3.7 40V starts, then stops.

[Trophy885]

Dear A8 gurus,
I have a 2000 3.7 V8 40 valve, which will crank, start, and then stops.
Coupled with this, the instrument cluster does not light up, and none of the gauges work.
Does anyone have any ideas?
The car has covered 80K miles, had a new battery (Bosch) in May '10, as the car only gets used occasionally, I wanted to "make sure" it would always start!!
Best Regards, and many Thanks.
Steve

[Conan_the_Librarian]

Steve,

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like an immobiliser issue to me. I'm not an expert on the FL D2 immobiliser, but the instrument, ECU and keys are all matched and you have classic immobilisor symptoms there. Someone will be along shortly.

[PsYcHe]

Try moving the steering column in or out by a bit and see if it makes a difference.

[ainarssems]

Immobiliser is built into the instrument panel which apparently is not working correctly so engine cuts out. Check the fuses and connections( short/open) to the instrument cluster. Disconnect battery for a while ( at least 15 min I would say) and see if that makes a difference after reconnecting. If the instrument cluster has gone bad You will need to replace it and have the immobiliser recoded which only few places can do apart from dealers. If You get a second hand instrument cluster with original key You can use Your key blade on that key and will only need to pair ECU with immo which is pretty simple and DIY if You have diagnostics cable.

[Mr K]

Have you got a spare key you can try?

My spare key will unlock the cars, and start the engine but won't disable the immobiliser - so it starts and runs for a second then dies. I have no idea why it does this, but it could be you key that is at fault.

EDIT: just to add to that, my other key works fine. I need to get this sorted, will probably start by checking the key batteries (although they are new and it unlocks the car remotely OK) and then have a look at removing some of the steering column.

[ainarssems]

Mr K

Battery in the key is for remote only. Transponder for immo works without battery. It gets power wireless from sender/receiver unit in the car.

Your other key does not work because it is either not coded into immo, is faulty or have a weaker signal and poor connection causing weaker signal not being read properly.

[Mr K]

Originally Posted by ainarssems

Mr K

Battery in the key is for remote only. Transponder for immo works without battery. It gets power wireless from sender/receiver unit in the car.

Your other key does not work because it is either not coded into immo, is faulty or have a weaker signal and poor connection causing weaker signal not being read properly.

I had thought that the battery in the key might not be anything to do with the immo as the funny little plastic emergnecy key obviously has no power in it, and still works.

Thanks for the advice, i will have a play when the weather warms up. Any ideas where to start trying to fix it? Im guessing the immobiliser / cluster should be the first point of call? where is the transmitter/receiver, is that in the column?

Many thanks.

[ainarssems]

I would start by getting fault codes and this thread http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...rereplace.html

But in Trophy885's case problem most likely is in the instrument cluster

[Mr K]

Thanks for that! I assume the problem effects FL too? As i said, I will wait for the weather to warm up before I do it, my other key words fine and hasn't let me down yet.

[Trophy885]

Gentlefolk,
many thanks for your thoughts and advice!
As soon as the white stuff lifts from the highways, I'll disconnect the battery, I have sort of tried this, (disconnect, charge, reconnect, and normally the beast normally runs)
Can anyone tell me how common the instrument cluster failing is?
Many thanks again guys.
Best Regards,
Steve