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  #101  
Old 28th March 2021, 03:47 PM
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RICKY D RICKY D is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steamship View Post
Quite appropriate stamp on the crank pulleys.
Great spot
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  #102  
Old 28th March 2021, 08:48 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Good spot Sean

Did the drive plate bolts and the starter this morning



New spark plugs



Not sure if I've shown this tensioner trick before. The V8 tensioner is only available as a complete unit for £80-100 depending on brand, but the tensioner part itself is always fine. Its only ever the roller which wears out.



So, remove the roller



and acquire one from a Hyundai 2.7 Febi number in the pic - INA make one too. If you're going to do this, make sure you get a good quality one which comes with a new bolt and washers since we need one washer.



The Hyundai roller doesn't have the moulding to take the plastic cap from the original roller - instead it has this washer which goes under the bolt head. The washer has a 10mm hole though, and we need a 12mm hole...



Embiggen the hole with the step drill. Don't try and do this with a twist drill as it will grab and spin the washer. A step drill is much better for thin stuff.



Attach the new roller with the modified washer and original bolt



Back on the engine and running smooth again but for £22 instead of £80.



The clips for the header tank hose have dug in to the rubber.



I don't have any spares of this hose as its a very common problem. The hose isn't split though, so the area is protected with heatshrink sleeve.



Wiring harness back in place



The subframe is pretty grim!





Elbow Grease and the pressure washer mades short work of cleaning it



I stopped early for the Formula 1 so the engine and gearbox will go back on the subframe tomorrow, then after cleaning the engine bay it can all go back in
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  #103  
Old 29th March 2021, 03:27 PM
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homer simpson homer simpson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
I stopped early for the Formula 1 so the engine and gearbox will go back on the subframe tomorrow, then after cleaning the engine bay it can all go back in
Don't blame you, what a race!
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  #104  
Old 29th March 2021, 10:17 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Cleaned the engine bay, cleared out the scuttle panel and drains etc.





Hard to capture matt dark green with my phone camera, but its nice and tidy now and ready for the engine to go back in tomorrow.
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  #105  
Old 29th March 2021, 10:35 PM
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RICKY D RICKY D is offline
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It’s such a difficult colour to capture without direct sunlight. It can go from a very obvious green with flecks in it, to a matt looking green to pretty much black at night.

I’ve seen inside the bay enough times to be able to see it’s far cleaner now than it’s ever been in my ownership
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2002 S8 - Irish Green Pearl. Cat N (saved by the D2 Doctor )

1988 E30 Coupe - Royalblau Metallic

2003 S4 Avant - Light Silver Mettalic

2016 S5 Coupe Black Edition - Ibis White

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  #106  
Old 6th April 2021, 10:02 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Apologies all, for the lack of updates. I have a habit of pressing 'preview' instead of 'submit' which, followed by a few late nights to finish the car off meant I got a bit behind

Clean gearbox mounts probably don't make the car run any better, but they do make it nicer to work on



Exhaust manifold bolts replaced with stainless



Engine back in



The subframe locating pins mean that I haven't lost any of the front wheel alignment which was done in phase 1 of the project, as I set the subframe with these before that was done.



The right hand cam belt cover was cracked and I don't have a spare so this was repaired with specialist adhesive. These covers are nylon which is very difficult to glue as it has low surface energy so traditional adhesives don't stick to it.



This was a bit of an April Fool's trick on me! I spent a good 5 minutes trying to work out why the intake tube wouldn't sit right before I discovered it was previously on backwards Speaking to Ricky later it turns out he did this while replacing something else, and tbf if you're not that familiar with this area its an easy mistake to make since the ends of the tube are in the same place regardless of which way round it goes.



The coolant breather hose was repaired with a brass tee piece. I might do them all like this tbh as this is much more robust than 20 year old plastic.



New front snub mount in place. This one originally had two 2mm shims under the bracket, but needed my last 1.5mm shim to sit flush with the new mount. I'll need to get some new ones laser cut for future projects.



This single picture represents a full day's work! This is a new radiator attached to a replacement front panel, with the headlight surrounds, fan, and other paraphenalia rescued from the original panel which is a lot more work than it sounds. I've used modified aftermarket rubber mountings for the radiator itself as the originals are NLA. I also straightened out the undertray brackets and fitted new rivnuts to the panel as they always take a beating even on stock ride height.



Home stretch now - all the engine bay back together ready for the the front panel



Front panel in place and ready for its first start and warm-up



Up to temperature and you can see the cam phasing on the lower right - zero degrees deviation between banks 1 and 2 relative to the crank This is what you get by setting the belt properly with the locking tools. I've seen them 6 degrees out when people have bodged the belt swap using just paint marks Note the duty cycle of both cam adjusters of 20.3% - the ECU is pretty happy with this configuration



This is the witness mark in the bottom of the bumper from the event which killed the front panel. This lines up exactly with the thread on the lower radiator mount, and there is a corresponding ding on the inside.



All back together and looking smart



The final job was a brake fluid swap - as you can see, its a little past it's best! It should be changed every 2 years, but they are pretty much all in this state the first time I see them. I think most garages are wary of touching the braking system on the D2s, and with the Brembo calipers tbh its not that surprising since if you don't regularly exercise the bleed nipples they seize solid in the calipers and then you need a caliper refurb to change the brake fluid Luckily Ricky's are in excellent condition so the fluid swap was pretty simple.



Before:



After flushing 250ml through each caliper



Just back from a most enjoyable road test The exhaust note is addictive!



and thats it! The Green Beast is safely home and on her original (now repaired) wheels, and back to waking up the neighbours
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  #107  
Old 6th April 2021, 10:48 PM
Ronin Ronin is offline
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excellent work as always shame about those center caps missing
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  #108  
Old 6th April 2021, 11:00 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin View Post
shame about those center caps missing
But are they?
I always take mine off my cars before I send them for any work, though going to MJ that might be considered an insult.....

Last time I looked those FL caps were readily available anyway.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #109  
Old 6th April 2021, 11:13 PM
gninnam gninnam is offline
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Brilliant work (as usual) and the engine bay looks almost like new
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Peugeot 207 (the sons)

Triumph Daytona 675 (2017 reg)

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Gone but not forgotten

Ford Focus ST-2 Mk3 (the wifes) (stolen Oct 2023)

1972 T2 Bay Window Camper (Slow)

Audi TT Mk1 225 - now with coil-overs and a 7inch touchscreen infotainment centre

2003 A8 Sport 4.2 (with ACC & LPG) (Feed up with all the issues so passed it on to a forum member)

2000 A8 FL QS 4.2 (with RNS-E - Nice) (Engine poorly so sold on to be brought back by someone who has the time)
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  #110  
Old 6th April 2021, 11:27 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin View Post
excellent work as always shame about those center caps missing
I knew someone would pick up on that Of course I put them on before I took it home
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