Following this post as I too have constant brake pad warning indicators on, have got quite used to it to be honest but if the MOT is going to start checking it I will have to do something about it.

Just out of curiousity, is the MOT going to test its function or just whether the warning light is on or not? i.e. if the light is off, is that an instant pass on that part or will they simulate a worn break pad check to see if the light functions ok?
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  #20  
Old 17th March 2019, 07:57 PM
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steamship steamship is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rory_pamphilon View Post
Following this post as I too have constant brake pad warning indicators on, have got quite used to it to be honest but if the MOT is going to start checking it I will have to do something about it.

Just out of curiousity, is the MOT going to test its function or just whether the warning light is on or not? i.e. if the light is off, is that an instant pass on that part or will they simulate a worn break pad check to see if the light functions ok?
I'm not so sure they would start testing this. After all, it is just an indicator warning that the pad is getting low, and with our brake pads, the warning comes on when there's about 50% of pad wear left. I had a similar problem after replacing my pads, and never got to the bottom of it. Ironically, when I started using the car (after it sat for 7 -8 months), the calipers were seizing, and I ended up cooking one of the pad wires. Now that the calipers are working, the indicator light isn't on permanently, so it's just not a snug connector somewhere.
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