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  #1  
Old 20th April 2018, 10:55 AM
JulianHicks JulianHicks is offline
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Default Help with boot lock problems ...

I'd be grateful if someone could explain how the A8's boot lock works so I can try and diagnose a fault.

As of yesterday, when I shut the boot I no longer hear the 'clunk' as the lock operates so I guess something's wrong.

I have the motored version; if I push the button, the boot closes and then reopens.

If I manually close the boot, it stays shut [thankfully] but I get the warning on the DIS that the boot is open.

Thanks - Julian
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Old 20th April 2018, 11:27 AM
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Mine had the pull-down (soft close) motor fail on it and did that - did it have that on yours? could be the soft close motor itself or the cable running to it (this is different to the actual boot open/close motor)
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Old 20th April 2018, 06:02 PM
JulianHicks JulianHicks is offline
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Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by the soft close motor.

The boot motor and cable that open and shut the boot are fine; my problem is that when the lock mechanism in the boot door comes down to meet the locking plate, there's no longer a motorised 'clunk' as the lock 'wraps around' the locking plate pin.

I'm hoping that someone can tell me what triggers the motor activation and what could have failed on my car.

Thanks & Regards - Julian
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Old 20th April 2018, 08:19 PM
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I think there's a micro switch in the latch part of the lock (your first picture). I had the same problem and sprayed copious amounts of WD40 in and it's worked ever since
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Old 20th April 2018, 09:20 PM
JulianHicks JulianHicks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47p2 View Post
I think there's a micro switch in the latch part of the lock (your first picture). I had the same problem and sprayed copious amounts of WD40 in and it's worked ever since
Thanks for that suggestion; will have a look in the morning.

Julian
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Old 22nd April 2018, 03:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JulianHicks View Post
Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by the soft close motor.

The boot motor and cable that open and shut the boot are fine; my problem is that when the lock mechanism in the boot door comes down to meet the locking plate, there's no longer a motorised 'clunk' as the lock 'wraps around' the locking plate pin.

I'm hoping that someone can tell me what triggers the motor activation and what could have failed on my car.

Thanks & Regards - Julian
Its called "Power Latching System" by Audi and has a bowden cable going to a small motor - see pictures attached.
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Audi A8 D2 3.7 Quattro Sport 1999 FL - Melange
2nd Place Winner - A8-Freunde Annual German Meet 2012 at Edersee
20" x 9" Bentley GTC Wheels with 385mm W12 Front Discs & Bentley Caliper Covers, Front Lowered on Coilovers, Xenons, Combined DRLs and LED Foglights to modified OEM front fog lamp position, Alcantara/Leather, Full Black Alcantara headlining + pillars and blind shelf, Bespoke Flat Bottomed Sports Steering Wheel, Dark Myrtle Wood, Autodim Mirrors, Bose, Blinds, Digital TV, Ski Hatch, Modified rear exhaust section for extra V8 Burble
Audi S8 D2 Final Edition 2002, Avus Silver with Red Leather Interior
Tiptronic with Sport mode button, Sony rear entertainment package, Bose sound system, Audi Navigation Plus, 20 inch Final Edition alloys, Full Cat Back Stainless Milltek exhaust, giving a great V8 burble
Audi A8L D2 4.2 Petrol with LPG - Ebony Black
Audi A8L D4 FL 4.0T Petrol twin turbo - Havana Black
Audi A2 1.6 FSi Sport - Dolphin Grey with Votex body kit and Red Leather Interior
and some other A8's A8L's and Mercs
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  #7  
Old 22nd April 2018, 09:40 AM
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Julian,
There are two motors involved.
The one that Neil has pointed out is on all cars and is the one that locks the boot.
The other motor is the optional one that powers the boot lid up and down. This is for idle folk like me.
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Old 23rd April 2018, 07:40 PM
JulianHicks JulianHicks is offline
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So I've only just read the updates to this thread as I forgot I was going away for the weekend

It's my locking mechanism that's not working; I've just had a look and I still can't work out what's going on when the 'black box' on the boot lid comes down and fits into the slot with the pin in it

[Although I do now realise there's some sort of cable that gets pulled somehow from a motor in the boot thanks to the diagrams above].

But I presume:
a) the 'trigger' for the process is the boot coming down and the 'hook' in the boot lid box triggers the motor that
b) gets the motor to pull
c) the cable that's attached to the pin in slot.

So I guess the problem could be in any of these parts? Does VCDS have tests I can run to see which bit may not be working?

thanks - Julian

PS Just realised that I've had a few DTCs in my VCDS scans in the last six months but couldn't work out what part that was.

Code:
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels:. 4E0-910-289.lbl
   Part No SW: 4E0 910 289 A    HW: 4E0 907 289 
   Component: Komfortgeraet   H04 0040  
   Revision: 00400004    Serial number:  W040411110043
   Coding: 0000249
   Shop #: WSC 02313 785 00200
   VCID: 275D9CFD963CD57EF0-8072

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 4E0 910 853 
   Component: Heckdeckel   P14H06 0070

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 4E0 907 719 
   Component: Neigungssensor  H03 0020

1 Fault Found:
00892 - Switch for Trunk Closing Cylinder (F248) 
            007 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100111
                    Fault Priority: 3
                    Fault Frequency: 9
                    Reset counter: 25
                    Mileage: 373302 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2017.11.02
                    Time: 09:22:08
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  #9  
Old 23rd April 2018, 09:26 PM
paulrstaylor paulrstaylor is offline
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Can you not trigger the lock using the side of a large screw driver? Does it latch? Does the striker plate move down an inch or so?
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  #10  
Old 23rd April 2018, 09:40 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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I know I have a D2 not a D3, but I've replaced my boot latch more than once due to (in my case) mostly microswitch problems (also broken nylon internals).

I certainly used the shaft of a screwdriver for testing locking and unlocking with the lid open, very useful trick.

I don't know if the D3 latch is physically the same, but if it is swapping the microswitch is pretty easy and I have a couple of spare ones if it's the same.
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Last edited by HPsauce; 23rd April 2018 at 09:45 PM.
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